Book J2l£L 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



The Southern Cookbook 



A MANUAL OF COOKING 
AND LIST OF MENUS 



INCLUDING 

RECIPES USED BY NOTED COLORED COOKS 
A*:D PROMINENT CATERERS 



BY 

S. THOMAS B1VINS 

Principal Chester Domestic Training Institute, 
Chester, Penna. 



Press of the Hampton Institute 
Hampton, Virginia 
1912 




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 19*2, by 

S. Thomas Rivins, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington 



CCLA328293 

2^ ) k 



/ 



PREFACE 

r pHE writer of this book has one object in view in prepar- 
ing and sending out to the world the treatise here pub- 
lished. He has labored at the same time to produce a manual 
which the family 1 and hotel proprietors can take in hand with a 
certainty of finding directions and assistance in most of the 
doubts and perplexities which beset their daily life : a book to 
aid in choosing choice dishes and delicacies for private and 
public functions and to guide them in the selection of such 
dishes &s will be mosi des Le — a book which, if studied and 
followed, v er them sagacious, able, well informed, 

ready, nd a .omplished in whatever makes the table 

and the fountain of purest delight. 

n indebted to and beg to thank Miss Wain, 
, Pa., for valuable assistance rendered in connection 
with -reparation of this publication. 

S. Thomas Bivins 




i 



INTRODUCTION 



In no country in the world are there so many well-to-do 
people as in the United States, or so many who own comfort- 
able and even beautiful homes, and on every hand we hear the 
call for trained servants for those homes. The home, with all 
of its endearing associations, as father, mother, brother, and 
sister, is more affected by the domestic service carried on 
within than by all other agencies and influences combined. It 
is said that the mother who rocks the cradle controls the 
nation, but the domestic who faithfully and intelligently serves 
her who rocks the cradle is, in fact, the real ruler. The schools 
of domestic science of the country have done much and are 
increasing their efforts to diffuse the needed knowledge. 

Domestic service consists not simply in going the rounds 
i (I tb humdrum duties of the house, but in scientifi- 
caiij £ijoking : the food : in creating new dishes and in having 
a thorough knowledge of the family, the peculiar tastes, habits 
and dispositions of each member so as to be able to meet all of 
their peculiar wants and circumstances. Such service would 
be indispensable to any family. 

Domestics in former days have played a large and impor- 
tant part indeveloping the art of cooking in many homes of 
our country, which made it less desirable for rich families to 
live in hotels so as to escape the annoyance and responsibility 
of inefficient servants. 

While thus supplying this manual for knowledge in a con- 
cise and practical way has been the central idea in the con- 
struction of this book, the instruction in the principal recipes 
with care, grouping and arrangement, underlying successful 
work for the home. 

In presenting this book to the public it is with the view of 
supplying the knowledge so much needed and sought for in a 
practical, condensed way, that shall give to the home greater 
comfort ; and the author hopes that after more than twenty 
years of experience and investigation he may be able to fill in 
a measure this long felt want. 

Many imperfections will, no doubt, be found in the work, 
for which kind indulgences and friendly criticism is asked, that 
such imperfections may be remedied in a revised edition at an 
early date. 



r 

■9* 



RECIPES 



Turkey, to Bone 

Select two young turkeys, the one that is to be boned 
should be a plump well fed bird, a gobler pref ered. Great caution 
should be observed that the skin is perfect as this is important 
in dissecting ; then when the carcas is removed ready for fill- 
ing, the second turkey's flesh should be prepared, by first re- 
moving the skin; cut large slices of the white portion which 
will be used as layers for filling, then boil the remaining part 
of the turkey in a clean pot to get the essence for making 
stuffing. 

Make stuffing — three pounds of best pork sausage, one 
half bound larded pork, one half pound of Virginia ham, truf- 
fles. ^London thyme, pepper, salt, a little onion, pound of but- 
ter, mix these ingredients well together, fill the turkey, using 
the parts sliced from the second turkey as layers between the 
stuffing. Sew the pocket and lace the body of turkey with white 
cord and sew it up in cheesecloth, put it in a cooking pot and 
cook for two hours and a half ; when done, remove the cloth 
and brown it in a quick oven,use white paper to prevent scorch- 
ing, make a brown truffle sauce for serving. 

Garnish the dish with toast and ornamental forks for the 
purpose. 

Capon, to Bone 

Select a plump young capon, and an ordinary chicken to 
be used as layers and prepare it the same as for turkey. 
Make a white sauce. 
See directions for sauces. 

Chicken Salad 

Chicken for salad should be well cooked until tender, and 
allowed to be cold before the meat is removed from the bones. 
Strip the meat off very carefully in large pieces, use the white 
and dark meat together, cut in small square quarter-inch 
blocks, then have the celery washed clean, only using the 



8 



The Southern Cookbook 



white portion, cut celery in blocks the same size as the chicken 
meat is cut, let celery be perfectly dry before mixing — to every 
pint of chicken meat use the same quantity of celery. Make 
dressing by using the best olive oil, yellow part of eggs, mus- 
tard, cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, or vinegar, then mix 
the chicken and celery together with the dressing. 
Decorate the dish with lettuce before serving. 

Salmon Fish 

For public functions select a large salmon, clean well, let 
the head remain, wrap the fish in cheese-cloth before boiling- 
when cooked remove the skin, use mayonnaise dressing made 
as for chicken and lobster salad. Cover the fish with the dress- 
ing all but its head, peel and cut lemon very thin in the s 
of fish scales and place them representing real scales 
rate dish with lettuce. Put a piece in the fish's mouth when 
served. 

Lobster Salad 

Select fresh live lobsters, boil in a large pot in plenty of 
water to cover them while cooking, let them be perfectly cold, 
remove the insides with great care ; before picking the meat, 
particular care should be observed that no hard substances as 
fins and shell remain in the meat. Pick them in as large pieces 
as possible, then cut in small blocks, make dressing as for 
chicken salad, decorate with the lobster shell with head and 
legs attached. Before serving lettuce may also be used in 
garnishing. 

Turkey, to Boil 

Make stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
lemon-peel, a few oysters or an anchovy, a bit of butter, some 
suet, and an egg. Put this in the crop, and fasten up the skin, 
and boil the turkey in a floured cloth, to make it very white. 
Have ready a fine ovster sauce, made rich with butter, a little 
cream, a spoonful of soy, if approved, and pour over the bird ; 
or, liver and lemon sauce. 

Hen birds are best for boiling, and should be young. 



The Son the mi Cookbook 



9 



Turkey to Roast 

The sinews of the legs should be drawn, which ever way 
it is to be dressed. The head should be twisted under the 
wing ; and in drawing, care should be taken not to tear the 
liver, or let the gall touch it. Put a stuffing of sausage meat ; 
or, if sausages are to be served in the dish, a bread stuffing. 
As this makes a large addition to the size of the bird, observe 
that the heat of the fire be constantly to that part, for the 
breast is frequently not done enough. A little strip of paper 
should be put on the bone to prevent scorching, while the 
other parts roast. Baste well, and froth it up. Gravy in the 
dish, and plenty of bread sauce, in a sauce tureen. 

Pulled Turkey 

Divide tb° " eat of the breast by pulling instead of cutting; 
then warr it ... i spoonful or two of white gravy, a little 
cream, grated nutmeg, salt, and a little flour and butter : warm, 
but do not boil it. The leg seasoned, scored, and broiled, put 
' the dish, with the above around it. Cold chicken does as 
well. 

Turkey Patties 

Mince some of the white parts, and with grated lemon, 
nutmeg, salt, a very little pepper, cream, and a very little bit 
of butter warmed. Fill the patties : they having first been 
baked with a bit of bread in each, to keep them hollow. 

Pheasants and Partridges 

Roast as turkey, and serve with a fine gravy in which 
put the smallest bit of garlic, and bread sauce. When cold, 
they may be made into excellent patties, but their flavor should 
not be overpowered by lemon. 



10 



The Southern Cookbook 



Potted Partridge 

When nicely cleaned, season with the following, in finest 
powder : mace, Jamaica pepper, white pepper and salt. Rub 
every part well ; then lay the breasts downward in a pan, and 
pack the birds as close as you possibly can. Put a good deal 
of butter on them; then cover the pan with a coarse flour paste, 
and pepper over : tie close and bake. When cold, put into 
pots, and cover with butter. 

To Dress Terrapin 

One quart of terrapin. 

Select one large Count terrapin, scald and take skin off, 
then boil until the terrapin becomes soft in the legs, then open, 
and pick the meat, remove carefully the gall bag, take four 
hard-boiled eggs, quarter pound of butter, tablespoonful of 
flour, quarter pint of cream, scald, mix well together, use dry 
Madeira wine and brandy according to taste. 

For Chicken Croquettes 

To make one dozen croquettes. 

Select three and one half pounds of chicken and boil well 
done, take the meat and chop very fine, use one pint of flour, 
two raw eggs, parsley, salt and pepper. 

Lobster a la Newburg 

Four pounds of lobster, three boiled eggs, quarter pound 
of butter, one and one half tablespoonfuls of flour, one pint of 
cream, and wine according to taste. 

A Very Economical Way of Potting Birds 

Prepare as above. When baked, and become cold, cut 
them in proper pieces for helping, and pack them close into a 
large potting pot k and leave, if possible, no space to receive 
the butter ; with which cover them, and one-third less will be 
requisite than when done whole. 

To Clarify Butter for Potted Things 

Put it in a sauceboat, and set that in a stewpan that has 
a little water in, over the fire. When melted, observe not to 
pour the milky parts over the potted things, they will sink to 
the bottom. 



FOWLS 



Boiled with oysters, lemon, parsley, and butter, or liver 
sauce ; or with bacon and greens. 

Fowl, Roasted 

Egg sauce, bread sauce, or garnished with sausages 
scalded, and parsley. 

A large barndoor fowl well hung, stuffed in the crop with 
sausage meat, and gravy in the dish, and with bread sauce. 

The head should be turned under the wing. 

Fowl split down the back, peppered, salted, and broiled, 
rve it with mushroom sauce. 

To Boil Fowl with Rice 

Stew the fowl very slowly, in some clear mutton broth, 
well skimmed, and seasoned with onion, mace, pepper, and salt. 
About half an hour before it is ready, put in a quarter of a 
pint of rice, well washed and soaked. Simmer till tender; 
then strain from the broth, and put the rice on a sieve before 
the fire. Keep the fowl hot ; lay it in the middle of the dish, 
and the rice round it, without the broth ; which will be very 
nice to eat as such ; but the less liquor it is done with the bet- 
ter. 

Fricassee of Chicken 

Boil them rather more than half in a small quantity of 
water : let them cool ; then cut them up, and put them to sim- 
mer in a little gravy, made of the liquor they were boiled in, 
and a bit of veal or mutton, onion, mace, lemon-peel, white 
pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. When quite tender, keep 
them hot while you thicken the sauce thus : strain off, and put 
it back into the saucepan, with a little salt, a scrape of nutmeg, 
a bit of flour and butter : give it one boil ; and when you are 
going to serve, beat the yolk of an egg, and half a pint of 
cream, it will be equally as good without the egg, and stir them 
over the fire,but do not let boil. 



12 



The So at J tern Cookbook 



Another White Sauce More Easily Made 

Take a little of the water that boiled the fowls, ( which 
must be kept hot) and stew with it some cut onion, a bit of 
parsley, a blade of mace, and a bit of lemon-peel. Mix with 
this a bit of butter, flour, and a little thick cream, and adding 
the chicken, warm it with the sauce. 

The above for veal or rabbit ; but if either are not suffi- 
ciently done before, then the cream and flour should be added 
just before serving, after the meat is a little stewed. 

Davenport Fowls 

Hang young fowls a night : take the livers, hearts and 
tenderest parts of the gizzard, shred very small, with half a 
handful of young celery, an anchovy to each fowl, one onion, 
and the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, with pepper, salt, and 
mace to your taste. Stuff the fowls with this, and sew up the 
vents and neck quite close, that the water may not get in. 
Boil them in salt and water till near done ; then drain, and 
put them into a stevvpan, with butter enough to brown them. 
Then serve with fine melted butter, and a spoonful of catsup, 
of either sort, in the dish. 

To Pull Chicken 

Take off the skin, and pull the flesh off the bones of a 
cold fowl, in as large pieces as you can. Dredge with flour, 
and fry to a nice brown in butter ; which drain from it and 
simmer in a good gravy, well seasoned, and thickened with a 
little flour and butter. Add the juice of a lemon. 

Chicken Pie 

Cut up two young fowls ; season with white pepper, salt, 
a little mace, and nutmeg, all in the finest powder ; likewise a 
little cayenne. Put the chicken, slices of ham, gammon, force- 
meat, and hard eggs alternately. If to be in a dish, put a little 
water ; if raised crust, none. Against the pie be baked, have 
ready a gravy of knuckles of veal, with a few shank bones, 
seasoned with herbs, onions, mace, and pepper. If in a dish, 
put in as much gravy as will fill it ; if in crust, let it go cold ; 
then open the lid and put in the jelly. v 



The Southern Cookbook 



13 



The Forcemeat for Pie of Fowls of Any Kind 

Pound fine cold chicken, or veal, a bit of fat bacon, some 
grated ham, crumbs of bread, a very little bit of onion, parsley, 
knotted marjoram, and a very small bit of tarragon chopped 
fine ; a blade of mace, a little, nutmeg, white pepper, and salt, 
in finest powder. When well mixed, add egg to make balls. 

Chicken Curry 

Cut up the chickens before they are dressed, and fry them 
in butter, with sliced onions, till of a fine color : or if you use 
those that have been dressed, do not fry them : lay the joints, 
cut in two or three pieces each, into a stewpan, with veal or 
mutton gravy, a clove or two of garlic, four large spoonfuls 
of curry powder, with a little flour, and a bit of butter, and 
add twenty minutes before you serve ; stewing it on till ready.' 
A little juice of lemon should be squeezed in when serving. 

Slices of rare-done veal, rabbit, or turkey, make a good 
curry. 

A dish of rice boiled plain, as hereafter directed, must be 
always served to eat with curry. 

Another Curry More Quickly Made 

Cut up a chicken or a young rabbit ; if the former take 
off the skin, and rub each piece in a large spoonful of flour, 
mixed with half an ounce of curry powder : slice two or three 
onions, and fry in butter, of a fine light brown ; then add the 
meat, and fry all together, until the latter begins to brown ; 
then put into a stewpan, and pour boiling water over to cover. 
Let it simmer very gently two or three hours until quite ten- 
der. If too thick, put more water half an hour before it 
is served. 

Dressed fowl or meat may be done ; but the curry will be 
better made of fresh. 

Grouse 

Are to be roasted like fowls ; but their heads twisted un- 
der the wing, and served with gravy, and bread sauce, or with 
sauce for wild fowl. See sauces. 



The Southern Cookbook 



To Pot Grouse, or Moor Game 

Pick, singe, and wash them very clean ; then rub them 
inside and out with a high seasoning of salt, pepper, mace, nut- 
meg, and allspice. Lay them in as small a pot as will hold 
them : cover them with butter, and bake them in a slow oven. 
When cold, take off the butter, move the birds from the gravy, 
dry, and put them into pots that will just fit one or two ; the 
former where there are not many. Melt the former butter 
with some more, so as to completely cover the birds : but take 
care not to oil it. Do not let it be too hot. 

To Roast Widgeon, Duck, Teal, or Moor Hen 

The flavor is best approved without stuffing ; but put 
some pepper, salt, and a bit of butter in the birds. Wild fowl 
require to be much less done than tame, and to be served of a 
fine color. 

The basting ordered in the foregoing recipe takes off a 
fishy taste which wild birds sometimes have. Send up a very 
good gravy in the dish ; and on cutting the breast, half a 
lemon squeezed over, with pepper on it, improves the taste. 

Or stuff them with crumbs, a little shred onion, sage, 
pepper, and salt, but not a large quantity, and add a bit of 
butter. Slice an onion, and put into the dripping-pan, with a 
little salt, and baste the fowls with it till three parts done ; 
then remove that, and baste with butter. They should come 
up finely frothed, and not overdone. 

An excellent sauce under that article. 

Duck, to Boil 

Choose a fine fat duck, salt it two days, boil it slowly, and 
cover it with onion sauce made very white, and the butter 
melted with milk instead of water. 

The roast duck ; stuff or not, and serve with gravy. 



The Southern Cookbook 



Duck Pie 

Bone a full grown young duck, and fine young fowl of a 
good size. Season them both well with mace, pepper, salt 
and allspice. Put the fowl within the duck, a calf's tongue 
that has been pickled red, and boiled, within the fowl. Make 
the whole lie close. The skin of the legs and wings should be 
drawn inwards, that the body may lie smooth. Put the birds 
into a raised pie, or small pie-dish, and cover it with a thick- 
ish paste. Bake in a slow oven to eat cold. 

The old Staffordshire raised pies were made as above, 
but a turkey must cover the duck, and a goose over that, form- 
ing a very large pie. 

Goose, to Roast 

After being carefully picked, the plungs of the feathers 
pulled out, and the hairs singed, let it be well washed, dried, 
and seasoned with onion, sage, pepper, and salt ; fasten it tight, 
at the neck and vent, and roast it. 

When half done, let a narrow strip of paper be skewed on 
the breastbone. Baste it well, and observe to take it up the 
moment it is done, nicely frothed. When the breast rises, 
take off the paper, and observe to serve it before it falls, or it 
will be spoiled, and come to the table flattened. Before it is 
cut up, cut the apron off, and pour in wine glass of port wine 
and a teaspoonful of mustard. Cut the breast from one pinion 
to the other if for a large party, without leaving meat to the 
wingbone. 

Gravy, and apple sauce. 

Green Goose Pie 

Bone two green geese, having first removed every plug, 
and singed them nicely. W r ash them clean ; season high with 
salt, mace, pepper, and pimento : put one within the other, 
and press them close in your pie-dish ; put a good deal of but- 
ter over them, and bake with or without a crust : if the latter, 
a cover that will keep the steam in, must supply the place of a 
crust. It will keep long. 



i6 



The Southern Cookbook 



Giblet Pie 

Stew duck or goose giblets, when nicely cleaned, with 
onion, black pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs, till tender. 
Let them become cold ; then put them in the dish with two 
or three steaks of veal, beef, or mutton, especially if there are 
not giblets enough to make the size pie that you wish. A 
little cup of cream, put in when baked, is a great improvement. 
Put the liquor in first. 

Stewed Giblets 

As above, and add a little butter and flour. Serve with 
sippets, and cream just scalded in the sauce. 

Stewed Pigeons 

Let them be fresh, and carefully cropped, drawn, and 
washed, then let them soak half an hour : in the mean time 
cut a hard white cabbage into water in slices as for pickling ; 
drain it, and boil it in milk and water ; drain it again, then lay 
some of it at the bottom of a stewpan ; put the birds on it, 
being well seasoned, and cover them with the remainder ; put 
a little broth into them, and stew till tender before you serve. 
Add some cream, and a little flour and butter ; give it one 
boil, and serve with cabbage around the pigeons. 

Another Way 

Stew in a good gravy, stuffed or not, and season well. 
Add a little mushroom catsup, or fresh mushrooms. 

Broiled Pigeons 

Slit them down the back, season and broil ; serve with 
mushroom sauce ; or melted butter with a little mushroom 
catsup. 

To Pickle Pigeons 

Bone the pigeons, turn the inside out, and lard it : season 
with Jamaica pepper pounded very fine and a little salt : turn 
the inside outwards again, and tie the neck and rump with 
thread : put them in boiling water, let them boil a minute or 
two to plump : take them out, and dry with a cloth. The 



The Southern Cookbook 17 

pickle must be made of an equal, quantity of wine, and white 
wine, vinegar ; white pepper, Jamaica pepper, sliced nutmeg, 
ginger, and two or three bayleaves boiled. When it boils, 
put the pigeons into it, and let them boil fifteen minutes, if 
small ; twenty if large. Then take them out, wipe, and let 
them cool. When the pickle is cold, take off the fat, and put 
them in. 

They must be kept in a stone jar, tied down with a blad- 
der to exclude the air. You may in some, instead of larding, 
put a stuffing of hard boiled eggs, and marrow, in equal quan- 
tities, spices, and sweet herbs. 

Pigeon* in Jelly 

Save some of the liquor in which the knuckles of veal 
have been boiled, as likewise a calf s toot, or else simmer some 
isinglass in it, a blade of mace, an onion, a bunch of herbs, 
some lemon-peel, white pepper, and salt. When the pigeons 
are nicely cleaned and soaked, put them in a pan, and pour 
the liquor over them ; and let them bake, and remain in it till 
cold. When served, put jelly over and around them. Season 

them as you approve. 

1 

Potted Pigeons 

Take fresh ones : clean them carefully : season with pep- 
per and salt : put them close in a small pan, and pour butter 
over : bake, and when cold take them out. Put into fresh pots, 
fit to serve to table, two or three in each, and pour butter 
over, using that which was baked with them as part. Observe, 
that it is necessary to put a good deal of butter if to be kept. 

Note. Butter that has covered potted things is good for 
basting, and will make very good paste for meat pies. If to 
be high, add .some mace, and a few Jamaica peppers to the 
seasoning. 

Roast Pigeons 

Should be stuffed with uncut parsley, seasoned, and 
served with parsley and butter. Asparagus, or peas, should 
be dressed to eat with them. 

(2) 



i8 



The Southern Cookbook 



Pigeon Pie 

Clean as before ; season ; and, if approved, put some 
parsley into the birds, and a bit of butter, with pepper and 
salt. Lay a beefsteak at the bottom of the dish, and hard 
eggs between each two birds, and a little water. If you have 
ham in the house, lay a slice on each : it is a great improve- 
ment to the flavor. 

Observe when you cut ham for sauce or pies, to turn it, 
and take from the under side instead of the prime. 

Parsley Pie 

Lay veal or fowl at the bottom of a pie dish, seasoned. 
Take a colander full of picked parsley, cover the meat with it, 
and pour some cream into the dish, and a spoontul or two of 
broth. Cover with crust. 



FISH 



Observations on Dressing Fish 

If the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is seldom very 
nicely done; but those in great towns wash it beyond what is 
necessary for cleaning, and by perpetual watering diminish 
the flavor. When quite clean, if to be boiled, some salt and a 
little vinegar should be put to the water, to give firmness; but 
cod, whiting and haddock, are far better, if a little salted, and 
kept a day; and, if not very hot weather, they will be good in 
two days. 

Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by taking 
more at a time than they want for one day, often get it cheap, 
and that which will hang by sprinkling, may then be bought to 
advantage. 

The fish must be put into the water while cold, and set to 
do very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part 
be done. 

The fish plate on which it is done, may be drawn up to 
see if it be ready; it will leave tne bone when it is. It should 
be then immediately taken out of the water, or it will be wool- 
ly. The fishplate should be set cross-ways over the kettle, to 
keep hot for serving, and a clean cloth should cover the fish, 
to prevent its losing its color. 

Small fish, nicely fried in egg and crumbs, make a dish 
of fish far more elegant than served plain. Great attention 
should be paid to garnishing fish; plenty of horseradish, pars- 
ley, and lemon. 

When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more 
attended to than almost any other dish. The liver and roe 
should be placed on the dish, so nonspicuously that the lady 
may 6ee them, and help a part to every one. The sound of the 
cod, its head, and the head of carp, are reckoned the prime 
parts; and it is a part of necessary attention to help, or at least 
offer some of the best to one's friends; nor is it any excuse 
for the mistress's negligence, that it is the fashion of the pre- 



20 



The Southern Cookbook 



sent day for those who sit at her right or left hand to help the 
company, which she must see they do properly. 

If salmon is to be dressed, great care is necessary that it 
be done enough. No vinegar should be boiled with it. 

If fish is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapped in a 
nice soft cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. When 
perfectly dry, wet with an egg, if the former way, and sprinkle 
the finest crumbs of bread over it, then having a thick bottom- 
ed frying pan on the fire, with a large quantity of lard or drip- 
ping boiling hot, plunge the fish into it, and let it fry middling 
quick, till the color be a fine yellow brown, and it be judged 
ready: if the latter take place first, the cook should draw the 
pan to the side of the fire; lest the color be spoiled. She 
should then carefully take it up, and either place it on a large 
sieve turned upward, and to be kept for that purpose only, or 
on the underside of a dish to drain; and if wanted very nice, a 
sheet of cap-paper must be put to receive the fish, which 
should look a beautiful color, and all crumbs appear distinct; 
the fish being free from all grease. 

Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or parsley 
fried, which must be done thus; when washed and picked, 
throw it again into clean water; when the lard or dripping- 
boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from the water, 
and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be done 
after the fish is fried. 

If the fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned and floured, 
and put on a gridiron that is very clean, and when hot, it 
should be rubbed with a bit of suet, to prevent the fish from 
sticking. It must be broiled on a very clear fire, that it may 
riot be scorched. 

Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, Etc. 

Of fat bacon, beef-suet, and fresh butter, equal parts; some 
parsley, thyme, and savory;" a little onion, and a few leaves of 
scented marjoram, shred finely; an anchovy or two; a little salt 
and nutmeg, and some pepper. 

If you have oysters, three or four may be used instead of 



The Southern Cookbook 



anchovies. Mix all with crumbs of bread and two yolks and 
whites of eggs well beaten, and parsley shred fine. 

Sprats 

When cleaned, should be fastened in rows by a skewer, 
run through the heads, and then broiled, and served hot. 

To Dress Sturgeon 

Cut slices, rub egg over, then sprinkle with crumbs of 
bread, parsley, pepper, salt and fold in paper, and broil gently. 
Sauce; butter, anchovy, and soy. 

Thornback, or Skate 

Should be hung one day at least, before it be dressed, 
and may be served either boiled, or fried in crumbs, being 
first dipped in egg. 

Crimp Skate 

Boiled and sent up in a napkin; or fried as above. 

Maids 

Should be likewise hung one day at least. May be boiled 
or fried: or if of a tolerable size, the middle may be boiled and 
the fins fried. They should be dipped in eggs, and covered 
with crumbs. 

An Excellent Imitation of Sturgeon 

Take a fine large, but not an old turkey; pick it most 
nicely; singe it, and make it very clean; bone, wash, and dry it; 
tie it across and across, with a bit of mastring washed clean, 
as they tie sturgeon. Put into a very nice tin saucepan a quart 
of water, the same of vinegar, and of white-wine, that is not 
sweet, and a very large handful of salt. Let boil, and skim 
well, then put in the turkey; when done, take it out and tight- 
en the strings. Let the liquor boil half an hour after, and 
when cold, put it on the turkey. If salt or vinegar be wanting, 
add when cold. This will keep some months. You eat it with oil 
and vinegar. It is more delicate than sturgeon, and makes a 
pretty variety, if the real is not to be had. Cover it with fennel 
when brought to table. 



22 



The Southern Cookbook 



To Boil Turbot 

The turbot kettle must be of a proper size, and in the 
nicest order. Set the fish in cold water, to cover it completely: 
throw a handful of salt and one glass of vinegar into it; let it 
gradually boil; be very careful that there fall no blacks, but 
skin it well, and preserve the beauty of the color. 

Serve it garnished with a complete fringe of curled pars- 
ley, lemon, and horse-radish. 

The sauce must be the finest lobster, and anchovy butter, 
and plain butter, served plentifully in separate tureens. 

To Stew Lamprey, as at Worcester 

After cleaning the fish carefully, remove the cartilage 
which runs down the back, and season with a small quantity 
of cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and pimento. Put it in a 
small stew-pot, with very strong beef gravy, with Port and 
equal quantity of Madeira or Sherry wine. 

It must be covered; stew till tender; then take out the lam- 
prey and keep it hot, while you boil up the liquor with two or 
three anchovies chopped, and some flour and butter: strain 
the gravy through a sieve, and add lemon-juice and some made 
mustard. Serve with sippets of bread and horseradish, 

Eels, soles, and carp, done the same way, are excellent. 
When there is spawn, it must be fried and put around. 

Note. Cider, instead of white wine, will do in common. 

Eel Pie 

Cut the eels in lengths of two or three inches: season 
with pepper and salt, and place in the dish, with some bits of 
butter and a little water, and cover it with paste. 

Spitchcock Eels 

Take a large one, leave the skin on, cut it in pieces of 
four inches long, open it on the belly side, and clean it nicely; 
wipe it dry and then wet it with a beaten egg, and stew it over 
on both sides with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, very little 



The Southern Cookbook 



23 



sage, and a bit of mace pounded fine and mixed with the sea- 
soning. Rub the gridiron with a bit of suet, and broil the fish 
of a fine color. Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce. 

Fried Eels 

If small, they should be curled round and fried, being first 
dipped in egg and crumbs of bread. 

Boiled Eels 

The small ones are preferable. Do them in a small quanti- 
ty of water, with a good deal of parsley, which should be 
served up with them and the liquor. 

Serve chopped parsley and butter for sauce. 

Eel Broth 

Very nourishing for the sick. 

As above; but to be stewed two hours, and an onion and 
pepper-corns added: salt to taste. 

Collared Eels 

Bone a large eel, but do not skin it; mix pepper, salt, 
mace, pimento, and a clove or two, in the finest powder, and 
rub over the whole inside: roll it tight, and bind it with a 
coarse tape. Boil it in salt and water till enough; then add 
vinegar, and, when cold, keep the collar in pickle. Serve it 
whole, or in slices, garnished with parsley. Chopped sage, 
parsley, and a little thyme, knotted marjoram and savory, mix- 
ed with the spices, greatly improve the taste. 

Perch and Tench 

Put them in cold water, boil them carefully, and serve 
with melted butter and soy. 



24 



The Southern Cookbook 



Mackerel 

Boiled, and served with butter and fennel. 
Broiled, being split and sprinkled with herbs, pepper ar.d 
salt; or stuffed with the same, crumbs and chopped fennel. 
Collared, as eel above. 

Potted. Clean, season and bake them in a pan, with spice, 
bay-leaves, and some butter: when cold, lay them in a potting- 
pot, and cover with butter. 

Pickled, boil them; then boil some vinegar: when cold, 
pour it over them. 

To Pickle Mackerel, Called Caveach 

Clean and divide, then cut each side in three; or leaving 
them undivided, cut each fish in five or six pieces. To six 
large mackerel, take near an ounce of pepper, two nutmegs, a 
little mace, four cloves, and a handful of salt, all in finest 
powder; mix, and, making holes in each bit of fish, thrust the 
seasoning into them; rub each piece with some of it; then fry 
them brown in oil; let them stand till cold, then put them into 
a stone jar, and cover with vinegar; if to keep long, pour oil on 
the top. This done, they may be preserved for months. 

To Bake Pike 

Scale it, open as near the throat as you can, then stuff it 
with the following: grated bread, herbs, anchovies, oysters, 
suet, salt, pepper, mace, half a pint of cream, four yolks of eggs; 
mix all over the fire, till it thickens, then put it into the fish, 
sew it up. Butter should be put over it in little bits: bake it. 
Serve sauce of gravy, butter. 

Note. If, in helping a pike, the back and belly be slit up, 
and each slice be gently drawn downwards, there will be 
fewer bones given. 

Salmon, to Boil 

Clean it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out of the 
water as soon as done; and let the water be warm if they be 
split. Shrimp or anchovy sauce. 



The Son then i Cookbook 



25 



Salmon, to Pickle 

Boil as above, take the fish out and boil the liquor with 
bay leaves, pepper corns and salt; add vinegar when cold, and 
pour over the fish. 

Salmon, to Broil 

Cut slices about an inch thick; season, and put them into 
papers; twist them, and broil gently. Serve in the papers; 
anchovy sauce. 

Salmon, to Pot 

Take a large piece, scale and wipe, but do not wash it; 
salt it very well: let it lie till the salt be melted and drained 
from it, then season with beaten mace, cloves, and whole pep- 
pers. Lay in a few bay- leaves, put it close in a pan, and cover 
it over with butter, and bake it. When well done, drain it 
from the gravy, put it in the pots to keep; and when cold, cover 
with clarified butter. 

Salmon, to Dry 

Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe. Rub the 
whole with common salt, after scaling it; let it hang to drain 
twenty-four hours. Pound three or four ounces of saltpetre, 
according to the size of the fish, two ounces of bay salt, and 
two ounces of course sugar: rub these when mixed well, into 
the salmon, and lay it on a large dish or tray two days, then 
rub it well with common salt, and in twenty-four hours more 
it will be fit to dry; but you must dry it well after draining. 
Either hang in a wood chimney, or in a dry place, keeping it 
open with two small sticks. 

Lobsters, to Pot 

Boil them half, pick out the meat, cut into small bits; sea- 
son with mace, white pepper, nutmeg, and salt: press close in- 
to a pot, and cover with butter: bake half an hour: put the 
spawn in. When cold, take the lobsters out, and with a little 
of the butter put it into the pots. Beat the other butter in a 



26 



The Southern Cookbook 



mortar with some of the spawn; then mix that colored butter 
with as much as will be sufficient to cover the pots, and strain 
it. Cayenne may be added, if approved. 

Another Way, as at Wood's Hotel 

Take out the meat as whole as you can; split the tail and 
* remove the gut; if the inside be not watery, add that. Season 
with mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, and a clove or two in 
finest powder. Lay a little fine butter at the bottom of a pan, 
and the lobster smooth over it, with bav-leaves between: cover, 
it with butter, and bake it gently. When done, poi r the whole 
on the bottom of a sieve, and with a fork lay the pieces into 
potting pots, some of each sort with the seasoning about it. 
When cold, poor clarified butter over, but not hot. It will be 
good next day; or highly seasoned, and thick covered with but- 
ter, will keep some time. 

The potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fricassee, 
with a cream sauce, when it looks very nicely, and eats excel- 
lently, especially if there be spawn. 

Mackerel, herrings, and trout, are good potted as above. 

Stewed Lobster, as a Very High Relish 

Pick the lobster, put the berries into a dish that has a 
lamp, and rub them down with a bit of butter, two spoonfuls 
of any sort of gravy, one of soy or walnut catsup, a little salt 
and cayenne, and a spoonful of port. Stew the lobster cut in 
bits with the gravy, as above. It must be dressed at table, and 
eaten immediately. 

Lobster Pie 

Boil two lobsters, or three small; take out the tails, cut 
them in two, take out the gut, cut each in four pieces, and lay 
them in a small dish. Then put in the meat of the claws, and 
that you have picked out of the body; pick off the furry parts 
from the latter, and take out the latter; then take the spawn, 
beat it in a mortar, likewise all the shells. Set them on to 



The Southern Cookbook 



27 



stew with some water, two or three spoonfuls of vinegar, pep- 
per, salt, and some pounded mace. A large piece of butter, 
rolled in flour, must be added when the goodness of the shells 
is obtained. Give a boil or two, and pour into the dish strain- 
ed: strew some crumbs over, and put a paste over all. Bake 
slowly, but only till the paste be done. 

Curry of Lobsters or Prawns 

When taken out of the shells, simmer them as above. 

Hot Crab 

Pick the meat out of a crab, clear the shell from the 
head, then put the former, with a very small bit of nutmeg, 
salt, pepper, a bit of butter, crumbs of bread, and three spoon- 
fuls of vinegar, into the shell again, and set it before the fire. 
You may brown it with a salamander. 

Dry toast should be served to eat it upon. 

Buttered Lobsters 

Pick the meat out; cut it and warm with a little weak 
brown gravy, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and butter, with a little 
flour. If done white, a little white gravy and cream. 

To Dress Red Herrings 

Choose those that are large and moist; cut them open, 
and pour some boiling small beer over them, to soak half an 
hour. Drain them dry, and make them just hot through be- 
fore the fire; then rub some cold butter over them and serve. 
Egg sauce, or buttered eggs and mashed potatoes, should be 
served with them. 

Baked Herrings or Sprats 

Wash and drain without wiping them. Season with Ja- 
maica pepper in fine powder, salt, a whole clove or two: lay 
them in a pan with plenty of black pepper, an onion, and a few 
bay leaves. Put half vinegar and half small beer, enough to 
cover them. Put paper over the pan, and bake in a slow oven. 
If you like, throw saltpetre over them the night before, to 
make them look red. Gut, but do not open them. 



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The Sou t lie r u Cookbook 



To Smoke Herrings 

Clean and lay them in salt, and a little saltpetre one 
night; then hang them on a stick, through the eves, on a row. 
Have ready an old cask, on which put some sawdust, and in 
the midst of it a heater red hot; over the smoke fix the stick, 
and let them remain twentv-four hours. 

Fried Herrings 

Serve them of a light brown, and onions sliced and fried. 

Broiled Herrings 

Floured first, and done of good color. Plain butter for 
sauce. They are very good potted like mackerel. 

Soles 

If boiled, they must be served with great care to look 
perfectly white, and should be much covered with parsley. 

If fried, dip them in egg, and cover them with fine crumbs 
of bread. Set on a frying-pan that is just large enough, and 
put into it a large quantity of fresh lard or dripping; boil it, 
and immediatelv slip the fish into it. Do them to a fine brown. 
When enough, take them out carefully, and lay them upon a 
dish turned under side uppermost, and placed slantingly, be- 
fore the fire to drain off the fat. If you wish them to be par- 
ticularly nice, place them on clean paper, and let lay some 
minutes. 

Observe, that fish never looks well if not fried in plenty 
of fat, and that boiling hot, before it be put into it. The drip- 
ping may serve again with a little fresh. Take care the fat 
does not become black. Butter makes everything black that 
is fried in it. The soles should just fit the inside of the dish, 
and a fringe of curled parsley garnish the edge completely, 
which looks beautiful. 

Soles that have been fried, eat gocd cold, with oil, vine- 
gar, salt, and mustard. Note. Fine oil gives the finest color, 
but is expensive. 



The Sou the rn Cookbook 



29 



Stewed Soles, and Carp 

Are to be done like lampreys. 

Soles in the Portuguese Way 

Take one large, or two lesser; if the former, cut the fish 
in two, if they are small, they need only to be split. The 
bones being taken out, put the fish in a pan, with a bit of but- 
ter and some lemon-juice: give it a fry; then lay the fish on a 
dish, and spread a forcemeat over each piece, and roll it round, 
fastening the roll with a few small skewers. Lay the rolls in 
a small earthen pan; beat. an egg and wet them, then strew 
crumbs over, and put the remainder of the eggs, with a little 
meat gravy, a spoonful of caper liquor, an anchovy chopped 
fine, and some parsley chopped, into the bottom of the pan; 
cover it close, and bake in a slow oven until the fish be done 
enough. Then place the rolls in the dish for serving; cover 
it to keep it hot until the gravy baked be skimmed: if not 
enough, a little fresh, flavored as above, must be prepared and 
added to it. 

Stuffing for Soles, Baked 

Pound cold beef, mutton, or veal, a little, then add some 
fat bacon, that has been lightly fried, cut small, and some 
onions, a little garlic, or shallot, some parsley, anchovy, 
pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Pound all fine, with a few crumbs, 
and bind it with two or three yolks of eggs. 

The heads of the fish are to be left on one side of the 
split part, and kept on the outer side of the roll ; and, when 
served, the heads are to be turned towards each other in the 
dish. 

Garnish with fried or dried parsley. 

Sole, Cod, or Turbot Pie : Another Sort of Stuffing 

Boil two pounds of eel tender ; pick all the flesh clean 
from the bones ; throw the latter into the liquor the eels were 
boiled in, with a little mace, salt, and parsley, and boil till 
very good, and come to a quarter of a pint, and strain it. 



30 



The Southern Cookbook 



In the mean time, cut the flesh of the eels fine, likewise some 
lemon-peel, parsley, and an anchovy : put to them pepper, salt 
nutmeg, and some crumbs. Melt four ounces of butter, and 
mix, then lay it in a dish at the bottom : cut the flesh of two 
or three soles clean from the bones, and fins ; lay it on the 
forcemeat, and pour the eel broth in. The bones of the soles 
should be boiled with those of the eels. You may boil them 
with one or two little eels, and pour it, well seasoned, on the 
fish, and put on forcemeat. 

An Excellent way of Dressing a Larger Plaice, Especially if 

There be a Roe 

Sprinkle it with salt, and keep it twenty-four hours, then 
wash and wipe it dry : wet it over with eggs ; cover with 
crumbs of bread ; make some lard or fine dripping, and two 
large spoonfuls of vinegar boiling hot, lay the fish in, and fry 
it a fine color. Drain it from the fat, and serve with fried 
parsley round, and anchovy sauce. You may dip the fish in 
vinegar, and not put it in the pan. 

To Fry Smelts 

They should not be washed more than necessary to clean. 
Dry in a cloth, then lightly flour, but shake it off. Dip them 
in plenty of egg, then into bread crumbs grated fine, and 
plunge them into a good pan of boiling lard. Let them con- 
tinue gently boiling, and a few minutes will make them a 
bright yellow brown. Take care not to take off the light 
roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be lost. 

Boiled Carp 

Serve in a napkin, and with the sauce directed for it 
among sauces. 

Cod's Head and Shoulders 

Will eat much finer by having a little salt rubbed down 
the bone, and along the thick part, even if to be eaten the 
same day. 

Tie it up, and put on the fire in cold water which will 



The Southern Cookbook 



3i 



completely cover it : throw a handful of salt in it. Great care 
must be taken to serve it without the smallest speck of black 
or scum. Garnish with a large quantity of double parsley, 
lemon, horseradish, and the milk, roe. and liver, and smelts 
fried, if approved. If the latter, be cautious that no water 
hang about the fish, or the, beauty of the smelts will be taken 
off, as well as their flavor. 

Serve with plenty of oysters or shrimp sauce, and 
anchovy and butter. 

Some people boil the cod whole ; but there is no fish 
that is more proper to help, than in a large head and shoul- 
ders, the thinner parts being overdone and tasteless before the 
thick be ready : but the whole fish may be purchased at 
times, more reasonable, and the lower half, if sprinkled the 
least, and hung up, will be in high perfection in one or two 
days : or it may be made Salter, and serve with egg sauce, 
potatoes, and parsnips. 

Crimp Cod 

Boil, broil, or fry. 

Cod Sounds, Boiled 

Soak them in warm water till soft, then scrape and clean; 
and, if to be dressed white, boil them in milk and water, and 
when tender, serve them in a napkin. Egg sauce. 

Cod Sounds, Ragout 

Prepare as above, then stew them in white gravy seasoned; 
cream, butter, and a little bit of flour added before you serve, 
gently boiling up. A bit of lemon-peel, nutmeg, and the least 
pounded mace, should give the flavor. 

Curry of Cod 

Should be made of sliced cod that has either been crimp- 
ed, or sprinkled a day to make it firm. Fry it of a fine brown, 
with onions, and stew it with a good white gravy, a little 
curry powder, a bit of butter and flour, three or four spoon- 
fuls of rich cream, salt, and cayenne. 



The Southern Cookbook 



Fish Pie 

Cod or Haddock, sprinkled with salt to give firmess, 
slice and season with pepper and salt, and place in a dish 
mixed with oysters. Put the oyster liquor, a little broth, and 
a bit of flour and butter, boiled together, into the dish cold: 
Put a paste over ; and when it comes from the oven, pour in 
some warm cream. If you please, you may put parslev 
instead of oysters. 

Haddock 

Do the same as cod, and serve with the same sauce : or, 
stuff with forcemeat, or boil them with stuffing. 

Potato Pasty 

Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possible ; then 
mix pepper, salt, and a little thick cream, or if vou preterit 
it, butter. Make a paste, and, rolling out like a large puff, 
put the potato into it and bake it. 

Turnip Pie 

Season mutton chops with pepper and salt ; lav them in 
the bottom of a dish, reserving the ends of the bones to lay 
over the turnips ; which cut and season, and lav over the 
steaks tilr the dish is full. Put two or three spoonfuls of 
water in, and cover with crust. Vou may add a little onion: 

Shrimp Pie. Excellent 

Take a quart of picked shrimps : if very salt, only season 
with mace, and a clove or two in fine powder ; but if not salt, 
mince two or three anchovies, mix with spice, and season 
them. Pat some butter at the bottom of dish, and over the 
shrimps, and a glass of sharp white wine. Put a good light 
paste over. They do not require long baking. 

Cornish Pies 

Scald and blanch some broad beans : cut mushroom, car- 
rots, turnips, and artichoke bottoms, and with some peas, and 
a little onion, make the whole into a nice stew, with some 



The Southern Cookbook 



33 



good veal gravy. Bake a crust over a dish, with a little lining 
around the edge, and a cup within to keep it from sinking : 
open the lid, and put in the fricassee made hot ; seasoning to 
your taste. Shallots, parsley, lettuce, celery, or any sort of 
of vegetables that you like, may be added. 

Fish Pie 

Put slices of cod that have been salted a night; pepper, and 
between each layer put a good quantity of parsley picked from 
the stalks, and some fresh butter Pour a little broth, if you 
have any, or else a little water. Bake the pie ; and when to 
be served, add a quarter of a cup of raw cream warm, with half 
a teaspoonful of flour. Oysters may be added. 

Mackerel will do well ; but do not salt till used. 

Soles, with oysters, seasoned with pounded mace, nut- 
meg, pepper, an anchovy, and some salt, make an excellent pie. 
Put in the oysters, liquor, two or three spoonfuls of broth, and 
some butter for gravy. When come from the oven, pour in a 
cup of thick cream. 



(3) 



34 



The Southern Cookbook 



HARES, RABBITS, ETC. 

To Prepare Meat or Fowls for Raised Pies 

When washed put a good seasoning of spices and salt. 
Set it over a fire in a stewpan, that will just hold the meat : 
put a piece of butter, and, covering close, let it simmer in its 
own steam till it shrinks. It must be cool before it be put in- 
to the pie. Chicken's sweetbreads, giblets, pigeon's meat, al- 
most anything will make a good pie, . if well seasoned, and 
made tender by stewing. A forcemeat may be put under 
and over, if cold chicken or veal, fat bacon, shied ham, heibs, 
bread, and seasoning, bound with an egg or two or in balls. 
Or instead of crust, use an earthen pie form, 

HARES 

If old, should be larded with bacon, after having hung as 
long as they will keep, and being first soaked in pepper and 
vinegar. 

If not paunched as soon as killed, hares are more juicy : 
but as that is usually done in the field, the cook must be care- 
ful to wipe it dry every day ; the liver being removed, and 
boiled to keep for the stuffing. 

Parsley put in the belly will help to keep it fresh. 

When to be dressed, the hare must be well soaked; and 
if the neck and shoulders are bloody, in warm water : then 
dry it, and put to it a large fine stuffing, made of the liver, an 
anchovv, some fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, spice, and bread 
crumbs, with an egg to bind it. Sew it up. Observe that 
the ears are nicely cleansed and singed. When half roasted, 
cut the skin of the neck to let out the blood, which afterwards, 
fixes there. Baste with milk till three parts done, then with 
butter, and before served, froth it up with flour. It should be 
put down early, kept at a great distance at first from the fire, 
and drawn near by degrees. 

Send a rich brown gravy in the dish ; melted butter in 
one boat, and currant jelly in another. 



The Souther) i Cookbook 35 

To Jug an Old Hare 

After it is well cleansed and skinned, cut it up and sea- 
son it with pepper, allspice, salt, pounded mace, and a little 
nutmeg : put it into a jar, with an onion, a clove or two, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, and over all a bit of coarse beef. Tie 
it down with a bladder and leather quite close, and put the jar 
into a saucepan of water up to the neck, but no higher. Let 
the water boil gently five hours. When to be served, pour the 
gravy into a saucepan, and thicken it with butter and flour; 
or if become cold, warm the hare with the gravy. 

Hare Soup. See Soups 
Hare Pie 

Season the hare after it is cut up. Put eggs and force- 
meat, and either bake in a raised crust or a dish : if in the 
former, put cold jelly gravy to it ; if for the latter, the same 
hot ; but the pie is to be eaten cold. See jelly among similar 
articles. 

Potted Hare 

Having seasoned, and baked it with butter over, cover it 
with brown paper, and let it grow cold. Then take the meat from 
the bones, beat it into a mortar, and add salt, mace, pepper, if 
not high enough ; a bit of fresh butter melted, and a spoonful 
of the gravy that came from the hare when baked. Put the 
meat into small pots, and cover it well with butter warmed. 
The prime should be baked at the bottom of the pot. 

Broiled Hare and Hashed 

The flavor of broiled hare is particularly fine. The legs 
or wings peppered and salted first, and when done, rubbed 
with cold butter. 

The other parts warmed with the gravy and a little stuf- 
fing. 



36 



The Southern Cookbook 



RABBITS 

May be eaten various ways. 
Roasted with stuffing and gravy. 

Roasted without stuffing ; and with liver, parsley, and 
butter : seasoned with pepper and salt. 

Boiled, and smothered with onion sauce ; the butter being 
melted with milk instead of water. 

Fried, and served with dried or fried parsley, and liver 
sauce as above. 

Fricaseed, as directed for chicken. 

Made into pies, as chicken, with forcemeat, etc, are ex- 
cellent when young. 

To Make Rabbit Taste Much Like Hare 

Choose a young full grown one : hang it, with the skin 
on, two or three days : skin, and lay it unwashed in a season- 
ing of black and Jamaica peppers, in fine powder, putting some 
port wine into the dish, and baste it occasionally for forty 
hours : then stuff and roast it as hare, and with the same 
sauce. Do not wash off the liquor that it lay in. 

Potted Rabbit 

Cut up and season three or four after washing them. The 
seasoning must be mace, pepper, salt, a little cayenne, and a 
few pimentos in finest powder. Pack them as close as possi- 
ble, in a small pan, and make the surface smooth. Keep out 
the carcasses, having taken all the meat off them, and, putting 
a good deal of butter over the rabbits, bake them gently. 
Let them remain a day or two, then remove into potting pans; 
and add some fresh butter to that which already covers them. 

Egg Mince pies 

Boil six eggs hard, and shred them small : shred double 
the quantity of suet ; then put currants washed and picked, 
one pound or more, if the eggs are large ; the peel of one 
lemon shred very fine, half the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet 
wine ; mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very little salt, orange, lemon, 
and citron candied. Make a light paste for them. 



The Southern Cookbook 



37 



Savory Rice 

Wash and pick some rice : stew it very gently in a small 
quantity of veal, or rich mutton broth, with an onion, a blade 
of mace, pepper, and salt. When swelled, but not boiled to 
mash, dry it on the shallow end of the sieve before the fire, 
and either sieve it dry, or put it in the middle of a dish, and 
pour the gravy around it, having heated it. 

Buttered Rice 

Prepare some rice as above : drain, and put it with some 
new milk, enough just to swell it, over the fire. When tender, 
pour off the milk, and add a bit of butter, a little sugar, and 
pounded cinnanon. Shake it, that it does not burn, and 
serve. 

Rice Boiled to Eat With Curry or Roast Meats 

Prepare as above ; then put it into a large quantity of 
water, boil it quick, throw in a little salt, and observe the very 
moment when it is swelled large, but not too much softened ; 
then drain off the water, and pour the rice on the shallow end 
of the sieve ; set it before a fire, and let it stay until it sepa- 
rates and dries. Serve it without sauce of any kind. 

Omelet 

Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little flour ; 
put to it chopped parsley, onions, or chives (the latter is best ;) 
or a very small quantity of shallot, a little pepper, salt and a 
scrape or two of nutmeg. Make some very nice dripping ; 
boil in a small frying-pan, and pour the above batter into it. 
When one side is of a fine yellow brown, turn and do the other. 
Some scraped lean ham, put in at first, is a very pleasant ad- 
dition. Three eggs will make a good pretty sized omelet : 
but many cooks will use eight or ten. 

If the taste be approved, a little tarragon gives a fine 
flavor. A good deal of parsley should be used. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Ramekins 

Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and a quarter 
pound of Gloucester cheese, and a quarter pound of good 
fresh butter, then beat all into a mortar with the yolks of four 
eggs and the inside of a small French roll boiled in cream till 
soft. Mix the paste with the whites of the eggs previous- 
ly beaten and put into small paper pans made rather long than 
square, and bake in a Dutch oven till of a fine brown. They 
should be eaten quite hot. 

Bacon Fraise 

Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long ; make a 
batter of milk, well beaten eggs, and flour ; put a littte lard 
or dripping into th^ pan, and when hot, pour the batter in, 
and cover it with a dish. When fit to turn, put in the bacon, 
and turn it very carefully, so that the bacon does not touch 
the pan. 

Rice Puff Paste 

Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much fine 
flour as you judge necessary ; mix a little of the former \v T ith 
the latter, and wet it with as little water as will make into a 
stiff paste. Roll it out and put all the butter over the slices ; 
turn in the ends, and roll it thin : do this twice, and touch 
it no more than can be avoided. The butter may be added 
twice, and to those who are not accustomed to make paste, it 
may be better to do so. 

A quicker oven than for short crust. 

A Less Rich Paste 

Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter pound of butter ; 
rub them together, and mix into a paste with a little water, 
and an egg well beaten ; of the former as little as will suffice, 
or the paste will be tough. Roll, and fold in three or fcur 
times. 

Rub extremely fine, in one pound of dried flour, six ounces 
of butter, and a spoonful of white sugar. Work up the whole 
into a stiff paste, with as little hot water as possible. 



The Southern Cookbook 



39 



German Puffs, Another Way 

Boil two ounces of fresh butter in half a pint of cream ; 
stir until cold, then beat two eggs, strain them into the cream, 
and mix that by degrees into two tablespoonfuls of flour: but- 
ter teacups, and into each put three spoonfuls of batter; bake 
them half an hour, and serve the moment they are to be eaten, 
turned out of the cups, with sauce of melted butter, sugar, and 
the juice of a lemon. 

Excellent Short Crust 

Make two ounces of white sugar, pounded and sifted 
quite dry ; then mix it with a pound of flour well dried ; rub 
into it three ounces of butter so fine as not to be seen ; into 
some cream put the yolks of two eggs beaten, and mix the 
above into a smooth paste ; roll it thin, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven. 

Another 

Mix with a pound of fine flour, dried, an ounce of sugar 
pounded and sifted ; then crumble three ounces of butter in 
it, till it looks all like flour, and with a gill of boiling cream, 
work it up to a fine paste. 

Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes 

Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth ; then mix it 
with as much water as will make three quarters of a pound of 
flour into a very stiff paste : then roll it very thin, then lay 
the third part of half a pound of butter upon it in little bits : 
dredge it with some flour, left out at first, and roll it uptight. 
Roll it up again, and put the same proportion of butter : and 
so proceed till all is wotked up. 

Raised Crust for Custards or Fruit 

Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan with water ; and 
when it boils, pour it into as much flour as you choose, knead 



40 



The Southern Cookbook 



and beat it till smooth : cover it as on the other side. Raise 
it ; and if for custard, put a paper within to keep out the sides 
till half done, then fill with a cold mixture of milk, egg, sugar, 
and a little peach-water, lemon-peel, or nutmeg. By cold is 
meant that the egg is not to be warmed, but the milk should 
be warmed by itself ; not to spoil the crust. 

Raised Crust for Meatpies or Fowls, etc 

Boil water with a little fine lard, and an equal quantity of 
fresh dripping, or of butter, but not much of either. While 
hot, mix this with as much flour as you will want, making the 
paste as stiff as you can to be smooth, which you will make 
it by good kneading, and beating with the rolling pin. When 
quite smooth, put it in a lump into a cloth, or under a pan 
to soak, till near cold. 

Those who have not a good hand at raising crust, may do 
this : roll the paste of a proper thickness; and cut out the top 
and bottom of the pie, then a long piece of the side. Cement 
the bottom to the sides with egg, bringing the former rather 
further out, and pinching both together. The same mode of 
uniting the paste is to be observed if the sides are pressed into 
a tin form, in which the paste must be cooked, after it shall 
be filled and covered ; but in the latter case the tin should be 
buttered, and carefully taken off when done enough; and as 
the form usually makes the sides of a lighter color than is prop- 
er, the paste should be put into the oven again for a quarter 
of an hour. With a feather put egg over at first. 

Crust for Venison Pastry 

To a quarter of a pound of fine flour use two pounds and 
a half of butter, and four eggs : mix into paste with warm 
water, and work it smooth and to a good consistency. Put a 
paste around the inside, but not to the bottom of the dish, 
and let the cover be pretty thick, to bear the long continuance 
in the oven. 



The Southern Cookbook 41 

Rice Pastry 

Boil a quarter pound of ground rice in the smallest quan- 
tity of water : strain from it all the moisture as well as you 
can. Beat it in a mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and 
one egg well beaten, and it will make an excellent paste for 
tarts, etc. 

Potato Pastry 

Pound boiled potatoes very fine ; and add, while warm, a 
sufficiency of butter to make the mash hold together. Or 
you may mix with it an egg ; then before it gets cold, flour 
the board pretty well to prevent it from sticking, and roll it 
to the thickness wanted. 

If it becomes quite cold before it is put on the dish, it 
will be apt to crack. 



42 



The Southern Cookbook 



PUDDINGS 

Sixty recipes for various puddings. 

Almond Pudding 

Beat half a pound of sweet and bitter almonds, with a 
spoonful of water ; then mix with four ounces of butter, four 
eggs, two spoonfuls of cream warmed with the butter, one of 
brandy, a little nutmeg and sugar to taste. Butter some cups 
half full, and bake the puddings. 

Serve with butter, wine, and sugar. 

Sago Pudding 

Boil a pint and a half of new milk with four spoonfuls of 
sago, nicely washed and picked, lemon-peel, cinnamon, and 
nutmeg. Sweeten to taste : then mix four eggs, put a paste 
around the dish, and bake slowly. 

Bread and Butter Pudding 

Slice bread, spread with butter, and lay it in a dish with 
currants between each layer, and sliced citron, orange or 
lemon if to be very nice. Pour over an unboiled custard of 
milk, two or three eggs, a few pimentos, and a very little 
ratafia, two hours at least before it is to be baked : and lade it 
over and over to soak the bread. 

A paste around the dish makes all puddings look better, 
but it is not necessary. 

Orange Pudding 

Grate the rind of a Seville orange ; put to it six ounces 
of fresh butter, six or eight ounces of lump sugar pounded : 
beat them all in a marble mortar, and add as you do it the 
whole of eight eggs well beaten and strained : scrape a raw 
apple, and mix with the rest ; put a paste at the bottom and 
sides of the dish, and, over the orange mixture, put crossbars 
of paste. Half an hour will bake it. 



The Southern Cookbook 



43 



Another Orange Pudding 

Mix of the orange paste, hereafter directed, two full 
spoons, with six eggs, four of sugar, four ounces of butter, 
warm, and put into a shallow dish, with a paste lining. Bake 
twenty minutes. 

Another 

Rather more than two tablespoonfuls of the orange paste, 
mixed with six eggs, four ounces of sugar, and four ounces of 
butter, melted; will make a good size pudding, with a paste 
at the bottom of the dish. Bake twenty minutes. 

An Excellent Lemon Pudding 

Beat the yolks of four eggs ; add four ounces of white 
sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with some lumps of it 
to take. the essence: then peel, and beat it in a mortar with 
the juice of a large lemon, and mix all with four or five ounces 
of butter warmed. Put a crust into a shallow dish ; nick the 
edges,, and put the above into it. When served, turn the pud- 
ding out of the dish. 

A Very Fine Amber Pudding 

Put a pound of butter into a saucepan, with three quart- 
ers of a pound of loaf sugar, finely powdered ; melt the but- 
ter and mix well with it : then add the yolks of fifteen eggs 
well beaten, and as much fresh candied orange as will add 
color and flavor to it, being first beaten to a fine paste. Line 
the dish with paste for turning out ; and when filled with the 
above, lay a crust over as you would a pie, and bake it in a 
slow oven. 

It is as good cold as hot. 

Baked Apple Pudding 

Pare and quarter four large apples ; boil them tender, 
with the rind of a lemon, in so little water that when done, 
none may remain : beat them quite fine in a mortar : add the 



44 



The Southern Cookbook 



crumbs of a small roll, four ounces of butter, melted, the yolks 
of fiveand the whites of three eggs, juice of half a lemon, and 
sugar to taste. Beat all together, and lay it in a dish with 
paste to turn out. 

Oatmeal Pudding 

Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the best fine 
oatmeal ; let it soak all night. Next day beat two eggs, and 
mix a little salt : butter a basin that will just hold it : cover it 
tight with a floured cloth, and boil it an hour and a half. Eat 
it with cold butter and salt. 

When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it as oatmeal but- 
tered. 

Dutch Puddings or S ouster 

Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk : mix it 
into two pounds of flour, eight eggs, four spoonfuls of yeast : 
add one pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of sugar 
beaten and sifted. 

This is a very good pudding hot ; and equally so as a cake 
when cold. If for the latter, caraways may be used instead of 
currants. An hour will bake it in a quick oven. 

A Dutch Rice Pudding 

Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an hour : 
drain the latter from it, and throw it into stewpan, with half 
a pint of milk, half a stick of cinnamon, and simmer till ten- 
der. When cold, add four whole eggs well beaten, two ounces 
of butter melted in a teaspoonful of cream ; and put three 
ounces of sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a good piece of 
lemon-peel. 

Put a light puff paste into a mould or dish, or grated tops 
and bottoms, and bake in a quick oven. 

Light, or German Puddings 

Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream : let it 
stand till nearly cold, then mix two ounces of fine flour, and 



The Son t hern Cookbook 



45 



two ounces of sugar, four yolks and two whites of eggs, and a 
a little rose or orange-flower water. Bake in little cups, but- 
tered, half an hour. They should be served the moment they 
are done, and only when going to be eaten, or they will not 
be light. 

Turn out of the cups, and serve with white wine and sugar. 

Little Bread Pudding 

Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in about a pint of warm 
milk : when soaked, beat six eggs, whites, and yolks, and mix 
with the bread, and two ounces of butter warmed, sugar, 
orange-flower water, a spoonful of brandy, a little nutmeg, and 
a teacupful of cream. Beat all well, and bake in teacups but- 
tered. If currants are chosen, a quarter of a pound is suffi- 
cient ; if not, they are good without ; or you may put orange 
or lemon candy. Serve with pudding sauce. 

Puddings in Haste . 

Shred suet, and put with grated bread, a few currants, 
the yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two, some grated 
lemon-peel, and ginger. Mix, and make into little balls about 
the size and shape of an egg, with a little flour. 

Have ready a skillet of boiling water, and throw them in. 
Twenty minutes will boil them ; but they will rise to the top 
when done. 

Pudding sauce. 

New -College Puddings 

Grate the crumbs of two penny loaves, shred suet eight 
ounces, and mix with eight ounces of currants, one of citron 
mixed fine, one of orange, and a handful of sugar, half a nut- 
meg, three eggs beaten, yolk and white separately. Mix, and 
make into the size and shape of a goose egg. Put half a 
pound of butter into a frying-pan ; and when melted, and quite 
hot, stew them gently in it over a stove. Turn them two or 

three times until of a fine light brown. Mix a glass of brandy 
with the batter. 

Serve with pudding sauce. 



\ 



46- 



The Southern Cookbook 



Oxford Dumplings 

Of grated bread two purices, currants, and shred suet 
four ounces each, two large spoonfuls of flour, a great deal of 
grated lemon-peel, a bit of sugar, and a little pimento in fine 
powder. Mix with two eggs and a little milk into five dump- 
lings, and fry of a fine yellow brown. 

Serve with sweet sauce. 

Brown Bread Pudding » 

Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, half a pound 
of currants, half a pound of shred suet, sugar, and nutmeg. 
Mix with four eggs, a spoonful of brandy, and two spoonfuls 
-of cream. Boil, in a cloth or basin that exactly holdsjt, three 
or four hours. 

Boiled Bread Pudding 

Grate white bread, pour boiling milk over it and cover 

•close. When soaked an hour or two, beat it fine, and mix 

..." ■ v 

with it two or three eggs well beaten 

Put it into a basin that 'will just hold it ; tie a floured 
cloth over it, and put it into boiling water. Send it up 'with 
melted butter poured over. 

It may be eaten with salt or sugar. 

Another, Richer Bread Pudding 

On half a pint of crumbs of bread, pour half a pint of - 
scalding milk ; cover an hour. Beat up four e£gs, and when 
strained, add to the bieacT, with a teaspoonful of flour, an 
ounce of butter,' two ounces of sugar, half a pound of currants, 
an ounce of almonds beaten with orange flower water, half an 
ounce of orange, half an ounce of lemon, half an ounce of 
citron. Butter a basin that will exactly hold it ; flour the 
cloth, and tie tight over, and boil one hour. 

Batter Pudding 

Rub three spoonfuls of fine flour extremely smooth into 
a pint of milk ; simmer till it thickens ; stir in two ounces of 



I 

7ke Southern Cookbook 47 

butter : set it to cool ; then add the yolks of three eggs. 
Flour a cloth that has been wet, or butter a basin, and put 
the batter into it ; tie it tight, and plunge' it into the boiling 
water, the bottom upwards. Boil it an hour and a half, and 
serve with plain butter. If approved a little ginger, nutmeg, 
and lemon-peel may be added, and sweet sauce. 

Batter Pudding With Meat 

Make a batter with flour, milk, and eggs ; pour a little 
into the bottom of a pudding dish : then put seasoned meat 
of any kind into it, and a little shred onion ; pcur the remain- 
der of the batter over, and bake in a slow oven. 

Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being first 
clearqd of most of the fat. 1 

Rice Small Puddings 

Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it with 
half a pint of milk till thick, 'then put with it the size of an 
egg of butter, and nearly a half a pint of thick cream, and 
give it ®ne boil. When cool, mix four yolks and two whites 
of eggs well beaten ; sweeten to taste, add nutmeg, lemon-peel 
grated fine, and a little cinnamon powdered. 

Butter litfle cups, and fill' three parts full, and putting at 
the bottom some orange or citron. Bake three quarters of an 
hour in a slow oven. Serve the moment before to be eaten, 
with sweet sauce in the dish, or a boat. 

Plain Rice Pudding 

Wash and pick some rice ; throw among it some pimento 
finely pounded, but not much ; tie the rice in a cloth, and 
leave plenty of -room for it to swell. Boil it in a quantity of 
water for an hour or two. When done, eat it with butter and 
sugar, or milk. Put lemon-peel if you please. 

It is very good without spice, and eaten with salt and 
butter. 



The Southern Cookbook 



Rice Pudding With Fruit 

Swell the rice with a very little milk over the fire ; then 
mix fruit of any kmd with it, (currants ; gooseberries scalded; 
pared and quartered apples ; raisins, or black currants :) with 
one egg into the rice, to bind it. Boil it well, and serve with 

sugar. 

Baked Rice Pudding 

Swell rice as above ; then add some more milk, an egg, 
sugar, allspice and lemon-peel. Bake in a deep dish. 

Another, for the Family 

Put into a very deep pan half a pound of rice, washed 
and picked, two ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, a few- 
allspices pounded, and two quarts of milk. Less butter will 
do. or some suet. Bake in a slow oven. 

Note — Eggs in rice pudding, if made of whole rice, causes 
the milk to turn to whey if not boiled first, and then mixed 
cool. 

Suet Puddings 

Shred a pound of suet ; mix with a pound and a quarter 
of flour, three eggs beaten separately, a little salt, and as little 
milk as will make it. Boil five hours. It eats well next day, 
cut in slices and broiled. 

A George Pudding 

Boil verv tender a handful of whole rice in a small quantity 
of milk, with a large piece of lemon-peel. Let it drain; then 
mix with it a dozen of good sized apples, boiled to pulp, and as 
dry as possible. Add a glass of white wine, the yolks of five 
eggs, and two ounces of orange and citron cut thin; make it 
pretty sweet. Line a mould or basin with a very good paste: 
beat the whites of the five eggs to a very strong froth, and mix 
with the other ingredients: fill the mould, and bake it of a fine 
brown color. Serve it with the bottom upward, with the fol- 
lowing sauce: two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar, the 



The Southern Cookbook 



49 



yolks of two eggs, and a bit of butter as large as a walnut, sim- 
mer without boiling, and pour to and from the saucepan, till 
of a proper thickness, and put it in the dish. 

Rice Piecrust 

Clean, and put some rice, with an onion and a little water 
and milk only, into a saucepan, and simmer till it swells. Put 
into a dish, and cover it with the rice. 

Rabbits fricasseed, and covered thus, are very good. 

Potato Pudding without Meat 

Boil them till fit co mash: rub through a colander and 
make a thick batter, with milk and two eggs. Lay some sea- 
soned steaks in a dish, then some batter; and over the last 
layer pour the remainder of the batter. Bake a fine brown: 

Steak, or Kidney Pudding 

If kidney, split, and soak it, and season that or the meat. 
Make a paste of suet, flour, and milk: roll it, and line a basin 
with some: put the kidney or steaks in, cover with paste, and 
pinch around the edge. Cover with a cloth, and boil a con- 
siderable time. 

Suet Dumplings 

Make as suet pudding, and drop into boiling water, or in- 
to the boiling of beef; or you may boil in a cloth. 

Apple, Currant, or Damson Dumplings, or Pudding 

Make as above, and line a basin with the paste tolerably 
thin: fill with the fruit, and cover it: tie a cloth over tight, and 
boil till the fruit shall be done enough. 

s» Snowball 

Swell rice in milk; strain it off, and having pared and 
cored apples, put the rice around them, tying each up in a 
cloth. Put a bit of lemon-peel, a clove, or cinnamon in each, 
and boil them well. 

(4) 



50 



The Southern Cookbook 



Common Plum Pudding 

The same proportions of flour and suet as in Hunters' Pud- 
ding, and half the quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass 
of wine, or not, and one egg and milk; will make an excellent 
pudding, if long boiled. 

Hunter's Pudding 

Mix, of suet, flour, currants, and raisins stoned and a little 
cut, a pound of each, the rind of lemon, shred as fine as possible, 
six Jamaica peppers in fine powder, four eggs, a glass of bran- 
dy, a little salt, and as little milk as will mske it of proper con- 
sistency. Boil it in a floured cloth, or a melon mould, eight or 
nine hours. Serve with sweet sauce; ard sometimes a spoon- 
ful of peach-water. 

This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six months, if 
kept tied up in the same cloth, and hung up, folded in a sheet 
of cap paper to preserve it from dust, being first cold. When 
to be used, it must boil a full hour. 

Custard Pudding 

Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large spoonful 
of flour, the yolks of five eggs, some orange-flower water, and 
a little pounded cinnamon. Butter a basin that will exactly 
hold it; pour the batter in, and tie a floured cloth over it.- Put 
it in boiling water, and turn it about a few minutes to prevent 
the egg going to one side. Half an hour will boil it. 

Put currant jelly on it, and serve with sweet sauce. 

A Rich Rice Pudding 

Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little bit of salt, 
till quite tender: drain it dry. Mix it with the yolks and whites 
of four eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, with two ounces of 
fresh butter melted in the latter, four ounces of beef suet, or 
marrow, or veal suet taken from a fillet of veal, finely shred, 
three quarters of a poind of currants, two spoonfuls ot brandy, 



The Souther j i Cookbook 



5i 



one of peach-water, or ratafia, nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel. 
When well, mixed, put a paste round the edge, and fill the 
dish; slices ot candied orange, lemon, and citron, if approved. 
Bake in a moderate oven. 

Millet Pudding 

Wash three spoonfuls of the seed; put it into the dish, 
with a crust around the edges, pour over it as much new milk 
as shall nearly fill the dish, two ounces of butter warmed 
with it, sugar, shred lemon, and a little scrape of ginger and 
nutmeg. As you put it in the oven, stir in two eggs beaten; 
and a spoonful of shred suet. 

An Excellent Plain Potato Pudding 

Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces of butter 
the yolks of two eggs and the whites of two eggs, a quarter of 
a pint of cream, one spoonful of white wine, a morsel of salt, 
the juice and rind of a lemon. Beat all to a froth: sugar to 
taste. A crust or not, as you like. Bake it. If wanted richer, 
put three ounces more butter, sweetmeats and almonds, and 
another egg. 

Carrot Pudding 

Beat a large carrot tender, bruise it well, and mix with it 
a tablespoonful of biscuit beaten to powder, or four Naples 
biscuit, four yolks and two whites of eggs, a pint of scalded 
cream, some rose, or orange-flower water, a little ratafia, nut- 
meg, and sugar. If you have no scalded cream, raw will do, if 
very thick. Put a little rim of paste around the dish, and bake 
it. Pat orange, lemon or citron, cut in good sized bits. 

An Excellent Apricot Pudding 

Have twelve large apricots: give them a scald till they are 
soft. Meantime pour on the grated crumbs of a penny loaf, 
and a pint of boiling cream: when half cold, four ounces of 
sugar, the yolks of four beaten eggs, and a glass of white wine 
Pound the apricots in a mortar, with some or all of the kernels: 
then mix the fruit and other ingredients together: put a paste 
around the dish, and bake the pudding half an hour. 



52 



The Southern Cookbook 



Baked Gooseberry Pudding 

Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot hearth, or in a sauce- 
pan of water, till they will pulp. Take a pint of the juice 
pressed through a sieve, and beat it with three yolks and 
whites of eggs, beaten and strained, and one ounce and a half 
of butter: sweeten it well, and put a crust around the dish. A 
few crumbs of roll should be mixed with the above to give a 
little consistency, or four ounces of Naples biscuit. 

A Green Bean Pudding 

Boil and blanch old beans, beat them in a mortar with a 
very little pepper and salt, some cream, and the yolk of an egg. 
A little spinach juice will give a finer color, but it is as good 
without. Boil it an hour in a basin that will just hold it; and 
pour parsley and butter over. 

Serve bacon to eat with it. 

Baked Almond Pudding 

Beat five ounces of almonds, four or five bitter ditto, with 
a little wine, yolks of six eggs, peel of two lemons grated, six 
ounces of butter, nearly a quart of cream, juice of one lemon 
When well mixed, bake it half an hour, with a paste around 
the dish. 

Shelford Pudding 

Mix three quarters of a pound of currants, or raisins, one 
pound of suet, one pound of flour, six eggs, a little good milk, 
some lemon-peel, and a little salt. Boil it in a melon shape six 

hours. 

Brandy' Pudding 

Line a mould with jar raisins stoned, or dried cherries, 
then with thin slices of French roll; next to which put ratafias, 
or macaroons, then the fruit, roll, and cakes in succession, un- 
til the mould be full; sprinkling in at times two glasses of 



The Sou t lie r n Cookbook 



53 



brandy. Beat four eggs, yolks and whites: put to them a pint 
of milk or cream, lightly sweetened, with half a nutmeg, and 
the rind of half a lemon finely grated. Let the liquid sink into 
the solid part; then flour a cloth, tie it tight over, and boil one 
hour ; keep the mould the right side up. 
Serve with pudding sauce. 

Buttermilk Pudding 

Warm three quarts of new milk, and turn it with a quart 
of buttermilk: when ready, drain the curd through a strainer: 
when dry, pound it in a marble mortar, with near half a pound 
of sugar, a lemon boiled tender, the crumbs of a roll grated, a 
nutmeg grated, six bitter almonds, four ounces of warm butter, 
a teacupful of good cream, the yolks of five, and whites of 
three eggs, a glass of sweet wine, and one of brandy. 

When well incorporated, bake in small cups or bowls well 
buttered. 

Serve as quick as possible wth pudding sauce. 

Curd Puddings, or Puffs 

Turn two quarts of milk to a curd ; press the whey from 
it ; rub it through a sieve, and mix four ounces of butter, the 
crums of a penny loaf, two spoonfuls of cream, half a nutmeg, 
a small quantity of sugar, and two spoonfuls of white wine. 
Butter little cups, or small pattypans, and fill them three 
parts. Orange-flower water is an improvement. Bake them 
with care. Serve with sweet sauce in a boat. 

Boiled Curd Puddings 

Rub the curd of two gallons of milk, when drained, 
through a sieve. Mix it with six eggs, a little cream, two 
spoonfuls of orange-flower water, half a nutmeg, of flour and 
crumbs of bread each three spoonfuls, currants and raisins 
half a pound of each. Boil an hour in a thick well floured 
cloth. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Small Almond Puddings 

Pound eight ounces of almonds, and a few bitter, with a 
spoonful of water ; mix with four ounces of butter warmed, 
four yolks and two whites of eggs, sugar to taste, two spoon- 
fuls of cream, and one of brandy ; mix well, and bake in little 
cups buttered. Serve with pudding saftce. . 

Excellent Light Puffs 

Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemon-peel, 
some nutmeg, half a spoonful of brandy, a little loaf sugar ; 
then fry it enough but not brown : beat it in a mortar with 
five eggs, whites and yolks ; put a quantity of lard in a frying- 
pan, and when quite hot, drop a dessert spoonful of batter at 
a time; turn as they brown. They will be large. Serve 
immediately. Sweet sauce. 

Pippin Pudding 

Coddle six pippins in vine leaves covered with water, but 
very gently, that the inside be done without breaking the 
skins. When soft, take off the skins, and with a teaspoon 
take the pulp from the core. Press it through a colander ; 
add to it two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, three eggs 
beaten in a pint of scalded cream, sugar and nutmeg to taste. 
Lay a thin puff paste at the bottom and sides of the dish ; 
shred some very thin lemon-peel as fine as possible, and put 
into the dish ; as likewise some orange and citron in small 
slices. 

Yorkshire Pudding 

Mix five spoonfuls of flour, with a quart of milk, and 
three eggs well beaten. Butter the pan. When brown by 
baking under the meat, turn the other side upwards, and 
brown that. It should be made in a square pan, and cut into 
slices to come to table. Set it over a chafing dish at first, 
and stir it some minutes. 



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55 



A Quick Made Pudding 

Flour and suet half a pound each, four eggs, a quarter of 
a pint of new milk, a little mace and nutmeg, a quarter of a 
pound of raisins, ditto of currants : mix well, and boil three 
quarters of an hour with the cover of the pot on, or it will 
require longer. 

Yeast or Suffolk Dumplings 

Make a very light dough with yeast, as for bread, but 
with milk instead of water, and put salt. Let it rise an hour 
before the fire. 

Twenty minutes before yon are to serve, have ready a 
large stewpan of boiling water, make the dough into balls, 
the size of a small apple, throw them in, and boil twenty 
minutes. If you doubt when done enough, stick a clean fork 
into one, and if it comes out clear, it is done. 

The way to eat them is to tear them apart on the top 
with two forks, for they become heavy by their own steam. 
Eat immediately with meat, or sugar and butter, or salt. 

Russian Seed, or Ground Rice Pudding 

Boil a large spoonful heaped of either a pint of new milk, 
with lemon-peel and cinnamon. When cold add sugar, nut- 
meg, and two eggs, well beaten. Bake with crust around the 
dish. 

Observations on Making Pudding 

The outside of a boiled pudding often tastes disagreeable, 
which arises from the cloth not being nicely washed, and 
kept in a dry place. It should be dipped in boiling water, 
squeezed dry, and floured when it is to be used. 

If bread, it should be tied loose ; if batter, tight over. 

The water should boil quick when the pudding is put in ; 
and it should be moved about for a minute, lest the ingredi- 
ents should not mix. 



56 



The Southern Cookbook 



Butter pudding should be strained through a coarse 
sieve, when all is mixed, In others, the eggs separately. 

The pans and basins must be always buttered. 

A pan of cold water should be ready, and the pudding 
dipped in as soon as it comes out of the pot, and then it will 
not adhere to the cloth. 



v 



The Southern Cookbook 



57 



SWEET DISHES 

Lemon Custards 

Beat the yolks of eight eggs till they are as white as 
milk ; then put to- them a pint of boiling water, the rinds of 
two lemons grated, and the juice sweetened to your taste. 
Stir it on the fire till thick enough, then add a large glass of 
rich wine, and half a glass of brandy ; give the whole one 
scald, and put it in cups, to be eaten cold. 

Lent Potatoes 

Beat three or four ounces of almonds, and three or four 
bitter, when blanched, putting a little orange-flower water to 
prevent oiling : add eight ounces of butter, four eggs well 
beaten and strained, half a glass of raisin wine, sugar to your 
taste. Beat as well till quite smooth and grate in three 
savoy biscuits. Make balls of the above, with a little flour, 
the size of a chestnut ; throw them into a stewpan of boiling 
lard and boil them of a beautiful yellow brown. Drain them 
on a sieve. 

Serve sweet sauce in a boat, to eat with them. 

Rice Flummery- 
Boil with a pint of new milk, and a bit of lemon-peel, 
and cinnamon : mix with a little cold milk, as much rice flour, 
as will make the whole of a good consistence : sweeten, and 
add a spoonful of peach-water, or a bitter almond beaten. 
Boil it, observing it does not burn. Pour it into a shape or 
pint basin, taking out the spice. When cold, turn the flum- 
mery in a dish, and serve with cream, milk, or custard around; 
or put a teaspoonful of cream into half a pint of new milk, a 
glass of raisin wine, a little sugar, and a squeeze of lemon. 

Curds and Cream 

Turn to curd three or four pints of milk with rennet ; 
break it, and let the whey run out, then pour it into a basin 
and when to be served, put it on a dish with some cream, or 
fine milk, either plain or sweetened. 



The Soutftem Cookbook 



Another Way 

To four quarts of new milk warmed, put from a pint to a 
quart buttermilk strained, according to its sourness ; keep the 
pan covered until the curd be of a firmness to cut three or 
four times across with a saucer, as the whey leaves it : put it 
into a shape, and fill up until it be solid enough to take the 
form. Serve with cream plain, or mixed with sugar, wine, 
and lemon. 

London Syllabub 

Put a pint of port wine into a bow], nutmeg grated, and a 
good deal of sugar, then milk, into it nearly two quarts of 
milk, frothed up. If the wine be not rather sharp, it will 
require more for this quantity of milk. 

Staffordshire Syllabub 

Put a pint of cider, and a glass of brandy, sugar, and 
nutmeg into a bowl, and milk into it ; or pour warm milk 
from a large teapot some height into it. 

Devonshire Junket 

Put warm milk into a bowi ; turn it with rennet ; then 
put some scalded cream, sugar and cinnamon on the top, 
without breaking the curd. 

A very fine Somersetshire Syllabub 

In a large China bowl put a pint of port, and a pint of 
sherrv, or other white wine, sugar to taste. Milk the bowl 
full. In twenty minutes cover it pretty high with clouted 
cream : grate over it nutmeg : put pounded cinnamon and 
nonpareil comfits. 

Sack Cream 

Boil a pint of raw cream, the volk of an egg well beaten, 
two or three spoonfuls of white wine, sugar, lemon-peel ; stir 
it over a gentle fire till it be as thick as rich cream ; put it in 
a dish, and serve it cold, garnished with rusks or sippets of 
toasted bread. 



The Southern Cookbook 



59 



A Froth to set on Cream, Custards, or Trifles, which 
Looks and Eats Well 

Sweeten half a pound of the pulp of damsons, or any 
other sort of scalded fruit : put it to the whites of four eggs 
beaten, and beat the pulp with them, until it will stand as 
high as you choose ; and being put on the cream, etc., with a 
spoon, it will take any form. It should be rough to imitate a 
rock. 

Floating Island 

Mix three half pints of thin cream with a quarter of a 
pint of raisin wine, a little lemon juice, orange-flower water, 
and sugar ; and put into a dish for the middle of the table, 
and put on the cream a froth like the above, which may be 
made of raspberry or currant jelly. 

Another Way 

Scald a codlin before it be ripe, or any sharp apple, and 
pulp it through a sieve. Beat the whites of two eggs with 
sugar, and a spoonful of orange-water ; mix in by degrees 
the pulp, and beat all together until you have a large quantity 
of froth. Serve it on a raspberry cream ; or you may color the 
froth with beet-root, raspberry, or currant jelly, and set it on 
a white cream, having given it the flavor of lemon, sugar, and 
wine as above ; % or, put the froth on a custard. 

Everlasting, or Solid Syllabubs 

Mix a quart of thick raw cream, one pound of refined 
sugar, a pint of white, and half a pint of sweet wine in a deep 
pan : put to it the grated peel and the juice of three lemons. 
Beat, or whisk it one way half an hour, then put it into glasses. 
It will keep good, in a cool place, ten days. 

Yellow Lemon Cream, without Cream 

Pare four lemons very thin into twelve large spoonfuls of 
water, and squeeze the juice on seven ounces of finely pounded 
sugar : beat the yolks of nine eggs well ; add the peels and 



6o 



The Southern Cookbook 



juice beaten together for some time ; then strain it through a 
flannel into a silver or very nice block-tin saucepan ; set it 
over a gentle fire, and stir it one way till pretty thick, and 
scalding hot, but not boiling, or it will curdle. Pcuritinto 
jelly glasses. A few lumps of sugar should be rubbed hard 
on the lemons' peel before they are pared, or after, as the peel 
will be so thin as not to take all the essence, and the sugar 
will attract it, and give a better color and flavor. 

White Lemon Cream 

Is made the same as the above ; only put the whites of the 
eggs in lieu of the yolks, whisking it extremely well to froth. 

Lemon Cream 

Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yolks of two 
eggs well beaten, four ounces of fine sugar, and the thin rind 
of a lemon, boil it up, then stir it till almost cold. Put the 
juice of a lemon in a dish or bowl, and pour the cream upon 
it, stirring it till quite cold. 

An Excellent Cream 

Whip up three quarters of a pint of rich cream to a strong 
froth, with some finely scraped lemon-peel, a squeeze of the 
juice, half a glass of sweet wine, and sugar to make it pleasant 
but not sweet. Lay it on a sieve or in a form, and next day 
put it on a dish, and ornament it with very light puff paste 
biscuits, made in tin shapes the length of a finger, and about 
two thick, over which sugar may be strewed or a light glaze 
with isinglass. Or you may use macaroons. 

Blancmange or Blamage 

Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of water 
half an hour ; strain it to a pint and a half of cream ; sweeten 
it, and add some peach water or a few bitter almonds ; let it 
boil once up and put it into what forms you please. If not 
to be very stiff, a little less isinglass will do. Observe to let 
the blamage settle before you turn it out of the forms, or 
the blacks will remain at the bottom of them, and be on top 
of the blamage when taken out of the moulds. 



The Southern Cookbook 61 



Dutch Flummery 

Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of water 
very gently half an hour : add a pint of white wine, the juice of 
three and the thin rind of one lemon, and rub a few lumps 
of sugar on another lemon to obtain the essence ; and with 
them add as much more sugar as shall make it sweet enough. 
Having beaten the yolks of seven eggs, give them and the 
above, when mixed, one scald, stir all the time, and pour it 
into a basin. Stir it till half cold, and then let it settle, and 
put it into a melon shape. 

Calf s Feet Jelly 

Boil two feet in five pints of water till the feet are broken, 
and the water half wasted ; strain it, and when cold, take off 
the fat, and remove the jelly from the sediment ; then put it 
into a saucepan, with sugar, raisin wine, lemon-juice to your 
taste, and some lemon-peel. When the flavor is rich, put to 
it the whites of five eggs well beaten, and their shells broken. 
Set the saucepan on the fire,, but do not stir the jelly after it 
begins to warm. Let it boil twenty minutes after it rises to 
a head, then pour it through a fannel jelly-bag ; first dipping 
the bag in hot water to prevent waste, and squeezing it quite 
dry. Run the jelly through and through until clear ; then 
put it into glasses or forms. 

Observe, that the feet for all jellies should be only scalded 
to take off the hair ; not bought boiled, which is the usual 
way : but the following mode will greatly facilitate the clearing 
of the jelly : when the mixture has boiled twenty minutes, 
throw in a teacupful of cold water ; let it boil five minutes 
longer ; then take the saucepan off the fire, cover it close, and 
keep it half an hour : after which, it will be so clear as to 
need only once running through the bag, and much waste will 
be saved. 



62 



The Southern Cookbook 



Observe, feet for all jellies are boiled so long by the peo- 
ple who sell them, that the nutritions juices are lessened ; 
they should be only scalded to take off the hairs. The liquor 
will require greater care in removing the fat ; but the jelly 
will be far stronger, and, of course, allow more water. 

Another Sort 

Boil four quarts of water with calf's feet that have been 
only scalded, till half wasted ; take the jelly from the fat and 
sediment, mix with it the juice of an orange, and twelve 
lemons, the peel of three, the whites and shells of twelve eggs; 
brown sugar to taste, nearly a pint of raisin wine, one ounce 
of corriander-seed, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, a bit of 
cinnamon, and six cloves, all bruised, after having previously 
mixed them cold. The jelly should boil fifteen minutes with- 
out stirring ; then clear it through a flannel bag. While run- 
ning take a little jelly, and mix with a teacupful of water in 
which a bit of beet-root has been boiled, and run it through 
the bag when all the rest is run out ; and this is to garnish 
the other jelly, being cooled on a plate ; but this is matter of 
choice. 

Orange Jelly 

Grate the rind of two Seville and two China oranges, and 
two lemons; squeeze the juice of three of each, and strain, 
and add the juice to quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and a 
quarter of a pint of water, and boil till it almost candies. 
Have ready *a quart of isinglass jelly made with two ounces, 
put it to the syrup, and boil it once up ; strain off the jelly, 
and let it stand to settle as above before it is put into the 
mould. 

Hartshorn Jelly 

Simmer eight ounces of hartshorn shavings with two 
quarts of water to one ; strain it, and boil it with the rinds of 
four China oranges and two lemons pared .thin ; when cooh 



The Sou I hen i Cookbovk 



63 



add the juice of both, half a pound of sugar, and the whites of 
six eggs beaten to a froth ; let the jelly have three or four 
boils without stirring, and strain it through a jelly bag. 

Imperial Cream 

Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a lemon, then 
stir it until nearly cold ; have ready in a dish or bowl that you 
are to serve in, the juice of three lemons strained with as 
much sugar as will sweeten the cream ; which pour into the 
dish from a large teapot, holding it high and moving it about 
to mix the juice. It should be made at least six hours before 
it is served. 

A Cream 

Boil half a pint of cream, and half a pint of milk, and 
two bay-leaves, a bit of lemon-peel, a few almonds beaten to a 
paste, with a drop of water, a little sugar, orange-flower water, 
and a teapoonful of flour, having been rubbed down with the 
above. When cold, put a little lemon-juice to the cream, and 
serve it in cups or lemonade glasses. 

Snow Cream 

Put to a quart of cream the whites of three eggs well 
beaten, four spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and 
a bit of lemon-peel : whip it to a froth, remove the peel, and 
serve in a dish. 

Cheap and Excellent Custards 

Boil three pints of new milk, with a bit of lemon-peel, 
a bit of cinnamon, two or three bay leaves, and sweeten it. 
Meanwhile smooth a large spoonful of rice flour into a cup 
of cold milk, and mix with it two yolks of eggs well beaten 
Take a basin of the boiling milk, and mix with the cold, and 
then pour that to the boiling; stirring it oneway, till it be- 
gins to thicken, and is just going to boil up; then pour it 
into a pan, stir it sometimes, add a large spoonful of peach 
water, two teaspoonfuls of brandy, or a little ratafia. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Richer Custard 

Boil a pint of milk with lemqn-r^ekand cinnamon ; mix a 
pint of cream, and the yolks of five eggs well beaten. When 
the milk tastes of the seasoning, sweeten it enough for the 
whole, pour it into the cream, stirring well, then give the 
custard a simmer till of a proper thickness. Do not let it 
boil. Stir the whole time one way : season as above. 

Almond Cream 

Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few bitter, m 
a mortar, with a teaspoonful of water to prevent oiling, both 
having been blanched. Put the paste to a quart of cream, 
and add the juice of three lemons sweetened ; beat it up with 
a whisk to a froth, which take off on the shallow part of the 
sieve. Fill glasses with some of the liquor and the froth. 

Brandy Cream 

Boil two dozen of almond blanches, and pounded bitter 
almonds in a little milk. When cold, add it to the yolks of 
five eggs beaten well in a little cream ; sweeten, and put to it 
two glasses of best brandy ; and when well mixed, pour to it 
a quart of thin cream. Set it over the fire, but- do not let 
it boil. Stir one way till it thickens, then pour into cups, or 
low glasses. When cold, it will be ready. A ratafia drop 
may be put in each ; if you choose it. If you wish to keep it, 
scald the cream previously. 

A Pretty Supper Dish 

Boil a teacupful of rice, having first washed it in milk, 
till tender : strain off the milk, lay the rice in little heaps on a 
dish ; strew over them some finely powdered sugar and cinna- 
mon, and put warm wine and a little butter into the dish. 

Wine Roll 

Soak a penny French roll in raisin wine till it will hold 
on more : put it in the dish, and pour around it a custard, or 



The Southern Cookbook 



65 



cream, sugar, and lemon-juice. Just before it is served, 
sprinkle over it some nonpareil comfits ; or stick a few 
blanched and slit almonds into it. 

Sponge biscuit may be used instead of the roll. 

Rice and Sago Milks 

Are made by washing the seeds nicely, and over a slow 
fire simmering with milk till sufficiently done. The foimer 
sort requires lemon, spice and sugar: the latter is fine with- 
out anything to flavor it. 

An Excellent Trifle 

Lay macaroons and ratafia drops over the bottom of your 
dish, and pour in as much raisin wine as they will suck up ; 
which, when they have done pour on them cold rich custard, 
made with more eggs than directed in the foregoing pages, 
and some rice flour. It must stand two or three inches thick. 
On that put a layer of raspberry jam, and cover the whole 
with a very high whip made the day before, of rich cream, 
the whites of two well beaten eggs, sugar, lemon-peel, and 
raisin wine. If made the day before used, it has quite a 
different taste, and is solid and far better. 

Burnt Cream 

Boil a pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon, and some 
lemon-peel ; take it off the fire, and pour it very slowly into 
the yolks of four eggs, stirring till half cold : sweeten, and 
take out the spice, etc. Pour it into the dish ; when cold, 
strew white pounded sugar over, and brown it with a sala- 
mander. 

Lemon Honeycomb 

Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and put it in 
the dish that you serve in. Mix the white of an egg that is 
well beaten with a pint of rich cream, and a little sugar ; 
whisk it, and as the froth rises put it on the lemon-juice. 

Do it the day before it is to be used, 

(5) 



66 The Southern Cookbook 

Coffee Cream, Much Admired 

Boil a calf's foot in water till it wastes to a pint of jelly : 
Clear it of sediment and fat. Make a teacup of veiy strong 
coffee ; clear it with a bit of isinglass to be perfectly bright ; 
pour it to the jelly, and add a pint of very good cream, and as 
much fine Lisbon sugar as is pleasant. Give one boil up, and 
pour into the dish. It should jelly, but not be stiff. Ob- 
serve that your coffee is fresh. 

Orange Fool 

Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three eggs well 
beaten, a pint of cream, a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and 
sweeten to your taste. Set the whole over a slow fire, and 
stir till it becomes as thick as good melted butter, but it 
must not be boiled ; then pour it into a dish for eating cold, 

Gooseberry Fool 

Put the fruit into a stone jar, and some good Lisbon 
sugar with them ; set the jar on a stove, or in a saucepan of 
water over the fire ; if the former, a large spoonful of water 
should be added to the fruit. When it is done enough to 
pulp, press it through a colander ; have ready a sufficient 
quantity of new milk, and a teacup of raw cream boiled 
together ; or an egg instead of the latter, and left to be cold ; 
then sweeten it pretty well with fine Lisbon sugar, and mix 
the pulp by degrees with it. 

Apple Fool 

Stew apples as directed for gooseberries, and then peel 
and pulp them. Prepare the milk, etc., and mix as before. 



The Southern Cookbook 



6 7 



CAKES 

Observations on Making Cakes 

Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in a cloth, 
and then set before the fire. If damp, they will make cakes 
or puddings heavy. Before they are added, a dust of dry 
flour should be thrown among them, and a shake given to 
them which causes the thing that they are put to, to be 
lighter. 

Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yolks apart, 
and always strained. Sugar should be rubbed to a powder on 
a clean board, and sifted through a very fine hair sieve. 

Lemon-peel should be pared very thin, and with a little 
sugar beaten in a marble mortar to a paste, and then mixed 
with a little wine or cream, so as to divide easily among the 
other ingredients. After all the articles are put into the pan 
they should be thoroughly and long beaten as the lightness of 
the cake depends much on their being well incorporated. 
Whether black or white plum-cakes, they require less butter 
than eggs for having yeast, and eat equally light and rich. If 
the leaven be only of flour, milk and water and yeast, it be- 
comes tough, and is less easily divided, and if the butter be 
first put with these ingredients, and the dough afterwards set 
to rise by the fire. 

The heat of the oven is of great importance for cakes, 
especially those that are large. If not pretty quick the bat- 
ter will not rise. Should you fear its scorching by being too 
quick, put some paper over the cake to prevent its being 
burnt. If not long enough lighted to have a body of heat, or 
if it has become slack, the cake will be heavy. To know when 
it is soaked, take a broad blade knife, that is very bright and 
plunge into the very center, draw instantly out, and if the 
least stickiness adheres, put the cake immediately in and shut 
the oven. If the heat was sufficient to raise but not to soak, 
I have with great success had a fresh fuel quickly put in, and 



68 



The Southern Cookbook 



kept the cakes hot till the oven was fit to finish the soaking, 
and they turned out extremely well. But those who are em- 
ployed should be particularly careful that no mistake occur 
from negligence when large cakes are to be baked. 

Plum-Cake 

Mix thoroughly a quarter of a peck of fine flour well 
dried, with a pound of dry and sifted loaf sugar, three pounds 
of currants washed and very dry, half a pound of raisins stoned 
and chopped, a quarter of an ounce of mace and cloves, twen- 
ty Jamaica peppers, a grated nutmeg, the peel of a lemon cut 
as fine as possible, and half a pound of almonds blanched, and 
beaten with orange-flower water. Melt two pounds of butter 
in a pint and a quarter of cream, but not hot, put to it a pint 
of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the whites and yolks of 
twelve eggs beaten apart, and half a pint of good yeast. 
Strain this liquid by degrees into the dry ingredients, beating 
them together a full hour, then butter the hcop or pan, and 
bake it. As you put the batter into the hoop, or pan. throw 
in plenty of citron, lemon, and orange candy. 

If you ice the cake, take half a pound of double refined 
sugar sifted, and put a little with the white of an egg, beat it 
well, and by degrees pour in the remainder. It must be 
whisked near an hour, with the addition of a little orange-flower 
water, but mind not to put too much. When the cake is 
done, pour the icing over, and return it to the oven for 
fifteen minutes, but if the oven be warm, keep it near the 
mouth, and the door open, lest the color be spoiled. 

Another Plum-Cake 

Flour dried, and currants washed and picked, four pounds 
sugar pounded and sifted one pound and a half, six oranges, 
lemon, and citron-peels cut in slices, mix these. Beat ten 
eggs, yolks and whites separate!}", then melt a pound and a 
half of butter m a pint of cream, when lukewarm put it to 
half a pint of ale yeast, near half a pint of sweet wine, and the 



The Southern Cookbook 



6 9 



eggs, then strain the liquid to the dry ingredients, beat them 
well and add the cloves, mace, cinnamon and nutmeg, half'an 
ounce each. Butter the pan, and put it into a quick oven. 
Three hours will bake it. 

A Very Fine Cake 

Wash two pounds and a half of fresh butter in water first, 
and then in rose-water; beat the butter to a cream, beat twenty 
eggs, yolks and whites separately, half an hour each. Have 
ready two pounds and a half of the finest flour, well dried and 
kept hot, likewise a pound and a half of sugar pounded and 
sifted, one ounce of spice in the finest powder, three pounds 
of currants nicely cleaned and dry, half a pound of almonds 
blanched, and three quarters of a pound of sweetmeat cut not 
too thin. Let all be kept by the fire, mix all the dry ingre- 
dients, pour the eggs strained to the butter, mix half a pint of 
sweet wine, with a large glass of brandy, pour it to the butter 
and eggs, mix well, then have all the dry things put in by 
degrees, beat them very thoroughly; you can hardly do it too 
much. Having half a pound of stoned jar raisins chopped 
fine as possible, mix them carefully, so that there will be 
no lumps. Beat the ingredients together a full hour at least. 
Have a hoop well buttered, or if you have none, a tin or 
copper bake-pan, take a white paper, doubled and buttered and 
put in the pan around the edge, if the cake batter fills it more 
than three parts, for space should be allowed for rising. Bake 
in a quick oven. It will require three hours. 

An Excellent and Less Expensive Cake 

Rub two pounds of dry fine flour, with one of butter, 
washed in plain and rose-water, mix it with three spoonfuls of 
yeast in a little warm milk and water. Set it to rise an hour 
and a half before the fire, then beat into it two pounds 
of currants, one pound of sugar sifted, four ounces of 
almonds, six ounces of stoned raisins, chopped fine, half a 
nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and a few cloves, the peel of a 



70 



The Southern Cookbook 



lemon chopped as fine as possible, a glass of wine, ditto of 
brandy, twelve yolks and whites of eggs beat separately and 
long, orange, citron, and lemon. Beat exceedingly well and 
butter the pan; a quick oven. 

A very Good Common Cake 

Rub eight ounces of butter into two pounds of dried 
flour, mix it with three spoonfuls of yeast that is not bitter, 
to a paste. Let it rise an hour and a half, then mix in the 
yolks and whites of six eggs beaten apart, one pound of 
sugar, some milk to make it a proper thickness, ( about a 
pint will be sufficient ) a glass of sweet wine, the rind of a 
lemon, and a teaspoonful of ginger. Add either a pound and 
a half of currants, or some caraways, and beat well. 

A Cheap Seed Cake 

Mix a quarter of a peck of flour with a pound of sugar, 
a quarter of an ounce of allspice, and a little ginger; melt 
three quarters of a pound of butter with half a pint of milk, 
when just warm put to it a quarter of a pint of yeast, and 
work up to a good dough. Let it stand before the fire a few 
minutes before it goes to the oven, add seeds or currants and 
bake an hour and a half. 

Another 

Mix a pound and a half of common lump sugar, eight eggs 
beaten separately, an ounce of seeds, two spoonfuls of yeast, 
and the same of milk and water. Note — milk alone causes 
bread and cake soon to dry. 

Common Bread Cake 

Take a quantity of a quartern loaf from the dough when 
making white bread, and knead well into two ounces of butter, 
two of Lisbon sugar, and eight of currants. Warm the butter 
in a teaspoonful of good milk. By the addition of an ounce of 
butter, or sugar, or an egg or two, you may make the cake 
better. A teaspoonful of raw cream improves it much. It 
is best to bake in a pan, rather than as a loaf, the outside 
being less hard. 



The Southern Cookbook 



7* 



A Good Pound Cake 

Beat a pound of butter to a cream, and mix with it the 
whites and yolks of eight eggs beaten apart. Have ready 
warm by the fire, a pound of flour and the same of sifted 
sugar, mix them and a few cloves, a little nutmeg and cinna- 
mon in fine powder together, then by degrees, work the dry 
ingredients into the butter and eggs. When well beaten, add 
a glass of wine, and some caraways. It must be beaten a 
full half hour. Butter a pan, and bake it a full hour in a 
quick oven. 

The above proportions, leaving out four ounces of the 
buttter, and the same of sugar, make a less delicious cake. 

Queen Cakes 

Mix a pound of dried flour, the same of sifted sugar, and 
of washed clean currants, wash a pound of butter in rose-water, 
beat it well, then mix with it eight eggs, yolks and whites 
beaten separately, add and put in the dry ingredients by 
degrees. Beat the whole an hour, butter little tins, teacups 
or saucers, and bake the batter in, filling only half. Sift a 
little fine sugar over, just as you put into the oven. 

Queen Cakes, Another Way 

Beat eight ounces of butter, and mix with two well 
beaten eggs, strained, mix eight ounces of dried flour, and the 
same of lump sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon, then add 
the whole together, and beat full half an hour with a silver 
spoon. Butter some small patty-pans, half fill, and bake 
twenty minutes in a quick oven. 

A Common Cake 

Mix three quarters of a pound of flour with half a pound 
of butter, four ounces of sugar, four eggs, half an ounce of 
caraways, and a glass of raisin wine, beat it well and bake it 
in a quick oven. Fine Lisbon sugar will do. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Shrewsbury Cakes 

Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon, and a 
nutmeg grated, into three pounds of flour, the finest sort, add 
a little rose-water to three eggs well beaten, and mix these 
with the flour, etc. Then pour into it as much butter melted 
as will make it a good thickness to roll out. Mould it well, 
and roll thin, and cut it into such shapes as you like. 

Little White Cakes 

Dry half a pound of flour, rub into it a very little pounded 
sugar, one ounce of butter, one egg, a few caraways, and as 
much milk and water as to make a paste, roll it thin, and cut 
it with the top of a cannister or glass. Bake fifteen minutes 
on tin plates. 

Tea Cakes 

Rub fine four ounces of butter into eight ounces of flour, 
mix eight ounces of currants and six of fine Lisbon sugar, two 
yolks and one white of an egg and a spoonful of brandy. Roll 
the paste the thickness of an Oliver biscuit, and cut with a 
wine glass. You may beat the other white and wash over 
them, and either dust sugar or not, as you like. 

Very good Common Plum-Cake 

Rub into three pounds of dried flour four ounces of butter, 
and five ounces of fine Lisbon sugar, add six ounces of cur- 
rants, washed and dried, and some pimento finely powered, put 
three spoonfuls of yeast into a Winchester pint of new milk 
warmed, and mix into a light dough with the above. Make it 
into twelve cakes and bake on a floured tin half an hour. 

Benton Tea Cakes 

Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and milk, roll as 
thin as possible, and bake on a bake-stone over the fire, or on 
a hot hearth.. 



The Southern Cookbook 



73 



Another sort as Biscuit 

Rub into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, and-tbree 
large spoonfuls of yeast, and make into a paste, with a suf- 
ficient quantity of new milk, make into biscuit and prick them 
with a clean fork. 

Another Sort 

Melt six or seven ounces of butter with a sufficiency of 
flour into a stiff paste, roll thin, and make into biscuits. 

Hard Biscuit 

Warm two ounces of butter in as much skimmed milk as 
will make a pound of flour into a very stiff paste, beat it with 
a rolling pin, and work it very smooth. Roll it thin, and cut 
it into round biscuits, prick them full of holes with a fork, and 
six minutes will bake them. 

Flat Cakes that will Keep Long and Good in the House 

Mix two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, and one 
ounce of caraways, with four or five eggs, and a few spoonfuls 
of water to make a stiff paste, roll it thin, and cut into any 
shape. Bake on tins lightly floured. While baking, boil a 
pound of sugar in a pint of water to a thin syrup ; while both 
are hot, dip each cake into it, and put them on tins into the 
oven to dry for a short time, and when the oven is cooler still, 
return them there again, and let them stay four or five hours. 

Plain and Very Crisp Biscuits 

Make a pound of flour; the yolk of an egg, and some milk, 
into a very stiff paste, beat it well, and knead till quite smooth, 
roll it very thin, and cut into biscuits. Bake them in a slow 
oven, till quite dry and crisp. 

Little Plum-Cakes to Keep Long 

Dry one pound of flour, and mix with six ounces of but- 
ter to a cream, and add to three eggs well beaten, half a pound 



74 



The Sou them i Cookbook 



of currants washed and nicely dried, and the flour and sugar, 
beat all for some time, then dredge flour on tin plates, and 
drop the batter on them the size of a walnut. If properly 
mixed, it will be a stiff paste. Bake in a brisk oven. 

Rusks 

Beat seven eggs well, and mix with half a pint of new 
milk, in which has been melted four ounces of butter, add to 
it a quarter of a pint of yeast, and three ounces of sugar, and 
put them by degrees, into as much flour as will make a very 
light paste, rather like a batter, and let it rise before the fire 
half an hour, then add some more flour to make it stiffer, but 
not stiff. Work it well and divide it into small loaves or 
cakes, about five or six inches wide, and flatten them. When 
baked and cold, slice them the thickness of rusks and put them 
in the oven to brown a little. 

Note — The cakes when first baked, eat deliriously but- 
tered for tea, or with caraways to eat cold. 

A Biscuit Cake 

One pound of flour, five eggs well beaten, and strained, 
eight ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange-flower water, 
beat the whole thoroughly, and bake one hour. 

Crack-nuts 

Mix eight ounces of flour and eight ounces of sugar, melt 
four ounces of butter in two spoonfuls of raisin wine, then 
with four eggs beaten and strained, make into a paste, add 
caraways, roll out as thin as paper, cut with the top of a 
glass, wash with the white of an egg, and dust sugar over. 

Water Cakes 

Dry three pounds of fine flour, and rub into it one pound, 
of sugar sifted, one pound of butter, and one ounce of cara- 
way seed. Make into a paste with three quarters of a pint of 
boiling milk, roll very thin, and cut into the size you choose, 
punch full of holes, and bake on tin plates in a cool oven. 



The Southern Cookbook 75 

Cracknels 

Mix with a quart of flour half a nutmeg grated, the yolks 
of four eggs beaten with four spoonfuls of rose-water, into a 
stiff paste with cold water, then roll in a pound of butter and 
make them into a cracknel shape, put them into a kettle of 
boiling water, and boil them till they swim, then take out, 
and put them into cool water; when hardened, lay them out to 
dry, and bake on tin plates. 

Rice Cakes 

t 

Mix ten ounces of ground rice, three ounces of flour, 
eight ounces of powdered sugar, then sift by degrees into 
eight yolks and six whites of eggs, and the peel of a lemon 
shred so fine that it is quite mashed. Mix the whole well in 
a tin stew-pan over a very slow fire with a whisk, then put it 
immediately into the oven in the same, and bake forty minutes. 

Another Rice Cake 

Beat twelve yolks and six whites of eggs with the peels 
of two lemons grated. Mix one pound of flour of rice, eight 
ounces of flour, and one pound of sugar pounded and sifted, 
then beat it well with the eggs by degrees, for an hour with a 
wooden spoon, butter a pan well, and put it in at the oven 
mouth. A gentle oven will bake it in an hour and a half. 

Sponge Cake 

Weigh ten eggs, and their weight in very fine sugar, and 
that of six in flour, and the whites alone in a very stiff froth, 
then by degrees mix the whites and the flour with the other 
ingredients, and beat them well half an hour ; bake in a quick 
oven an hour. 

Another, Without Butter 

Dry one pound of flour and one and a quarter of sugar, 
beat seven eggs, yolks and whiles apart, grate lemon, and 
with a spoonful of brandy, beat the whole together with your 
hand half an hour. Bake in a buttered pan, and a quick oven. 
Sweetmeats may be added, if approved. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Macaroons 

Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound with four 
spoonfuls of orange-flower water, whisk the white of four eggs 
to a froth, then mix it, and a pound of sugar sifted, with the 
almonds to paste, and laying a sheet of wafer paper on a tin' 
put it on different little cakes the shape of macaroons. 

Wafers 

Dry the flour well which you intend to use, mix a little 
pounded sugar, and finely pounded mace with it, then make 
it into a thick batter with cream, butter the wafer irons, let 
them be hot, put a teaspoonful of the batter into them, bake 
them carefully, and roll them off the iron with a stick 

Turnbridge Cakes 

Rub six ounces of butter quite fine into a pound of flour, 
then mix six ounces of sugar, beat and strain two eggs, and 
make with the above into a paste. Roll it very thin, and cut 
with the top of a glass, prick them with a fork, and cover with 
caraways, or wash with the white of an egg and dust a little 
white sugar over. 

Ginger-bread 

Mix with two pounds of flour, half a pound of treacle, 
three quarters of a pound of caraways, one ounce of ginger 
finely sifted, and ten ounces of butter. 

Roll the paste into what form you please, and bake on 

tins. 

Another Sort 

To three quarters of a pound of treacle, beat one egg 
strained, mix four ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of 
ginger sifted, of cloves, mace, allspice, and nutmeg a quarter 
of an ounce, melt one pound of butter, and mix with the 
above, and add as much flour as will knead into a pretty 
paste, then roll it out, and cut into cakes. 

Bake on tin plates in a quick oven. A little time will 
bake them. 



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77 



To Make a Good Ginger-bread without Butter 

Mix two pounds of treacle, of orange, lemon cition, and 
candied ginger, each four ounces, all finely sliced, one ounce 
of coriander seeds, one ounce of caraways, and one ounce of 
beaten ginger, in as much flour as will make a soft paste, lay 
it in cakes on tin plates, and it will be good for some months. 

Note. If cake or biscuit be kept in .paper or a drawer, 
the taste will be disagreeable. A pan and cover or tureen 
will preserve them long and moist, or if to be crisp, laying 
them before the fire makes them so. 

A Good Plain Bun that May Be Eaten with or without Toasting 

and Butter 

Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, four 
ounces of sugar, a nutmeg, or not as you like, a few Jamaica 
peppers, a dessert spoonful or two of cream into a cup of 
yeast, and as much good milk as will make the above into a 
light paste. Set it to rise by a fire, till the oven is ready. 
They will quickly bake on tins. 

Richer Buns 

Mix one pound and a half of dried flour with half a pound 
of sugar, melt a pound and two ounces of butler in a little 
warm water, add six spoonfuls of rose-water, and knead the 
above into a light dough, with half a pint of yeast, then mix 
five ounces of caraway comfits in, and put some on them. 

Muffins 

Mix two pounds of flour with two eggs, two ounces of 
butter melted in a pint of milk, and four or five spoonfuls of 
yeast, beat it thoroughly, and set it to rise two or three hours. 
Bake on a hot hearth in flat cakes. When done on one side 
turn them. 

Note. Muffins, rolls or bread, if stale may be made to 
taste new, by dipping in cold water, and toasting or heating 
in an oven, or Dutch oven, till the outside be crimped. 



78 



The Southern Cookbook 



French Rolls 

Rub an ounce of butter into a pound of flour, mix one 
egg beaten, a little yeast that is not bitter, and as much milk 
as will make a dough of a middling stiffness. Beat it well 
do not knead, let it rise, and bake on tins. 

Brentford Rolls 

Mix with two pounds of flour, a little salt, two ounces of 
sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, and two eggs beaten with 
two spoonfuls of yeast, and about a pint of milk ; knead the 
dough well, and set it to rise before the fire. Make twelve 
rolls, butter tin plates, and set them before the fire to rise till 
they become a proper size, then bake a half an hour. 

Excellent Rolls 

Warm one ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, put to 
it a spoonful and a half of yeast of small beer and a little salt. 
Put two pounds of flour into a pan, and mix into seven rolls, 
and bake in a quick oven. 

If made in cakes three inches thick sliced and buttered, 
they resemble Sally Lunns as made at Bath. 

The foregoing recipe, with the addition of a little saffron, 
boiled in half a teacup of milk makes it remarkably good. 

Saffron Cakes to Eat Hot with Potato Butter 

Boil three pounds of potatoes, bruise and work them with 
two ounces of butter, and as much milk as will make them 
pass through a colander. Take half or three quarters of a 
pint of warm water, mix with the potatoes, then pour the 
whole upon five pounds of flour, and add some salt. Knead 
it well ; if not of a proper consistency, put a little more milk 
and water warm. Let it stand before the fire half an hour to 
rise. Work it well, and make into rolls. Bake about half an 
hour in an oven, not quite so hot as for bread. 

They eat well toasted and buttered. 



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79 



Yorkshire Cake 

Take two pounds of flour and mix with it four ounces of 
butter melted in a pint of good milk, three spoonfuls of yeast 
and two eggs, beat all well together, and let it rise, then 
knead it and make into cakes, let them rise on tins before you 
bake, which do in a slow oven. 

Another sort is made as above, leaving out butter. 

The first sort is shorter, the last lighter. 

French Bread 

With a quarter of a peck of fine flour mix the yolks of 
three and whites of two eggs, beaten and strained, a little 
salt, half a pint of good yeast that is not bitter, and as much 
milk, made a little warm as will work into a thin, light dough. 
Stir it about, but do not knead it. Have ready three quart 
wooden dishes, divide the dough among them, set them to 
rise, then turn them out into the oven, which must be quick. 
Rasp when done. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



SWEETMEATS 

Observations on Sweetmeats 

Sweetmeats should be kept in a dry place, unless they 
have a very small proportion of sugar, a warm one does not 
hurt, but when not properly boiled, that is, long enough, but 
not quick, heat makes them ferment, and damp causes them 
to grow mouldy. They should be looked at two or three times 
a month, that they may be gently boiled again, it not likely to 
keep. It is necessarv to observe that sugar being boiled more 
or less, constitutes the chief art of the confectioner, and those 
who are not practised in the knowledge, and only preserve in 
a plain way for family use, are not aware, that in two or three 
minutes, a syrup over the fire will pass from one gradation to 
another, called by the confectioners, degrees of boiling, of 
which there are six, and those sub-divided 

But I am not versed in the minutia, and only make the 
observation to guard against under-boiling, which prevents 
sweetmeats from keeping, and quick boiling and long, which 
brings them to candy. Attention without practise, will enable 
the person to do any of the following sorts of sweetmeats etc., 
and they are as much as are wanted in a private family, and the 
higher articles of preserved fruits may be bought at less ex- 
pense than made. 

A pan of double blocktin should be kept for the purpose 
of preserving. A low handle opposite the straight one, 
for safety, will do very well, and if put by nicely cleaned, in a 
clean place, when done with, will last for several years. Those 
of copper or brass are improper as the tinning wears out by 
the scraping of the sweetmeat ladle. There is a new sort of 
iron, with a strong tinning, which promises to wear long. 
Sieves and spoons should be kept likewise for sweet things. 

To Clarify Sugar 

Break as much as required in large lumps, and put a pound 
to half a pint of water, in a bowl, and it will dissolve better 



The Southern Cookbook 81 

than when broken small. Set it over the fire, and the well- 
whipped white of an egg, let it boil up, and when ready to run 
over, pour a little cold water in it to give it a check, but when 
it rises a second time, take it off the fire, and set it by in the 
pan for a quarter of an hour, during which time the foulness 
will sink to the bottom and leave a black scum on the top, 
which take off gently with a skimmer, and pour the syrup into 
a vessel very quick from the sediment. 

To dry Cherries with Sugar 

Stone six pounds of Kentish, put them into a preserving 
pan, with two pounds of loaf sugar pounded and strewed 
among them, simmer till they begin to shrivel, then strain them 
from the juice, lay them on a hot hearth, or in an oven, when 
either are cool enough to dry without baking them. The same 
syrup will do another six pounds of fruit. 

To dry Cherries without Sugar 

Stone and set them over the fire in the preserving pan, let 
them simmer in their liquor, and shake them in a pan. Put 
them by in common china dishes, and put them, when cold, on 
sieves to dry, in an oven of a tempered heat as above. Twice 
heating, an hour each time, will do them. 

Put them in a box with a paper between each layer. 

Excellent Sweetmeats for Tarts when Fruit is Plentiful 

Divide two pounds of apricots when just ripe, and take 
out and break the stones, put the kernels without their skins 
to the fruit, add to it three pounds of greengage plums and 
two pounds and a half of lump sugar. Simmer until the fruit 
be a clear jam. The sugar should be broken in large pieces, 
and just dipped iivwater, and added to the fruit over a slow 
fire. Observe that it does not boil, and skim it well. If the 
sugar be clarified it will make the jam better. Put it in small 
pots, in which all sweetmeats keep better. 



(6) 



82 The Southern Cookbook 

Currant Jelly, Red or Black 

Strip the fruit, and put them in a sauce pan of water, or by 
boiling it on the hot hearth, strain off the liquor, 1 and to every 
pint weigh a pound of loaf sugar. Put the latter in large lumps 
into it, in a stone or china vessel, till nearly dissolved, then 
put it in a preserving pan. Simmer and skim as necessary. 
When it will jelly on the plate, put it in small jars or glasses. 

Raspberry Jam 

Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar. Put the former 
into a preserving pan, boil and break it, stir constantly, and let 
it boil very quickly. When most of the juice is wasted, add the 
sugar and simmer to a fine jam. 

This way the jam is greatly superior in color and flavor to 
that which is made by putting the sugar in at first. 

Raspberry Jam, Another way 

Put the fruit in a jar into a kettle of water, or on a hot 
hearth till the juice will run from it, then take away a quarter 
of a pint from every pound of fruit. Boil and bruise it half an 
hour, then put in the weight of the fruit in sugar, and adding 
the same quantity of currant juice, boil it to a strong jelly. The 
raspberry juice will serve to put into brandy, or may be boiled, 
with its weight in sugar, for making the jelly for raspberry ice 
or cream. 

Raspberry Jelly for Ices or Cream 

Do the fruit as directed for currant jelly, and use in the 
same proportion of sugar and liquors. 

Raspberry Cakes 

Pick out any bad raspberries that are among the fruit 
weigh and boil what quantity you please, and when mashed, 
and the liquor is wasted, put to it sugar the weight of the fruit 
you first put into the pan. 



The Southern Cookbook 



83 



Mix it well off the fire, until perfectly dissolved, then put 
on china plates, and dry it in the sun. As soon as the top part 
•dries, cut with the cover of a cannister into small cakes, turn 
them on fresh plates, and when dry put them in boxes with 
layers of paper. 

Apricot Cheese 

Weigh an equal quantity of pared fruit and sugar, wet the 
latter very little, and let it boil quickly, or the color will be 
spoiled, blanch the kernels, and add to it; twenty or thirty 
minutes will boil it. Put it in small pots or cups half filled. 

Apricots or Peaches in Brandy 

Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have ready a quarter 
of the weight of fine sugar in fine powder. Put the fruit into 
a nice pot that shuts very close, tnrow the sugar over it, and 
then cover the fruit with brandy. Between the top and cover 
of the pot, put a piece of double cap paper. Set the top onto 
a saucepan of water till the brandy be as hot as you can pos- 
sibly bear to put your finger in, but must not boil. 

Put the fruit into a jar and pour the brandy on it. When 
cold, put a bladder over, and tie it down tight. 

Cherries in Brandy 

Weigh the finest molasses, having cut off half the stalk, 
prick them with a new needle, and drop them into a jar or wide 
mouth bottle. Pound three-quarters the weight of sugar 
or white candy, strew over, fill up with brandy, and tie a blad- 
der over. 

To Prepare Oranges to put into Orange Puddings 

Put twelve Seville oranges into water, and change them 
three days. Boil them in the least water till tender, scoop out 
the pulp, and pick out the kernels, then in a marble mortar 
beat the oranges, then the pulp separately, and after both 
together. To every pound put a pound and half of a sugar, 
pounded and sifted, and beat to a paste. Keep it in small 
gallipots and cover with white paper dipped in brandy. 



8 4 



The Southern Cookbook 



To Dry Apricots, in Half 

Pare thin and halve four pounds of apricots, weighing them 
after, put them in a dish and strew among them three pounds 
of sugar in the finest powder. When it melts, set the fruit 
over the stove to do very gently. As each piece becomes 
tender, take it out and put it into a china bowl. When all 
are done, and the boiling heat a little abated, pour the syrup 
over them. In a day or two remove the syrup, leaving only a 
little in each half. In a day or two more turn them, and so 
continue daily till quite dry, keeping in the sun or a warm place. 
Keep in boxes with layers of paper. 

To Preserve Apricots in Jelly 

Pare the fruit very thin and stone it. Weigh an equal 
quantity of sugar in the powder and strew over it. Next day 
boil very gently till they are clear, move them into a bowl and 
pour the liquor over. The following day pour the liquor to a 
quart of codlin liquor, made by boiling and straining, a pound 
of fine sugar, let it boil quickly till it will jelly, put the fruit 
into it and give one boil, and having skimmed well, put into 
small pots. 

Apple Jelly for the Above, or Any Sort of Sweetmeats 

Let apples be pared, quartered, and cored, put them in 
a stewpan with as much water as will cover them, boil as fast 
as possible. When the fruit is all in a mash, add a quart of 
water, boil half an hour more, arid run through a jelly bag. 
If in summer, codlins are best, in September golden rennets 
or winter pippins. 

To Preserve Green Apricots 

Lay vine or apricot leaves at the bottom of your pan, the 
fruit, and so alternately till full, the upper layer being thick 
with leaves, then fill with spring water and cover down that 
no steam may come out. Set the pan at a distance from the 
fire that in four or five hours they may be very soft, but not 
cracked. Make a thin syrup of some of the water, and drain 
the fruit; when both are cold, put the fruit into the pan and 



The Southern Cookbook 



85 



the syrup to it, put the pan at a proper distance on the fire 
till the apricots green, but on no account boil or crack; remove 
them very carefully in a pan with the syrup for two or three 
days, then pour off as much of it as will be necessary, and 
boil with them more sugar to make a rich syrup and put a 
little sliced ginger into it. When cold, and the thin syrup 
has all been drained from the fruit, pour the thick over it. 

To Preserve Strawberries Whole 

Get the finest scarlets before they are too ripe, with their 
stalks kept on, lay them separately on a china dish, beat and 
sift twice their weight of double refined sugar over them, 
then bruise a few ripe strawberries, with their weight of 
double refined sugar, in a china basin, cover it close and set 
it in a saucepan of boiling water which will just hold it till 
the juice comes out and becomes thick, strain it through a 
muslin into a sweet-meat pan, boil it up and skim it. When 
cold, put in the strawberries, set them over the stove till milk- 
warm, then take the pan off till they cold, set them on again, 
and let them become rather hotter, and so for several times 
till they become clear, but the hottest degree must not come 
to a boil. When cold put them into glasses, and pour the 
sugar over. 

Another Way 

Take equal weight of the fruit and double refined sugar, 
lay the former in a large dish, and sprinkle half the sugar in 
fine powder over, give gentle shake to the dish, that the sugar 
may touch the under side of the fruit. Next day make a thin 
syrup with the remainder of the sugar, and instead of water, 
allow one pint of red currant juice to every three pounds of 
strawberries, in this simmer them until sufficiently jellied. 
Choose the largest scarlets, or others, when not dead ripe. 

Cherry Jam 

To twelve pounds of Kentish or Duke cherries when ripe, 
weigh one pound of sugar, break the stones of part and blanch 
them, then put them to the fruits and sugar, and boil all gently 



86 The Southern Cookbook 



till the jam comes clear from the pan. Pour it into china 
plates to come up dry to table. Keep in boxes with white 
paper between. 

Orange Marmalade 

Rasp the oranges, cut out the pulp, then boil the rinds 
very tender, and beat fine in a marble mortar. Boil three 
pounds of loaf sugar in a pint of water, skim it, and add a 
pound of the rind, boil fast till the syrup is very thick, but 
stir it carefully, then put a pint of the pulp and juice, the seeds 
having been removed, and a pint of apple liquor, boil all gently 
until well jellied, which it will be in about half an hour. Put 
it into small pots. 

Lemon marmalade do in the same way. 

Quince Marmalade 

Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quanty of sugar, 
to four [pounds of the latter put a quart of water, boil and 
skim, and keep ready against four pounds of quinces tol- 
erably tender by the following mode ; — lay them into a stone 
jar, with a teacup of water at the bottom and pack them with 
a little sugar strewed between, cover the jar close, and set it 
on a stone or cool oven, and let them soften till the color be- 
come red, then pour the fruit syrup, and a quart of quince 
juice into a preserving pan, and boil all together till the mar- 
malade be complete, breaking the lumps of fruit with the pre- 
serving ladle. This fruit is so hard, that if not done as above, 
it requires a greal deal of time. 

N. B — Stewing quinces in ajar, and then squeezing them 
through cheese cloth, is the best method of obtaining the juice 
to add as above. 

To Dry Cherries, the Best Way 

To every five pounds of cherries stoned weigh one of 
sugar doubly refined. Put the fruit into the preserving pan 
with very little water, both make scalding hot, take the fruit 
immediately out and dry them, put them into the pan again, 
strewing the sugar between each layer of cherries, let it stand 



The Southern Cookbook 



8 7 



to melt, then set the pan on the fire, and make it scalding hot 
as before, take it off, and repeat this thrice with the sugar. 
Drain them from the syrup, and lay them singly to dry on 
dishes, in the sun or on a stove. When dry put them into a 
sieve, dip it into a pan of cold water, and draw it instantly out 
again, and pour them on a soft cloth, dry them, and set them 
once more in the hot sun, or on a stove. Keep them in a box 
with layers of white paper, in a dry place. 

This way is best to give plumpness to the fruit, as well 
as flavor. 

Observe — When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried 
in the sun or in a stove, it will be best in private families, 
where there is not a regular stove for the purpose, to place 
in the sun on flag stone, which reflects the heat, and place a 
garden glass over them to keep the insects off, or if put in an 
oven, to take care not to let it be too warm, and watch that 
they do properly and slowly. 

Gooseberry Jam for Tarts 

Put twelve pounds of red hairy gooseberries, when ripe 
and gathered in dry weather, into a preserving pan as for jelly, 
let them boil pretty quick, and beat them with a spoon ; when 
they begin to break, put to them six pounds of pure white Lis- 
bon sugar, and simmer slowly to a jam. It requires long 
boiling, or it will not keep, but is an excellent and reasonable 
thing for tarts and puffs. Look at it in two or three days, 
and if the syrup and fruit separate, the whole must be boiled 
longer. Be careful it does not burn to the bottom. 

Another 

Gather your gooseberries, (the clear white green sort) 
when ripe, top and tail them, and weigh, a pound to three 
quarters of a pound of fine sugar and half a pint of water, boil 
and skim the sugar and water, then put the fruit in, and boil 
gently till clear, then break anel put into small pots. 

White Gooseberry Jam 

Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if you 
choose, when just ripe top and tail them. To each pound put 



88 



The Southern Cookbook 



three quarters of a pound of fine sugar and half a pint of 
water, fix as directed under article to clarify sugar then add 
the fruit, simmer gently till clear, then break and put into 
small pots. 

Barberries for Tartlets 

Pick barberries chat have no stones, from the stalks, and to 
every pound weigh three quarters of a pound lump sugar. 
Put the fruit into a stone jar and either set it on a hot hearth 
or in a sauce-pan of water, and let them simmer very slowly till 
soft, put them and the sugar into a preserving pan and boil 
them gently fifteen minutes. Use no metal but silver. 

Barberry Drops 

The black tops must be cut off, then roast the fruit be- 
fore the fire till soft enough to pulp with a silver spoon through 
a sieve into a china basin, then set the basin on a sauce-pan 
of water the top of which will just fit it, or on a hot hearth, 
.and stir it till it grows thick. When cold, put to every pint 
one pound and a half of sugar, the finest doubly refined and 
pounded and sifted through a sieve, which must be covered 
with a fine linen, to prevent its wasting while sifting. Beat 
-the sugar and juice together three hours and a half if a large 
quantity, but two and a half for less, then drop it on sheets of 
thick white paper, the size of the drops sold in the shops. 

Some fruit is not so sour, and then less sugar is neces- 
sary. To know if there is enough, mix till well incorporated, 
and then drop, if it runs there is not enough sugar, and if 
there is too much it will be rough. A dry room will suffice 
to dry them. No metal must touch the juice but the point of 
a knife, just to take the drop off the end of a wooden spoon, 
and then as little as possible. 

Ginger Drops, a Good Stomachic 

Beat two ounces of fresh candied orange in a mortar, with 
a little sugar to a paste, then mix one ounce of powder of 
white ginger with one pound of loaf sugar. Wet the sugar 
with a little water, and boil all together to a candy and drop 
it on paper the size of mint drops. 



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Peppermint Drops 

Pound and sift four ounces of doubly refined sugar, beat 
it with the whites of two eggs till smooth, add sixty drops of 
oil of peppermint, beat it well and drop on white paper, and 
dry at a distance from the fire. 

Lemon Drops 

Grate three lemons, with a large piece of doubly refined 
sugar, then scrape the sugar into a plate, and half a teaspoon- 
ful of flour, mix well and beat it well, into a light paste, with 
the white of an egg. Drop it upon white paper, and put them 
in a moderate oven on a tin plate. 

A Beautiful Red, to Stain Jellies, Ices or Cakes 

Boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the finest powder, with 
a drachm and a half of cream of tartar, in half pint of water, 
very slowly, half an hour. Add in boiling a bit of alum the 
size of a pea. Or use beet-root sliced, and some liquor poured 
over. 

For white, use almonds finely powdered, with a little 
drop of water, or use cream. 

For yellow, yolks of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in 
the liquor and squeezed. 

For green, pound spinach leaves, or beet leaves ; express 
the juice and boil a teacupful in a saucepan of water to take 
off the rawness. 

Damson Cheese 

Bake or boil the fruit in a stone jar in a saucepan of 
water, or on a hot hearth. Pour off some of the juice, and to 
every two pounds of fruit weigh half a pound of sugar. Set 
the fruit over the fire in the pan, let it boil quickly till it 
begins to look dry, take out the stones and add the sugar, stir 
it in well and simmer two hours slowly, then boil it quickly 
half an hour, till the sides of the pan candy, pour the jam 
then into potting-pans or dishes about an inch thick, so that 
it may cut firm ; if the skins be disliked, then the juice is not 
to be taken out, but after the first process, the fruit is to be 



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pulped through a new very coarse sieve with the juice, and. 
managed as above. The stones are to be cracked, or some of 
them, and the kernels boiled in the jam All the juice may 
be left in and boiled to evaporate, but do not add the sugar 
until it has done so. 

The above looks well in shapes. 

Biscuit of Fruit 

To the pulp of any scalded fruit, put equal weight of 
sugar sifted, beat it two hours, then put it into little white 
paper forms, dry in a cool oven, turn the next day, and in two 
or three days box them. 

Magum Plums, Excellent as a Sweetmeat, or in Tarts, Though Very- 
Bad to Eat Raw 

Prick them with a needle, to prevent bursting, simmer 
them very gently in a thin syrup, put them in a china bowl, 
and when cold pour it over, let them lay three days, then 
make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to five of fruit, with 
no more water than hangs to large lumps of the sugar dipped 
quickly, and instantly brought out. Boil the plums in this 
fresh syrup after draining the first from them. Do them 
very gently till they are clear, and the syrup adheres to them. 
Put them one by one into small pots, and pour the liquor 
over. Those you may like to dry, keep a little of the syrup 
for, longer in the pan, and boil it quickly, then give the fruit 
one more warm, drain and put them to dry on plates in a cool 
oven. These plums are apt to ferment if not boiled in two 
syrups, the former will sweeten pies, but will have too much 
acid to keep. You may reserve part of it, and add a little 
sugar to do those that are. to dry, for they will not require to 
be sweet, as if kept wet, and will eat very nicely, if only 
boiled as much as those. Do not break them. One parcel 
may be done after another, and save much sugar. 

To Preserve Grapes in Brandy 

Put some close bunches, when ripe, but not over ready, 
into a jar, strew over them half of their weight in white sugar 



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candy pounded, prick each grape, once with a needle, fill up 
with brandy, and tie close. They look beautiful in a dessert. 

Gooseberry Hops 

Of the largest green walnut kind, take and cut the bud 
end in four quarters, leaving the stalk ends whole, pick out 
the seeds, and with a strong needle and thread, fasten five or 
six together, by running the thread through the bottoms, till 
they are the size of a hop, lay nine leaves at the bottom of 
the preserving pan, cover them with the hops, then a layer of 
leaves, and so on, lay a good many on the top, then fill the 
pan with water. Stop it so close down that no steam can 
get out, set it by a slow fire till scalding hot, then take it off 
till cold, and so do till on opening while cold, the gooseberries 
are of a good green. Then drain them on sieves, and make a 
thin syrup of a pound of sugar to a pint of water, boil and 
skim it well, when half cold, put in the fruit, next day give it 
one boil, do this thrice. If the hops are to be dried, which 
way they eat best, and look well, they may be set to dry in a 
week, but if to keep wet make a syrup in the above propor- 
tions, adding a slice of ginger in boiling, when skimmed and 
clear, give the gooseberries one boil, and when cold, pour it 
over them. If the first syrup be found too sour, a little sugar 
may be added and boiled in it, before the hops that are for 
drying have their best boil. 

The extra syrup will serve for pies, or go toward other 
sweetmeats. 

A Caramel Cover for Sweetmeats 

Dissolve eight ounces of double refined sugar in three or 
four spoonfuls of water, and three or four drops of lemon 
juice, then put into a copper untinned skillet, when it boils to 
be thick, dip the handle of a spoon in it, and put that into a 
pint basin of water, squeeze the sugar from the spoon into it, 
and so on, till you have all the sugar. Take a bit out of the 
water, and if it snaps, and is brittle when cold, it is done 
enough, but only let it be three parts cold, then pour the 
water from the sugar, and having a copper form oiled well 



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run the sugar on it, in the manner of a maze, and when cold, 
you may put it on the dish it is to cover, but if on trial 
the sugar is not brittle, pour off the water, and return it into 
the skillet and boil again ; it should look thick like treacle, but 
of a bright, light good color. 
It is a most elegant cover. 

Transparent Marmalade 

Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters, take the pulp 
out, and put it in a basin, pick out the seeds and skins, let 
the outside soak in water with a little salt all night, then boil 
them in a good quantity of spring water till tender, drain and 
cut them in very thin slices, and put them to the pulp, and 
to every pound, a pound and a half of double refined sugar 
beaten fine, boil them together twenty minutes, but be 
careful not to break the slices ; if not quite clear, simmer 
five or six minutes longer. It must be stirred all the time 
very gently. 

When cold put it into glasses. 

To Preserve Lemons or Oranges in Jelly 

Cut a hole in the stalk part, the size of a shilling, and 
with a blunt small knife scrape out the pulp quite clear with- 
out cutting the rind. Tie each separately in muslin, and lay 
them in spring water two days, changing twice a day, in the 
last boil them tender on a slow fire. Observe that there is 
enough at first to allow for wasting, as they must be covered 
to the last. To every pound of oranges, weigh two pounds of 
double refined sugar, and one pint of water, boil the two latter 
together with the juice of the orange to a syrup and clarify it, 
skim well, and let it stand to be cold, then boil the fruit in 
the syrup half an hour; if no: clear, do this daily till they are 
done. 

Pare and core some green pippins, and boil in water till 
it tastes strong of them, do not break them, only gently press 
them with the back of a spoon. Strain the water through a 
jelly bag till quite clear, then to every pint put a pound of 
double refined sugar, the peel and juice of a lemon, and boil 



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93 



to a strong syrup. Drain off the syrup for the fruit and 
turning the whole upwards in the jar, pour the apple jelly 
over it. The bits cut out, must go through the same process 
with the fruit. Cover with brandy pepper. 

Orange Chips 

Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice through the 
sieve, soak the peel in water, next day boil in the same till 
tender, drain them, and slice the peels, put them to the juice, 
weigh as much sugar, and put all together into a broad 
earthen dish, and put over the fire at a moderate distance, 
often stirring till the chips candy, then set them in a cool 
room to dry. They will not be so under three weeks. 

Orange Cakes 

Cut Seville oranges in pieces, take out the seeds and 
skins, save the juice, and add to the meat of the fruit after 
having beaten it quite fine in a mortar, in the proportion of a 
pound to a pound and a half of loaf sugar finely beaten first. 
When the paste is finely mixed make it into small cakes, and 
dry them on china plates in a hot room, and turn them daily. 
Do not let them be too dry. They are excellent for gouty 
stomachs, or for travellers. 

The peels of China oranges, soaked a night, then drained 
and boiled up in a syrup till enough to be tender, answer for 
common puddings extremely well, and are of no value, where- 
as Sevilles are usually dear, and sometimes cannot be had. 

Another 

Put to the water, apiece of lemon-pcel, mix the crumbs in 
and when nearly boiled enough, put some lemon or orange 
syrup. Observe to boil all the ingredients, for if any be added 
after, the panada will break, and not jelly. 

Barley Water 

Boil an ounce of pearl barley a few minutes to cleanse, 
then put on a quart of water, simmer one hour, when half 
done, put into it a bit of fresh lemon-peel and a bit of sugar. 
If likely to be too thick, you may put another quarter of a 
pint of water. 



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Common Barley Water 

Wash a handful of common barley, then simmer it gently 
in three pints of water in a little lemon-peel. 

This is less apt to nauseate than pearl barley, but the 
former is a very pleasant drink. 

A Very Agreeble Drink 

Into a glass of fresh cold water pour a tablespoonful of 
capillarie and the same of vinegar. 

Lemon Water, a Delightful Drink 

Put two slices of lemon thinly pared into a teapot, and a 
little bit of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large spoonful of 
capillaire, pour in a pint of boiling water, and stop close. 

Apple Water 

Cut two large apples in slices, and pour a quart of boiling 
water on them, or on roasted apples. 

Tamarinds, currants, fresh or in jelly, or scalded, currants 
or cranberries, make excellent drinks with a little sugar or not, 
as may be agreeble. 

Toast and Water 

Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely brown 
and hard, but not the least black, then plunge it into a jug of 
cold water, and cover it over an hour before used. 

Orangeade, or Lemonade 

Squeeze the juice, pour boiling water on a little of the 
peel and cover close. Boil water and sugar to a thin syrup, 
and skim it. When all are cold, mix the juice, the infusion, 
and the syrup, with as much more water as will make a rich 
sherbet, strain through a jelly bag, or add water and capil- 
laire. 

Orgeat 

Beat two ounces of almonds with a teaspoonful of orange- 
flower water, and a bitter almond or two, then pour a quart 
of milk and water to the paste. Sweeten with sugar or 
capillaire. 



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Milk Porridge 

Make a fine gruel of half grits, long boiled, strain off, 
either add cold milk, or warm with milk, as may be approved. 
Serve with toast. 

French Milk Porridge 

Stir some oatmeal and water together, let it stand to be 
clear, and pour off the batter, pour fresh upon it, stir it well, 
let it stand till next day, strain through a fine sieve and boil 
the water, adding milk while doing. The proportion of water 
must be small. This is much ordered, with toast, for the 
breakfast of weak persons, abroad. 

Caudle 

Make a fine smooth gruel of half grits, strain it when 
boiled well, stir it at times till cold. When to be used, add 
sugar, wine and lemon-peel with nutmeg; some like a spoonful 
of brandy beside the wine. 

Another Caudle 

Boil up half a pint of fine gruel, with a bit of butter the 
size of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, the same 
of white wine, one of capillaire, a bit of lemon-peel and nutmeg. 

Rice Caudle 

When the water boils, pour it into some grated rice, 
mixed with a little cold water, when of a proper consistency 
add sugar, lemon-peel and cinnamon, and a glass of brandy to 
a quart. Boil all smooth. 

Cold Caudle 

Boil a quart of spring water, when cold add the yolk of 
an egg, the juice of a small lemon, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, 
sugar to your taste, and syrup of lemons one ounce. 

A Refreshing Drink in a Favor 

Put a little tea-sage, two springs of balm, and a little 
wood sorrel into a stone jug, having first washed and dried 
them; peel thin a small lemon and clear from the white, slice it, 
and put a bit of the peel in, then pour in three pints of boil- 
ing water, sweeten and cover it close. 



9 6 



The Southern Cookbook 



Another Drink 

Wash extremely well an ounce of pearl barley, shift it 
twice, then put to it three pints of water, an ounce of sweet 
almonds beaten fine, and a bit of lemon-peel, boil till you have 
a smooth liquor, then put in a little syrup of lemon and 
capillaire. 

Another Drink 

Boil three pints of water with an ounce and a half of 
tamarinds, three ounces of stoned raisins, till near a third be 
consumed. Strain it. 

A Most Pleasant Drink 

Put a teacup full of cranberries into a cup of water, and 
mash them. In the meantime boil two quarts and a pint of 
water with one large spoonful of oatmeal, and a very large bit 
of lemon-peel, then add the cranberries and as much fine 
Lisbon sugar as shall leave a smart flavor of the fruit, and a 
quarter of a pint of sherry or less, as may be proper; boil all 
for half an hour and strain off. 

Whey 

That of cheese is a very wholesome drink, especially 
when the cows are in fresh herbage. 

White Wine Whey 

Put half a pint of new milk on the fire, the moment it 
boils up, pour in as much sound raisin wine as will completely 
turn it, and it looks clear, let it boil up, then set the saucepan 
aside till the curd subsides, and not stir it. Pour the whey 
off, and add to it half a pint of boiling water and a bit of 
white sugar. 

Thus you will have a whey perfectly cleared of milky 
particles, as weak as you choose to make it. 

Vinegar or Lemon Wheys 

Pour into boiling milk as above, and when clear, dilute 
with boiling water, and put a bit or two of sugar. 



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Egg Wine 

Beat an egg, mix it with a spoonful of cold water, set on 
the fire a glass of white wine, half a glass of water and 

sugar, and nutmeg. When it boils, pour a little of it to the 

egg by degrees, till the whole be in, stirring it well, then 

return the whole into the saucepan, put it on a gentle fire, stir 

it one way for not more than a minute, for if it boils, or the 

egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve with toast. 

Egg wine may be made as above without warming the 

egg, and it is lighter on the stomach, though not so pleasant 

to the taste. 

An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed 
with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more supporting 
than tea. 

An egg divided, and the yolks and whites beaten separ- 
ately, then mixed with a glass of wine, will afford two very 
wholesome draughts, and prove lighter than when taken 
together. 

Eggs very little boiled or poached, taken in a small 
quantity, convey much nourishment. 

The following is a particularly soft and fine draught to 
be taken the first and last thing, by those who are weak, and 
have a cough. 

Beat a fresh laid egg, and mix it with a quarter of a pint 
of new milk warmed, a large spoonful of capillaire, the same 
of rose-water, and a little nutmeg scraped. Do not warm 
after the egg is put in. 

Chocolate 

Those who may use much of this article, will find the 
following mode of preparing both useful and economical. 

Cut a cake of chocolate in very small bits, put a pint of 
water into the pot, and when it boils, put in the above. Keep it 
on the fire until quite melted, then on a gentle fire until it 
boils, pour into a basin, and it will keep in a cool place eight 
or ten days or more. When wanted put a spoonful or two 
into milk, boil it with sugar, and mix it well. 

This, if not made thick, is a very good breakfast or supper 
drink. '■ 

(7) 



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The Southern Cookbook 



To Make Coffee 

Put two ounces of fresh ground coffee of the best quality 
into a coffee pot, and pour eight coffee cups of boiling water 
on it. let it boil six minutes, pour out a cupful two or three 
times, and return it again, then put two or three isinglass 
chips into it, and pour one large spoonful of boiling water on 
it, boil it five minutes more, and set the pot by the fire, to 
keep hot ten minutes, and you will have coffee of a beautiful 
clearness. 

Fine cream should always be served with coffee, and 
either pounded sugar candy, or fine Libson sugar. 

If for foreigners, or those who like it exceedingly strong, 
make onlv eight dishes from three ounces. If not fresh 
roasted lav it before a hre until perfectly hot and dry, or you 
may put the smallest bit of fresh butter into a preserving pan 
of a small size, and when hot, throw the coffee in it, 'and toss 
it about until it be freshened. 

Coffee Milk 

Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee, in nearly a 
pint of milk, a quarter of an hour, then put into it a shaving 
or two of isinglass and clear it. Let it boil a few minutes, 
and set it on the side of the fire to grow fine. 

This is a very fine breakfast drink, it should be sweetened 
with real Lisbon sugar of a good quality. 

Ground Rice Milk 

Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down smooth, 
with three half pints of milk, a bit of cinnamon, lemon-peel, 
and nutmeg. Sweeten when near done. 

Tapioca Jelly 

Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash it 
two or three times, then soak it in fresh water five or six 
hours, and simmer it in the same until it becomes quite clear, 
then put lemon juice, wine and sugar. The peel should have 
been boiled in it. It thickens very much. 



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99 



» Sago 

To prevent the earthy taste, soak it in cold water an hour, 
pour that off, and wash it well, then add more, and simmer 
gently till the berries are clear, with lemon-peel and spice if 
approved. Add sugar and wine, and boil all up together. 

Sago Milk 

Cleanse as above, and boil it slowly and wholly with new 
milk. It swells so much that a small quantity will be suf- 
ficient for a quart, and when done, it will be diminished to 
about a pint. It requires no sugar, or flavoring. 

Arrowroot Jelly 

Of this beware of having the wrong sort, for it has been 
counterfeited with bad effect. 

Mix a large spoonful of the powder with a teacupful of 
cold water by degrees, and quite smooth. Put rather more 
than a pint of water over the fire, with some white sugar, 
scraped nutmeg, and a spoonful and a half or two of brandy. 
The moment it boils, pour the powder and water in, stirring 
it well, and when it boils up it is done. 

This is a very useful thing in a house and in the above 
mode, a sick person may be supplied with a fine supporting 
meal in a few minutes. 

This and the following are particularly good in bowel 
complaints. 

A Flour Caudle 

Into five large spoonfuls of the purest water, rub smooth 
one dessert spoonful of fine flour. Set over the fire five 
spoonfuls of new milk, and put two bits of sugar into it, the 
moment it boils, pour into it the flour and water, and stir it 
over a slow fire twenty minutes. 

A Rice Caudle 

Soak some Carolina rice in water an hour, strain it, and 
put two spoonfuls of the rice into a pint and a quarter of 
milk, simmer till it will pulp through a sieve, then put the 



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The Southern Cookbook 



pulp and milk into the saucepan, with a bruised clove, and a 
bit of white sugar. Simmer ten minutes, if too thick, add 
a spoonful or two of milk, and serve with thin toast. 

Ass's Milk 

Far surpassing any imitation of it that can be made. It 
should be milked into a glass that is kept warm by being in a 
basin of hot water. 

The fixed air that it contains gives some people a pain in 
the stomach. 

At first a teaspoonful of rum may be taken with it, but 
should only be put in the moment it is to be swallowed. 

Artificial Ass's Milk 

Boil together a quart of water, a quart of new milk, an 
ounce of wiiite sugar candy, half an ounce of ering root, and 
half an ounce of conserve of roses, till half be wasted. 

This is astringent, therefore proportion the doses to the 
effect. 

Another 

Mix two spoonfuls of boiling water, two of milk and an 
egg well beaten, sweeten with pounded white sugar candy. 
This may be taken twice or thrice a day. 

Another 

Boil two ounces of hartshorn shavings, two ounces of 
pearl barley, two ounces of ering root, and one dozen of 
snails that have been bruised, in two quarts of water to one. 
Mix with an equal quantity of new milk when taken, twice 
a day. 

Buttermilk with Bread or without 

It is most wholesome when sour, as being less likely 
to be heavy but most agreeable when made of sweet cream. 

Dr. B oerneave's Sweet Buttermilk 

Take the milk from the cow into a small churn, in about 
ten minutes begin churning, and continue until the flakes of 
butter swim about pretty thick, and the milk is discharged 



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IOI 



of all the greasy particles, and appears thin and blue. Strain 
it through a sieve, and drink it as frequently as possible. It 
should form the whole of the patient's drink, and the food 
should be biscuit and rusks in every wa) and sort, ripe and 
dried fruits of various kinds when a decline is apprehended. 

Baked and dried fruits, raisins in particular, make excel- 
lent suppers for invalids, with biscuit or common cake. 

When the Stomach Will not Receive Meat 

On an extreme hot plate put two or three sippets of 
bread, and pour over them some gravy from beef, mutton or 
veal, if there is not butter in the dish. Sprinkle a little salt 
over. 

This is much lighter than meat, and conveys a great deal 
of nourishment in a small form. 

Toast hard and dry a thin bit of bread, soak it in water, 
take it out and sift a little sugar, and nutmeg if you like it. 
Or pour boiling water over a captain's biscuit, broken in 
pieces, and steam it down in a basin, when soft, add a little 
strong souchong tea, cream, and sugar, or wine, sugar and 
nutmeg, or a teacupful of weak rum, or brandy and water, 
with sugar, just to give taste. 

Saloop 

Boil a little water with wine, lemon-peel and sugar to- 
gether, then mix with a small quantity of the powder, previ- 
ously rubbed smooth, with a little cold water; stir it all to- 
gether, and boil it a few minutes. 

To Make Yeast 

Thicken two quarts of water with fine flour, about three 
spoonfuls, boil half an hour, sweeten with half a pound of 
brown sugar, when near cold put it into four spoonfuls of 
fresh yeast, in a jug, shake it well together, and let stand one 
day to ferment near the fire, without being covered. There 
will be a thin liquor on the top which must be poured off ; 
shake the remainder, and cork it up for use. Take always 
four spoonfuls of the old to ferment the next quantity, keep- 
ing it always in succession. 



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Another Way 

Boil one pound of potatoes to a mash, when half cold add 
a cupful of yeast, and mix it well, It will be ready for use in 
two or three hours and keep well. 

Use a double quantity of this to what you do of beer 
yeast. 

To take off the bitter of yeast, put bran into a sieve, and 
pour it through. 

To Preserve Yeast 

When you have plenty of yeast begin to save it in the 
following manner : whisk it until it becomes thin, then get a 
large wooden dish, wash it very nicelv, and when quite dry, 
lay a layer of yeast over the inside with a soft brush, let it 
dry, then put another layer in the same manner, and so do 
until you have a sufficient quantity, observing that each coat 
dries thoroughly before another be added. It may be put on 
two or three inches thick, and will keep several months; when 
to be used cut a piece out, and stir it in warm water. 

If to be used for brewing, keep it by clipping large hand- 
fuls of birch tied together, and when dry, repeat the dipping 
once. You may thus do as many as you please, but take care 
that no dust comes to them, or the vessel in which it has been 
prepared as before. When the wort be set to work throw in- 
to it one of these bunches, and it will do as well as with a 
small quantitv first and then added to the whole ; it will work 
sooner. 

To Pot Cheese 

/ 

Cut and pound four ounces of Cheshire cheese, one ounce 
and a half of fine butter, a teaspoonful of white pounded 
sugar, a little bit of mace, and a glass of white wine, press it 
down in a deep pot. 

To Roast Cheese to Come up After Dinner 

Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix it with the 
yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated bread, and four 



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103 



ounces of butter, beat the whole well in a mortar with a tea- 
spoonful of mustard, and a little salt and pepper. Toast some 
bread, lay the paste, as above, thick upon it, put it in a Dutch 
oven, covered with a dish till hot through, remove the dish 
and let the cheese brown a little. 
Serve as hot as possible. 

To Poach Eggs 

Set a stewpan of water on the fire, when boiling slip an 
egg previously broken into a cup, into the water, when the 
white looks done enough, slide an egg slicer under the egg, 
and lay on toast and butter, or spinach. As soon as enough 
are done, serve hot. 

Little Short Cakes 

Rub into a pound of dried flour, four ounces of butter, 
four ounces of white powdered sugar, one egg, and a spoonful 
or two of thin cream to make into a paste. 'W hen mixed put 
the currants into one half, and the caraways into the rest. 
Cut them as before and bake on tins. 

The servants of each country are generally acquainted 
with the best mode of managing the butter and cheese of that 
country, but the following hints may not be unacceptable to 
give information to the mistress. 

DAIRY 

The greatest possible attention must be paid to cleanli- 
ness. All the utensils must be daily scalded, and brushed, 
washed in plenty of cold water, dried with clean cloths, and 
turned up in the air. The dairy should be kept perfectly 
clean and cool. 

In milking, if the cows be not left perfectly dry, the 
quantity will be decreased. The quantity depends on the 
goodness of different cows, on the pastures, and on the length 
of time from calving. A middling cow gives a pound of but- 
ter a day for five or six weeks, and sometimes longer. When 
the milk decreases a change even in a worse pasture will 
effect an alteration, and where water is within reach of the 
animals, it is of great consequence to the milk. 



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The chief of the cows should come in the end of March, 
or the beginning of April, and one the end of September, then 
the family will be supplied with milk in the winter 

When a calf is to be reared, it should be taken from the 
cow in a week at furthest, or it will cause great trouble in 
rearing, because it will be difficult to make it take milk in a 
pan. The calf should be taken from the cow in the morning 
and kept without food till next morning, w T hen being hungry, 
it will take it without much trouble. Skimmed milk made as 
warm as new, is to be given twice a day in such quantities as 
it shall require, and if milk runs short, a fine smooth gruel 
mixed with it will do very well. This is to be continued till 
the calf be taken out to graze, which at first will be only by 
day ; the milk must be given when housed in the evening. 

To Scald Cream 

In winter the milk stands twenty-four hours before scald- 
ed, in summer twelve. The milk pan is to be put on a hot 
hearth if you have one. It must remain on the fire till quite 
hot, on no account boil, or there will be a skin instead of 
cream upon the milk. You will know when done enough by 
the undulations on the surf ace, and looking quite thick. The 
time required to scald cream depends on the size of the pan 
and the heat of the fire, the slower the better; remove the pan 
into the dairy when done, and skim it next day. Of cream 
thus prepared, the butter is usually made in Devonshire, etc. 

Buttermilk 

If made of sweet cream, is a delicious and most whole- 
some food. Those who can relish sour buttermilk find it still 
more light, and it is reckoned more beneficial in some cases. 

To Cure Mawskins for Rennet 

Cut the calf's stomach open, rub it well with salt, let it 
hang to drain two days, then salt it well, and let it be in that 
pickle a month or more, then take it out, drain, and flour it, 
stretch it out with a stick, let it hang up to dry. 

A piece of this is to be soaked, and kept to turn the milk 
in cheese-making time. 



The Southern Cookbook 



105 



Some lands make cheese of a better quality than the 
butter produced in them is ; when the soil is poor, the cheese 
will want fat, to remedy which, after pressing" the whey from 
the curd, crumble it quite small, and work into it a pound of 
fine fresh butter, then press, etc. as usual. 

Cream Cheese 

Put five quarts of strippings, that is the last of the milk, 
into a pan, with two spoonfuls of rennet. When the cind is 
come, strike it down two or three times with a skimming- 
dish, just to break it, set it to stand two hours, then spread a 
cheese cloth on a sieve, put the curd on it, and let the whey 
drain, break the curd a little with your hand, and put it into 
a vat with a two-pound weight upon it. Let it stand two 
hours, take it out, and bind afillet around. Turn every day 
till dry, from one board to another, cover them with nettles, 
or clean dock leaves, and put between two pewter plates to 
ripen. If the weather is warm, it will be ready in three 
weeks. 

Another 

Have ready a kettle of boiling water, put five quarts of 
new milk into a pan, and five pints of cold water, and five of 
hot ; when of a proper heat, put in as much rennet as will 
bring it in twenty minutes, likewise a bit of sugar; when 
it comes, strike the skimmer three or four times down and 
leave it on the curd. In an hour or two lay it, into the vat 
without touching it, put a two-pound weight on it when the 
whey has run from it, and the vat is full. 

Another Sort 

Put as much salt to three pints of raw cream as shall 
season it, stir it well, and pour it into a sieve in which you 
have folded a cheese-cloth three or four times and laid at the 
bottom. When it hardens, cover it with nettles on a pewter 
plate. 

Rush Cream Cheese 

To a quart of fresh cream, put a pint of new milk warm 
enough to make the cream a proper warmth, a bit of sugar 
and a little rennet. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Set near the fire till the curd comes, fill a vat made in the 
form of a brick of wheat straw, or rushes sewed together. 
Have ready a square of straw, or rushes sewed flat to rest the 
vat on, and another to cover it, the vat being open at top 
and bottom. Next day take it out, and change it as above to 
ripen. A half-pound weight will be sufficient to put on it. 

Another Way- 
Take a pint of very thick sour cream from the top of the 
pan gathering for butter, lay a napkin on two plates, and pour 
half into each, let them stand twelve hours, then put them on 
a fresh wet napkin in one place, and cover with the same, this 
do every twelve hours until you rind the cheese begins to 
look dry, then ripen it with nut leaves ; it will be ready in ten 
days. 

Fresh nettles, or two pewter plates, will ripen cream 
cheese very well. 



HOME BREWERY 



To Brew Very Fine Welsh Ale 

Pour forty-two gallons of hot water, but not quite boil- 
ing", on four bushels of malt, cover and let it stand three hours; 
in the meantime infuse a pound and a half of hops in a little 
hot water or two pounds if the ale is to be kept five or six 
months, and put water and hops into the tub, and run the 
wort upon them, and boil them together three hours. Strain 
off the hops, and keep for the small beer. Let the wort 
stand in a high tub till cool enough to receive the ) east, of 
which put two quarts of ale, or if you cannot get it, of small 
beer yeast. Mix it thoroughly and often. When the wort 
has done working, the second or third day, the yeast will sink 
rather than rise in the middle, remove it then and turn the 
ale as it works out, pour a quart in at the time and gently 
to prevent the fermentation from continuing too long, which 
weakens the liquor. Put a bit of paper over the bunghole 
two or three clays before stopping it up. 

Strong Beer or Ale 

Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight 
for ale, for either pour the whole quantity of hot water, 
not boiling, on at once and let it infuse three hours closely 
covered, mash it in the first half hour, and let it stand the re- 
mainder of the time. Run it on the hops previously infused 
in water, for strong beer three quarters of a pound to a 
bushel, if for ale, a half pound. Boil them with the wort two 
hours from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful to add 
three quarts of yeast to, which will prepare it for putting 
to the rest when ready next day, but if possible put together 
the same night. Turn as usual. Cover the bunghole with 
paper when the beer has finished working, and if it is to be 
stopped have ready a pound and a half of hops dried before 
the fire, put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up. Set it 
to stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before 
it is drunk. It will keep and be very fine eight or ten years. 
It should be brewed the beginning of March. 



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The Souttiern Cookbook 



Great care must be taken that bottles are perfectly pre- 
pared, and that the corks are of the best sort. 

The ale will be ready in three or four months, and if the 
vent peg is never removed, it will have spirit and strength to 
the very last. Allow two gallons of water at first for waste. 

After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogs- 
head and a half for the twelve bushels and a hogshead of 
water if eight were brewed, mash and let it stand, and then 
boil, etc., use some of the hops for the table beer that was 
boiled for the strong beer. 

Excellent Table Beer 

On three bushels of malt pour of hot water the third of 
the quantity you are to use, which is to be thirty-nine gallons. 
Cover it warm half an hour, then wash, and let stand two 
hours and a half more, then set it to drain. When dry add 
half the remaining water, mash, and let it stand half an hour, 
run that into another tub and pour the rest of the water on 
the malt, stir it well and cover it, letting it infuse a full hour. 
Run that off and mix well, all together. A pound and a 
quarter of hops should be infused in water, as in the former 
recipe, and be put into the tub for first running. Boil the 
hops with the wort an hour from the time it first boils. 
Strain off and cool, if the whole be not cool enough that day 
to add to the yeast, a pail or two of wort may be prepared, 
and a quart of yeast put to it over night. Before turning, 
all the wort should be added together, and thoroughly mixed 
with a lade pail. When the wort ceases to work, put a bit of 
paper on the bunghole for three days, when it may be safely 
fastened close. In three or four weeks the beer will be fit 
drinking. 

Note. Servants should be directed to put a cork into 
every barrel as soon as the cork is taken out, the air causing 
casks to become musty. 

To Refine Beer, Ale, Wine and Cider 

Put two ounces of isinglass shavings to soak in a quart of 
the liquor that you want to clear, beat it with a whisk every 



The Southern Cookbook 



109 



day till dissolved. Draw off a third part of the cask, and mix 
the above with it, likewise a quarter of an ounce of pearl-ashes, 
one ounce of salt of tartar calcined, and one ounce of burnt 
alum powdered. Stir it well, then return the liquor into the 
casks, and stir it with a clean stick. Stop it up, and in a few 
days it will be fine. 

To Make Excellent Coffee. See Among Sick Cookery, Orgeat 

Beat a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, 
sweeteu to your taste, and let grow cold, then pour it by 
degrees to three ounces of almonds, and twenty bitter that 
have been blanched and beaten to a paste, with a little water 
to prevent oiling, boil all together, and stir till cold, then add 
half a glass of brandy. 

Another Way 

Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of almonds, 
and thirty bitter, with a spoonful of water, stir in by degrees 
two pints of water, and three of milk, and strain the whole 
through a cloth. Dissolve half a pound of fine sugar in a 
pint of water, boil and skim it well, mix it with the other as 
likewise two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and a teacupfui 
of the best brandy. 

Lemonade, to be Made the Day Before Wanted 

Pare two dozen of tolerably sized lemons as thin as 
possible, put eighteen of the rinds into three quarts of hot, 
not boiling water, and cover it over for three or four hours. 
Rub some fine sugar on the lemons to attract the essence, 
and put it into a china bowl into which squeeze the juice of 
the lemons, to it add one pound and a half of fine sugar, then 
put the water to the above, and three quarts of milk not 
boiling hot, mix and pour through a jelly bag till perfectly 
clear. 

Another Way 

Pare a number of lemons according to the quantity you 
are likely to want, on the peels pour hot water, but more 
juice will be necessary than you need use the peels of. While 



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The Southern Cookbook 



infusing, boil sugar and water to a good syrup with the white 
of an egg whipped up. When it boils pour a little cold water 
into it, set it on again, and when it boils up, take the pan off, 
and set it to settle. If there is any scum, take it off, and 
pour it clear from the sediment to the water the peels were 
infused in, and the lemon juice, stir and taste it and add as 
much more water as shall be necessary to make a very rich 
lemonade. Wet a jelly bag, and squeeze it dry, then strain 
the liquor, which is uncommonly fine. 

Raspberry Vinegar 

Put a pound of fine fruit into a china bowl, and pour 
upon it a quart of the best white wine vinegar, next day strain 
the liquor on a pound of fresh raspberries, and the following 
day do the same, but do not squeeze the fruit, only drain the 
liquor as dry as you can from it. The last time, pass it 
through a canvas previously wet with vinegar to prevent 
waste. Put it into a stone jar, with a pound of sugar to 
every pint of juice, broken into large lumps, stir it when 
melted, then put the jar into a saucepan of water, or on a hot 
hearth, let it simmer, and skim it. When cold bottle it. 

This is one of the most useful preparations that can be 
kept in a house, not only as affording the most refreshing 
beverage, but being of ^singular efficacy in complaints of the 
chest. A large spoonful or two in a tumbler of water. 

N. B. Use no glazed or metal vessel for it. 

Note. The fruit, with equal quantity of sugar, makes 
excellent raspberry cakes without boiling. 

Raspberry Wine 

To every quart of well picked raspberries put a quart of 
water, bruise, and let them stand two days, strain off the 
liquor, and to every gallon put three pounds of lump sugar; 
when dissolved put the liquor in a barrel an'd when fine, which 
will be in about two months, bottle it, and to each bottle put a 
spoonful of brandy, or a glass of wine. 



The Southern Cookbook 



1 1 1 



Raspberry or Currant Wine 

To every three pints of fruit, carefully cleared from 
mould or bad, put one quart of water, bruise the former. In 
twenty-four hours strain the liquor, and put to every quart a 
pound of sugar, a good middling quantity of Lisbon. If for 
white currants, use lump sugar. It is best to put the fruit, 
etc, in a large pan, and when in three or four clays the scum 
rises, take that off before the liquor be put into the barrel. 

Those who make from their own gardens may not have a 
sufficiency to fill the barrel at once. 

The wine will not be hurt if made in the pan, in the 
above proportions, and added to as the fruit ripens, andean be 
gathered in dry weather. Keep an account of what is put in 
each time. 

Imperial 

Put two ounces of cream of tartar, and the juice and par- 
ing of two lemons into a stone jar, pour on them seven quarts 
of boiling water, stir and cover close. When cold, sweeten with 
loaf sugar, and straining it, bottle and cork it tight. 

This is a very pleasant liquor, and very wholesome, but 
from the latter consideration was at one time drank in such 
quantities, as to become injurious. Add in bottling, half a 
pint of rum to the whole quantity. 

Excellent Ginger-wine 

Put into a very nice boiler ten gallons of water, twelve 
pounds and a half of lump sugar, with the whites of six or 
eight eggs well beaten and strained, mix all well while cold; 
when the liquor boils, skim it well, put half a pound of cinna- 
mon, white ginger bruised, boiled twenty minutes. Have ready 
the very thin rinds of ten lemons, and pour the liquor on them, 
when cool turn it with two spoonfuls of yeast, put a quart of 
the liquor to two ounces of isinglass shavings; while warm, 
whisk it well three or four times, and pour all together into 
the barrel. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bottle, and in 
three months it will be a delicious and refreshing liquor, and 
though very cool, perfectly safe. 



112 



The Southern Cookbook 



Another for Ginger-wine 

Boil nine quarts of water with six pounds of lump sugar, 
the rinds of two lemons very thinly pared, with two ounces of 
bruised white ginger, half an hour, skim. Put three quarters 
of a pound of raisins into the cask, when the liquor is luke 
warm, turn it with the juice of two lemons, strained, and a 
spoonful and a half of yeast. Stir it daily, then put in half a 
pint of brandy, and half an ounee of isinglass- shavings, stop it 
up, and bottle it six or seven weeks. Do not put the lemon- 
peel in the barrel. 

Alderwine 

To every quart of berries put two quarts of water, boil 
half an hour, run the liquor, and break the fruit thiough a hair 
sieve, then to every quart of juice put three quarters of a 
pound of Lisbon sugar, not the very coarsest, but coarse. Boil 
the whole a quarter of an hour with some Jamaica peppers, 
ginger and a few cloves. Pour it into a tub and when of a 
proper warmth into the barrel, with toast and yeast to woik, 
which there is more difficulty to make it do than most other 
liquors. When it ceases to hiss, put a quart of brandy to eight 
gallons and stop up. Bottle in the spring, or at Christmas. 

White Alder-wine — Frontiniac 

Boil eighteen pounds of white powdered sugar, with six 
gallons of water, and two whites of eggs well beaten, then skim 
it, and put in a quarter of a peck of alder flowers from the tree 
that bears white berries, do not keep them on the fire. When 
near cold, stir it, and put in six spoonfuls of lemon juice, four 
or five of yeast, and beat well into the liquor; stir it every day, 
put six pounds of the best raisins stoned, into the cask, and 
turn the wine. Stop it close, and bottle in six months. When 
well kept, this wine will pass for Frontiniac. 

Cherry Wine 

Boil fifteen gallons of water, with forty-five pounds of 
sugar, skim it, when cool, put a little to a quart of a pint of 
yeast, and so by degrees add a little more. In an hour pour 



The Southern Cookbook 113 

the small quantity to the large, pour the liquor on cherry 
flowers, picked in the dry, the quantity for the above is twelve 
quarts. Those who gather from their own garden may not 
have sufficient to put in at once, and may add as they 
can get them, keeping account of each quart. When it 
ceases to hiss, and the flowers are all in, stop it up for four 
months. Rack it off, empty the barrel of the dregs, and add- 
ing a gallon of the best brandy stop it up. and let it stand six 
or eight. weeks, then bottle it. 

A Rich and Pleasing Wine 

Take new cider from the press, mix it with as much honey 
as will support an egg, boil gently fifteen minutes, but not in 
an iron, brass or copper pot, skim it well, when cool let it be 
turned, but do not quite fill. In March following, bottle it, and 
it will be fit to drink in six weeks; will be less sweet if kept 
longer in the cask. You will have a rich and strong wine, and 
it will keep well. This will serve for any culinary purposes 
which sack, or sweet wine are directed for. 

Duhamel says, honey is a fine ingredient to assist and 
render palatable new crabbed, austere cider. 

Raisin Wine with Cider 

Put two hundred weight of Malaga raisins into a cask, and 
pour upon them a hogshead of good sound cider that is not 
rough. Stir it well two or three days, stop it, and let it stand 
six months, then rack into a cask that it will fill, and put in a 
gallon of the best brandy. 

If raisin wine be much used, it would answer well to keep 
a cask always for it, and bottle off one year's wine just in time 
to make the next, which allowing the six months of infusion 
would make the wine to be eighteen months old. In cider 
countries this way is very economical, and even if not thought 
strong enough, the addition of another quarter of a hundied 
of raisins would be sufficient, and the wine would still be very 
cheap. 



(8) 



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The Southern Cookbook 



When the raisins are pressed through a horse-hair bag, 
they will either produce a very good spirit by distillation and 
must be sent to a chemist who will doit (but if for that purpose 
they must be very little pressed) or they will make excellent 
vinegar, on which article see another page. 

The stalks should be picked off for the above, and may be 
thrown into any cask of vinegar that is making, being very acid. 

Raisin Wine without Cider 

On four hundred weight of Malagas pour one hogshead of 
spring water, stir well daily for fourteen days, then squeeze 
the raisins in a horse-hair bag in a press, and turn the liquor; 
when it ceases to hiss stop it close. In six months rack it off 
into another cask, or into a tub, and after clearing out the sed- 
iment, return it into the same, but do not wash it, add a gallon 
of the best brandy, stop it close, and in six months bottle it. 
Take care of the pressed fruit, for the use of which refer to 
the preceding recipe. 

Ratafia 

Blanch two ounces of peach and apricot kernels, bruise 
and put them into a bottle, and fill nearly up with brandy. 
Dissolve half a pound of white sugar candy in a cup of cold 
water, and add to the brandy after it has stood a month on 
the kernels, and they are strained off, then filter through pa- 
per, and bottle for use. 

Raspberry Brandy 

Pick fine dry fruit, put into a stone jar, and the jar into a 
kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice runs, strain, 
and to every pint add a pound of sugar, give one boil, and 
skim it when cold ; put equal quantities of juice, and brandy, 
shake well, and bottle. Some people prefer it stronger of the 
brandy. 

Vender, or Milk Punch 

Fare six oranges, and six lemons as thin as you can, grate 
them after with sugar to get the flavor. Steep the peels in a 
bottle of rum or brandy, stop close twenty-four hours. 



The Southern Cookbook 



Squeeze the fruit on a pound and a half of sugar, add to it 
four quarts of water, and one of new milk, boiling hot, stir the 
rum into the above , and run it through a jelly-bag till per- 
fectly clear. Bottle and cork close immediately. 

Norfolk Punch 

Pare six lemons and three Seville oranges very thin, 
squeeze the juice into a large teapot, put to it two quarts of 
brandy, one of white wine, and one of milk, and one pound and 
a quarter of sugar, let it be mixed fine, and then covered for 
twenty-four hours, strain through a jelly-bag, till clear, then 
bottle it. 

Orange or lemon syrup, a most useful thing to keep in 
the house, to take with water, in colds or fevers. 

Squeeze the juice of very good fruit, and boil ; when 
strained, a pint to a pound of sugar, over a very gentle fire, 
skim it well, when clear, pour it into a china bowl, and in 
twenty-four hours bottle ; t for use. 

White Currant Shrub 

Strip the fruit, and prepare in a jar as for jelly, strain the 
juice, of which put two quarts to one gallon of rum, and two 
pounds of lump sugar ; strain through a jelly bag. 



FOR THE SICK 



The lollowing pages will contain cookery for the sick, it 
being of more consequence to support those whose bad appe- 
tites will not allow them to take the necessary nourishment, 
than to stimulate those that are in health. 

It may not be necessary to advise, that a choice be made 
of the things most likely to agree with the patient, that a 
change be provided, that some one at least be always ready, 
that not too much of these be made at once, which are not 
likely to keep, as invalids require variety, and let them succeed 
each other in a different form and flavor. 

A Great Restorative 

Bake two calve's feet in three pints of water, and new 
milk, in a jar closely covered, three hours and a half ; when 
cold, remove the fat. 

Give a large teacup the first and last thing. Whatever 
flavor is approved, give it by baking in it lemon-peel, cinna- 
mon or mace, add sugar. 

Another 

Simmer six sheep's trotters, two blades of mace, a little 
cinnamon, lemon-peel, a few hartshorn shavings, and a little 
isinglass, in two quarts of water to one ; when cold, take off 
the fat, and give near half a pint twice a day, warming with it 
a little new milk. 

Another 

Boil one ounce of isinglass shavings, forty Jamaica peppers, 
and a bit of broken crust of bread, in a quart of water to a 
pint, and strain it. 

This makes a pleasant jelly to keep in the house, of which 
a large spoonful may be taken in wine and water, milk, tea, 
soup, or anyway. 

Another and More Pleasant Draught 

Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass shavings, with a 
pint of new milk, to half, add a bit of sugar, and for a change 
a bitter almond. Give this at night, not too warm. 



The Sent hern Cookbook 



ii7 



A Very Nourishing Veal Broth 

Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with very 
little meat to it, an old fowl, and four shankbones of mutton 
extremely well soaked and brushed, three blades of mace, ten 
pepper-corns, an onion, and a large bit of bread, and three 
quarts of water, into a stewpot that covers close, and simmer 
in the slowest manner after it has boiled up, and been skimmed, 
or bake it, strain and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. 

A Clear Broth That Will Keep Long 

Pat the mouse round of beef, a knuckle-bone of veal, and 
a few shanks of mutton into a deep pan, and cover close with 
a dish or a close crust, bake till the loaf is done enough for 
eating with only as much water as will cover ; when cold 
cover it close, in a cool place. When to be used, give what 
flavor may be approved. 

Beef Tea 

Cut a pound of fleshy beef in thin slices, simmer with a 
quart of water twenty minutes after it has once boiled, and 
been skimmed. Season, if approved, but it has generally 
only salt. 

Broth of Beef, Muttpn and Veal 

Put two pounds of lean beef, two pounds of scrag of 
mutton, sweet herbs, and ten pepper-corns, into a nice tin 
saucepan, with five quarts of water, simmer to three quarts, 
and clear the fat when cold. 

Note. The soup and broth made of different meats are 
more supporting, as well as better flavored. 

Two Ways of Preparing a Chicken. Chicken Panada 

Boil it until about three parts ready, in a quart of water, 
take off the skin, cut the white meat off when cold, and put 
into a marble mortar, pound it to a paste with a little of the 
water it was boiled in, season with a little salt, a grate of 
nutmeg, and the least bit of lemon-peel. Boil gently for a 
few minutes to the consistency you like; it should be such as 
you can drink, though tolerably thick. 

This contains great nourishment in a small compass. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Chicken Broth 

Pat the body and the legs of the fowl that the panada was 
made of, taking the skin and rump off, into the water it was 
boiled in, with one blade of mace, one slice of onion, and ten 
white pepper-corns. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant 
flavor. If not water enough, add a little more. Beat a quarter 
of an ounce of sweet almonds, fine, with a teaspoonful of water, 
boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold remove the fat. 

Shank Jelly 

Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then brush 
and scour them very clean. . Lay them in a saucepan with 
three blades of mace, one onion, twenty Jamaica, and thirty 
or forty black peppers, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a crust of 
bread made very brown by toasting. Pour three quarts of 
water to them, and set them to a hot hearth close covered, 
let them simmer as gently as possible for five hours, then 
strain it off, and put it in a cold place. 

This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if 
approved for flavor. 

A Quick Made Broth 

Take a bone or two of a loin or neck of mutton, take off 
the fat and skin, set it on the fire in a small tin saucepan 
that has a cover, with three quarters of a pint of water, the 
meat being first beaten, and cut in thin bits, put a bit of 
thyme and parsley, and if approved, a slice of onion. Let it 
boil very quick, skim it nicely, take off the cover, if likely to 
be too weak, else cover it. 

Half an hour is sufficient for the whole process. 

Calf's Feet Broth 

Boil two feet in three quarts of water to half, strain and 
set it by. When to be used, take off the fat, put a large 
teacupful of the jelly into a saucepan, with a half glass of 
sweet wine, a little sugar and nutmeg, and heat it up till it be 
ready to boil, then take a little out of it, and beat by degrees 
to the yolk of an egg, and adding a bit of butter, the size 
of a nutmeg, stir it all together, but do not let it boil. Grate 
a bit of fresh lemon-peel into it. 



The Sou the i'u Cookbook 



Another 

Boil two calf's feet, two ounces of veal, and two of beef, 
the bottom of a penny loaf, two or three blades of mace, half 
a nutmeg sliced, and a little salt in three quarts of water, or 
three pints, strain, and take off the fat. 

Panada, Made in Five Minutes 

Set a little water on the fire with a glass of white wine, 
some sugar, and a scrape of nutmeg and lemon-peel, mean while 
grate some crumbs of bread. The minute the mixture boils 
up, keeping it still on the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it 
boil as fast as it can. When of a proper thickness just to 
drink, take it off. 

Another 

As above, but instead of a glass of wine, put in a table- 
spoonful of rum, and a bit of butter, sugar as above. 
This is a most pleasant mess. 



SAUCES, ETC 



A Rich Gravy 

Cut beef in thin slices, according to the quantity wanted: 
slice onions thin, and flour both: fry them of a light pale 
brown, but on no account suffer them to grow black: put them 
into a stewpan, and pouring boiling water on the browning in 
the frying-pan, boil it up, and pour on the meat. Put it to a 
bunch of parsley, thyme, savory, and a small bit of knotted 
marjoram, and the same of tarragon, some mace, Jamaica and 
black peppers, a clove or two, and a bit of ham or gammon. 
Simmer till you have' all the juices of the meat; and be sure to 
skim the moment it boils, and frequently after. If for a hare, 
or stewed fish, anchovy should be added. 

The shank bones of mutton are a great improvement to 
the richness of the gravy; being first well soaked, and scoured 
clean. 

Note. Jelly gravies for cold pies should be brown or white, 
as the meat or fowl is. It must be drawn without frying, 
relished, and made quite clean, by running it through a flannel 
bag. To give it the consistence of jelly, shanks, or knuckle, 
or feet, should be boiled with the bones. 

Jelly to Cover Cold Fish 

Clean a maid: put it with three quarts of water, an ounce 
and a half of isinglass, a bit of mace, lemon-peel, white pepper, 
a stick of horseradish, and a little ham or gammon. Stew, till 
on trying with a spoon you find that it jellies: then strain it off 
and add to it the whites of five eggs, a glass of sherry wine, 
and the juice of a lemon; give it another boil, and pour it 
through a jelly-bag till quite transparent. 

When cold, lay it over the fish with a spoon. 

Cullis, or Brown Sauce 

Lay as much lean veal over the bottom of a stewpan as 
will cover it an inch thick: then cover the veal with thin slices 
of undressed gammon, two or three onions, two or three bay- 



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121 



leaves, some sweet herbs, two blades of mace, and three 
cloves. Cover the stewpan, and set it over a slow fire. When 
the juice comes out, let the fire be a little quicker. When the 
meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with good beef broth, boil 
and skim well, then simmer an hour: add a little water, mixed 
with as much flour as will make it properly thick: boil it half 
an hour, and strain it. 

This will keep a week. 

Veal Gravy 

Make as directed for the cullis, leaving out the spice, herbs 
and flour. It should be drawn very slowly: and if for white 
dishes, do not let the meat brown. 

Bechamel or White Sauce 

Cut lean veal in small slices, and the same quantity of 
lean bacon or ham: put them in a stewpan, with a good piece 
of butter, an onion, a blade of mace, a few mushroom buttons, 
a bit of thyme, and a bayleaf . Fry the whole over a very slow 
fire, but not to brown it: add flour to thicken; then put an equal 
quantity of good broth, and rich cream. Let it boil half an 
hour, stirring it all the time: strain it through a soup strainer. 

N. B. Soups and gravies are far better by putting the 
meat at the bottom of the pan, and stewing it, and the herbs, 
roots, etc., with butter, than by adding the water to the meat 
at first; and the gravy that is drawn from the meat should be 
nearly dried up before the water is put to it. Do not use the 
sediment of gravies, etc. that have stood to be cold. When 
onions are strong, boil a turnip with them, if for sauce, which 
will make them mild. 

Sauce for White Fowl 

Simmer ten minutes a teacupful of port wine, the same of 
good meat gravy, a little shallot, a little pepper, salt, a grate of 
nutmeg, and a bit of mace: put a bit of butter and flour: give 
one boil, and pour through the birds; which in general are not 
stuffed as tame, but may be done so, if liked. 



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Another for the Same, or Ducks 

Serve a rich gravy in the dish: cut the breast in slices, but 
do not take them off: cut a lemon, and put pepper and salt on 
it; then squeeze it on the breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy 
over before you help. 

Note. In cutting up any wild fowl, duck, goose, or turkey 
for a large party, if you cut the slices down from pinion to 
pinion, without making wings, there will be more prime pieces. 

Sauce Robart for Rumps or Steaks 

Put into a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg: 
set it over the fire, and when browning, throw in a handful of 
sliced onions cut small: fry them brown, but do not let them 
burn: add half a spoonful of flour, shake the onions in it, give 
another fry, then put four spoonfuls of gravy, pepper, salt, and 
boil gently ten minutes. Skim off the fat: add a teaspoonful" 
of made mustard, a spoonful of vinegar, and half a lemon 
juice: boil, and pour around the steaks, which should be of a 
fine yellow brown, and garnished with fried parsley and lemon. 

An Excellent Sauce for Carp or Boiled Turkey 

Rub half a pound of butter with a teaspoonful of flour; 
put to it a little water, melt it, and add near a quarter of a pint 
of thick cream, and half an anchovy chopped fine, unwashed; 
set it over the fire, and as it boils up, add a large spoonful of 
real Indian soy. If that does not give it a fine color, put a 
little more Turn it into the sauce-tureen, and put seme salt, 
and half a lemon. Stir it well to prevent curdling. 

Sauce for Fowl or Partridge 

Rub down in a mortar, the yolks of two eggs, boiled hard, 
and anchovy, two dessert spoonfuls of oil, a little shallot, and a 
teaspoonful of mustard, (all should be pounded before the oil 
be added) then strain it. 

Vinegar for Cold Fowl or Meat 

Chop fine meat, parsley, and shallot, and add salt, oil, and 
vinegar. It may be poured over, or sent in in a boat. 



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123 



Benton Sauce for Hot or Cold Roast Beef 

Grate, or scrape very fine, horseradish, a little made mus- 
tard, some pounded white sugar, and four large spoonfuls of 
vinegar. 

Serve in a saucer. 

To Melt Butter 

On a clean trencher, mix a little flour to a large piece of 
butter, in the proportion of a teaspoonful to a full quarter of a 
pound ; then put into a saucepan, and pour on it two large 
spoonfuls of hot water ; set it on the fire, and let it boil quick. 
You should stir it around one way, and serve it as soon as 
ready. 

On the goodness of this depends the look and flavor of 
every sauce in which it is put. 

Lobster Sauce 

Pound the spawn, and two anchovies : pour on two spoon- 
fuls of gravy ; strain it into some butter melted as above : 
then put in the meat of the lobster, give one boil, and add a 
squeeze of lemon. 

Another Way 

Leave out the anchovies and gravy, and do as above, with 
a little salt, and catsup, or not, as you like. Many prefer the 
flavor of the lobster and salt only. 

Shrimp Sauce 

If not picked at home, pour a little water over to wash, 
and put them to butter melted smooth : give them one boil, 
and add the juice of lemon. 

Anchovy Sauce 

Chop one or two without washing : put some flour and 
butter, and a little drop of water : stir it over the fire till it 
boils once or twice. When anchovies are good they will be 
dissolved ; and the color will be better than by the usual way. 

Fish Sauce Without Butter 

Simmer very gently a quarter of a pint of vinegar, half a 
pint of water ( which must not be hard ) with an onion, half a 



124 



The Souther 7i Cookbook 



handful of horseradish, and the following spices lightly bruis- 
ed : four cloves, two blades of mace, and a half a teaspoonful 
of black pepper. When the onion is quite tender, chop it 
small with two anchovies : and set the whole on the fire to 
boil for a few minutes, with a spoonful of catsup. Mean time 
have ready and well beaten the yolks of three fresh eggs : 
strain ; mix in the liquor by degrees with them ; and when 
well mixed, set the saucepan over a gentle fire, keeping a ba- 
sin in one hand, into which toss the sauce to and fro, shaking 
the saucepan over the fire that the eggs may not curdle. Do 
not boil, only let the sauce be hot enough to give the thick- 
ness of melted butter. 

Lemon Sauce 

Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice, and put in 
to melted butter ; give one boil, and pour over boiled fowl. 

Liver Sauce 

Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and do as above 
with a very little pepper and salt, and some parsley. 

A Very Good Sauce. Especially to Hide the Bad Color of Fowls 

Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded parsley, and 
hard eggs, add salt, and mix with butter, boil up, and pour 
over the fowls. 

Or for roast rabbit. 

Egg Sauce 

Boil the eggs hard, and cut them into small pieces : then 
put them into melted butter. 

Buttered Eggs 

Beat four or five eggs, yolks and whites together : put a 
quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, and then put that in 
boiling water ; stir it till melted : then pour the butter and the 
eggs into a saucepan. Keep a basin in your hand : just hold 
the saucepan in the other over a slow part of the fire, shaking 
it one way ; as it begins to warm, pour it into a basin, and 
back ; then hold it again over the fire, stirring it constantly 



The Southern Cookbook 



in the saucepan, and pouring it into the basin, more perfectly 
to mix the eggs and butter, until they shall be hot without 
boiling. 

Serve on toasted bread ; or in a basin to eat with salt 
fish or red herrings. 

Onion Sauce 

Peel, and boil onions tender : squeeze the water from 
them ; then chop, and add butter that has been melted rich 
and smooth as before, but with a little good milk instead of 
water : boil up once, and serve for boiled rabbits, partridges, 
scrag, or knuckle of veal ; or roast mutton. 

Oyster Sauce 

Save the liquor in opening, and boil with the beards a bit 
of mace and lemon-peel. Meantime throw the oysters into 
cold water, and drain off. Strain the liquor, and put it into a 
saucepan with them, and as much butter, mixed with a little 
milk as will make sauce enough ; a little flour being previous- 
ly rubbed with it. 

Set them over the fire, stir all the time; and uhen the 
butter has boiled once or twice, take them off, and keep the 
saucepan near, but not on the fire ; for if done too much, the 
oysters will be hard. Squeeze a little lemon-juice, and serve. 

If for company, a little cream is a great improvement. 
Observe, the oysters will thin the sauce, and put butter ac- 
cordingly. 

Bread Sauce 

Boil a large onion, cut in four, with some black peppers 
and milk, until the former be quite a pap. Pour the milk, 
strained on grated white stale bread, and cover it. In an 
hour put it into a saucepan, wi£h a good piece of butter, mix- 
ed with a little flour : boil the whole up together and serve. 

Some people like the bread pulped through a colander 
before the butter is added. A large spoonful of cream im- 
proves it. 



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Little Eggs for Pies or Turtles 

Boil three eggs hard; beat the yolks fine with the raw 
yolk of an egg : then make up the paste into small eggs, and 
throw them into a little boiling water to harden. 

Fish Sauce a la Craster 

Thicken a quarter of a pound of butter with flour and 
brown it; then put it to a pound of the best anchovies, cut 
small, six blades of pounded mace, ten cloves, forty black and 
Jamaica peppers, a few small onions, a faggot of sweet herbs : 
namely, savory, thyme, basil, and knotted marjoram; a little 
parsley, and sliced horseradish. On these pour half a pint of 
the best sherry wine, and a pint and a half of strong gravy. 
Simmer all gently for twenty minutes ; then strain it through 
a sieve, and bottle it for use : the way of which, is to boil 
some of it in the butter, as melting. 

A very Fine Fish Sauce 

Put into a very nice saucepan, a pint of fine port wine, 
one gill of mountain, half a pint of walnut catsup that is fine, 
twelve anchovies and the liquor that belongs to them, one gill 
of walnut pickle, and the rind and juice of a large lemon, four 
or five shallots, cayenne to taste, three ounces of scraped 
horseradish, three blades of mace, and two teaspoonfuls of 
made mustard : boil gently, till the rawness goes off, then put 
it in small bottles for use. 

Cork very close, and seal the top. 

Camp Vinegar 

Slice a large head of garlic, and put it into a wide- 
mouthed bottle, with half an ounce of cayenne, two teaspoon- 
fuls of real soy, two of walnut catsup, four anchovies chop- 
ped, a pint of vinegar, cochineal enough to give the color of 
lavender drops. Let it stand six weeks, then strain off quite 
clear, and keep in amall bottles, sealed up. 

Lemon Pickle 

Wipe six lemons; cut each into eight pieces: put on them 
a pound of salt, six large cloves of garlic, two ounces of 



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127 



horseradish, sliced thin; likewise of cloves, mace, nutmeg, and 
cayenne, a quarter of an ounce each, and two ounces of flour 
of mustard; to these put two quarts of vinegar: boil a quarter 
of an hour in a well tinned saucepan, or set the jar on a hot 
hearth till done. Set the jar by, and stir it daily for six 
weeks. Keep the jar closely covered. 
Put into small bottles. 

Shallot Vmegar 

Split six or eight shallots; put them into a quart bottle: 
fill it up with vinegar: stop it ; and in a month it will be fit for 
use. 

Essence of Anchovies 

Take a dozen of anchovies, chop them, and without the 
bone, but with their own liquor strained; add them to sixteen 
large spoonfuls of water: boil gently till dissolved, which will 
be in a few minutes. When cold, strain and bottle it. 

Mushroom Catsup 

Take the largest broad mushrooms, break them into an 
earthen pan, strew salt over them, and stir them now and 
then for three days. Then let them stand for twelve, till 
there is a thick scum over. Strain, and boil the liquor with 
Jamaica and black peppers, mace, ginger, a clove or two, and 
some mustard seed. When cold, bottle it, and tie a bladder 
over the cork. In three months boil it again with some fresh 
spice, and it will then keep a twelve month. 

Mushroom Catsup, Another Way 

Take a stevvpan full of the large flap mushrooms, that arc 
not worm-eaten, and the skins and fringe of those you have 
picked ; throw a handful of salt among them, and set them by 
a slow fire. They will produce a great deal of liquor, which 
you must strain ; and put to it four ounces of shallots, two 
cloves of garlic, a good deal of pepper, ginger, mace, cloves, 
and a few bay leaves. Boil and skim very well. When cold, 
cork close. In two months boil it up again, with a little fresh 
spice, and a stick of horseradish, and it will then keep the 
year, which mushroom catsup rarely does, if not boiled a 
second time. 



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The Southern Cookbook 



Walnut Catsup of the Finest Sort 

Boil a gallon of the expressed juice of walnuts when they 
are tender, and skim well : then put in two pounds of ancho- 
vies, bones and liquor, two pounds of shallots, one ounce of 
cloves, one ounce of mace, one ounce of pepper, and one clove 
of garlic. Let all simmer till the shallots sink : then put 
the liquor into a pan till cold. Bottle and divide the spice to 
each. Cork closely, and tie a bladder over. 

It will then keep twenty years, and is not good the first. 
Be very careful to express the juice at home : for it is rarely 
unadulterated, if bought. 

Some people make the liquor of the outside shell when 
the nut is ripe ; but neither the flavor nor the color is then 
so fine. 

Cockle Catsup 

Open the cockles : scald them in their own liquor : add 
a little water when the liquor settles, if you have not enough: 
strain through a cloth, then season with savory spice : and if 
for brown sauce, add port wine, anchovies, and garlic ; if for 
white, omit these, and put a glass of sherry wine, lemon-peel 
and juice, mace, nutmeg, and white pepper. If for brown, 
burn a bit of sugar for coloring. 

It is better to have cockles enough, than to add water, 
as they are cheap. 

Mushroom Powder 

Wash half a peck of large mushrooms while quite fresh, 
and free them from grit and dirt with flannel. Scrape out 
the back part clean, and do not use any that is worm-eaten : 
put them in a stewpan over the fire without water, with two 
large onions, some cloves, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and 
two spoonfuls of white pepper, all in powder. Simmer and 
shake them till all the liquor be dried up, but be careful they 
do not burn. Lay them on tins or sieves in a slow oven, till 
they are dry enough to beat to powder ; then put the powder 
in small bottles, corked and tied closely, and keep in a dry 
place. 

A teaspoonful will give a very fine flavor to any sauce ; 
and it is to be added just before serving, and one boil given to 
it after it has been put in. 



RESPECTING THE POOR 

I promised a few hints, to enable every family to assist 
the poor of their neighborhood at very trivial expense, and 
these may be varied or amended at the discretion of the mis 7 - 
tress. 

Where the oven is hot, a large pudding may be baked, 
and given to a sick or young family, and thus made, the 
trouble is little. Into a deep coarse pan put half a pound of 
rice, four ounces ol coarse sugar, or treacle, two quarts of milk, 
_and two ounces of dripping, set it cold in the oven. It will 
take a good while, but will be an excellent solid food. 

A very good meal may be bestowed in a thing called 
Brewis, which is thus made: cut a very thin crust of bread 
and put it into the pot where salt beef is boiling and nearly 
ready, it will attract seme of the fat, and when swelled out,* 
will be no unpalatable dish to those who rarely taste meat. 

A Baked Soup 

Put a pound of any kind of meat cut in slices, two onions, 
two carrots, two ounces of rice, a pint of split peas, or whole 
ones if previously soaked, pepper and salt, into an earthen 
jug or pan, and pour one gallon of water. Cover it very close, 
and bake it with bread. 

The cook should be charged to save the boiling of every 
piece of meat, ham, tongue, etc., however salt, as it is easy to 
use only a part of that, and the rest of fresh water, and by the 
addition of more vegetables, the bones of the meat used in the 
family, the pieces of meat that come from the table on the 
plates, and rice, scotch barley, or catmeal, there will be some 
gallons of nutritious soup two or ihree times a week. The 
bits of meat should be only warmed in the soup, and remain 
whole, the bones etc., boiled until they yield their nourish- 
ment. If the things are ready to put in the boiler as soon as 
the meat is served, it will save lighting fire and second cook- 
ing. 

Turnips, carrots, leeks, potatoes, or any sort of vegeta- 
bles that are at hand should be used. 

(9) 



130 



The Southern Cookbook 



Should the soup be poor of meat, that long boiling of the 
bones and different vegetables will afford better nourishment 
than the laborious poor can obtain, especially as they are rare- 
ly tolerable cooks, and have not fuel to do justice to what they 
buy, but in every family there is some superfluity, and if it is 
prepared with cleanliness and care, the benefit will be very 
great to the receiver and the satisfaction no less to the giver. 

I found in time of scarcity, ten or fifteen gallons of soup 
could be dealt out weekly, at an expense not worth mention- 
ing, though the vegetables weie bought. If in the United 
States abounding with opulent families, the quantity of ten 
gallons were made in ten gentlemen's houses, there would be 
a hundred gallons of wholesome agreeable food given weekly 
for the support of forty poor families, at the rate of two gal- 
lons and a half each. 

What a relief to the laboring husband instead of bread 
and cheese, to have a warm comfortable meal. To the sick, 
aged, and infant branches, how important an advantage. 

It very rarely happens, that servants object to seconding 
the kindness of their superiors to the poor, but should the 
cook in any family think the adoption of this plan too trouble- 
some, a gratuity at the end of the winter might repay her, if 
the love of her fellow creatures failed of doing it, a hundred 
fold. Did she readily enter into it, she would never wash 
away as useless the peas or grits of which soup or gruel had 
been made, broken potatoes, the green heads of celery, the 
necks, and feet of fowls, and particularly the shanks of mut- 
ton, and various other articles, which in preparing dinner for 
the family are thrown aside. 

Fish affords great nourishment, and that not by the part 
eaten only, but the bones, heads, and fins, which contain an 
isinglass. When the fish is served let the cook put by some 
of the water, and stew in it the above, as likewise add the 
gravy that is in the dish, until she obtains all the goodness. 
If to be eaten by itself, when it makes a delightful broth, she 
should add a very small bit of onion, some pepper, and a little 
rice flour rubbed in smooth with it. 



The Southern Cookbook 

0 v,-l:-f. 



But strained it makes a delicious improvement to the 
meat soup, particularly for the sick, and when such are to be 
supplied the milder parts of the spare bones and meat should 
be made of them with little if any of the liquor of salt meats. 

The fat should not be taken off the broth or soup, as the 
poor like it, and are nourished by it. 

The Following is an Excellent Soup for the Weakly 

Put two cow-heels and a breast of mutton into a large 
pan, with four ounces of rice, one onion, twenty Jamaica pep- 
pers, and twenty black peppers, a turnip, a carrot, and four 
gallons of water. Cover with brown paper, and bake. 

Sago 

Put a teacupful of sago into a quart of water, and a bit of 
lemon-peel; when thickened, grate some ginger, and add half 
pint of raisin wine, brown sugar, and two spoonfuls of Geneva. 

Boil all up together. 

It is a most supporting thing for those whom disease has 
left very feeble. 

Caudle for the Sick 

Set three quarts of water on the fire, mix smooth as much 
oatmeal as will thicken the whole with a pint of cold water; 
when boiling pour the latter in, and twenty Jamaica peppers 
in fine powder, boil to a good middling thickness; then add 
sugar, half a pint of well fermented table-beer, and a glass of 
gin. Boil all. 

This mess twice, and once or twice of broth will be of in- 
calculable service. Nor are the above ingredients expensive. 

There is not a better occasion for charitable commisera- 
tion than when a person is sick. A bit of meat or pudding- 
sent unexpectedly has often been the means of recalling 
a long lost appetite. 



DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS 



To give Boards a Beautiful Appearance 

After washing them very nicely clean with soda and 
warm water, and a brush, wash them with a very large sponge 
and clean water. Both times observe to leave no spot un- 
touched, and clean straight up and down, 'not crossing from 
board to board, then dry with clean cloths, rubbing hard up 
and down in the same way. 

The floors should not be often wetted but thoroughly 
when done, and once a week dry-rubbed with hot sand, and a 
heavy brush, the right way of the boards. 

The sides of stairs or passages on which are carpets, or 
floor cloths, should be washed with a sponge instead of linen 
or flannel, and the edges will not be soiled. Different 
sponges should be kept for the two above uses, and those and 
the brushes should be well washed when done with, and kept 
in dry places. 

Floor-cloths 

Should be chosen that are painted on a fine cloth, that is 
well covered with the color, and the flowers on which do not 
rise much above the ground, as they wear out first. The 
durability of the cloth will depend much on those two parti- 
culars, but more especially on the time it has been painted, 
and the goodness of the colors. If they have not been 
allowed sufficient space for becoming thoroughly hardened, a 
very little use will injure them, and as they are very expen- 
sive articles, care in preserving them is necessary. It answers 
to keep them some time before they are used, either hung up 
in a dry barn where they will have air, or laid down in a spare 
room. When taken up for the winter, they should be rolled 
round a carpet roller, and observe not to crack the paint by 
turning the edges in too close. Old carpets answer extremely 
well, painted and seasoned some months before laid down. If 
for passages, the width must be directed when they are sent 
to the manufactory, as they cut before painting. 



The Southern Cookbook 



To Clean Floor-cloths 

Sweep, then wipe them with a flannel, and when all dust 
and spots are removed, rub with a waxed flannel, and then 
with a dry, but plain one; use little wax, and rub only enough 
with the latter to give a little smoothness, or it may endanger 
falling. 

Washing now and then with milk after the above sweep- 
ing, and dry-rubbing them give as beautiful a look, and they 
are less slippery. 

To take the Black off the Bright Bars of Polished 
Stoves in a Few Minutes 

Rub them well with some of the following mixture on a 
bit of broadcloth, when the dirt is removed; wipe them clean, 
and polish with glass and sand paper. 

The Mixture 

Boil slowly one pound of soft soap in two quarts of water 
to one. Of this jelly take three or four spoonfuls, and mix to 
a consistence with emery number three. 

To Clean the Back of the Grate, the Inner Hearth and 
the Fronts of Cast-iron Stoves 

Boil about a quarter of a pound of the best black lead, 
with a pint of small beer, and a bit of soap the size of a 
walnut. When that is melted, dip a painters brush, and wet 
the grate, having first brushed off all the soot and dust, then 
take a hard brush, and rub it. of -a beautiful brightness. 

Another Way to Clean Cast-iron and Black Hearth 

Mix black lead and whites of eggs well beaten together, 
dip a painter's brush, and wet all over, then rub it bright 
with a hard brush. 

To Preserve Irons from Rust 

Melt fresh mutton suet, smear over the iron with it 
while hot, then dust it well with unslacked lime pounded, and 
tied up in a muslin. Irons so prepared will keep many 



*34 



The Sou then i Cookbook 



months. Use no oil for ihem at any time, except salad oil, 
there being water in all others. 

Fire-irons should be kept wrapped in baize, in a dry place, 
when not used. 

To Clean Tin Covers, and Patent Pewter Porter Pots 

Get the hnest whiting, which is omVy sold in large cakes, 
the small being mixed with sand, mix a little of it powdered 
with the least drop of sweet oil, and rub well, and wipe clean, 
then dust some dry whiting in a muslin bag over, and rub 
bright with drv leather. The last is to prevent rust, which 
the cook must be careful to guard against, by wiping dry, and 
putting by the fire w r hen they come from the parlors, for if 
but once hung up without, the steam will rust the inside. 

To Take Rust out of Steel 

Cover the steel with sweet oil, well rubbed in it, and in 
forty eight hours use unslacked lime finely powdered, and 
rub until all the rust disappears. 

To Clean Stone Stairs and Halls 

Boil a pound of pipemaker's clay with a quart of water, a 
quart of small beer, and put in a bit of blue stone. Wash 
with this mixture, and when drv, rub the stones with flannel, 
and a brush. 

To Clean Paperhangings 

First blow off the dust with the bellows, divide a white 
loaf of two davs old into eight parts. Take the crust in 
your hand, and beginning at the top of the paper, wipe down- 
wards in the lightest manner with the cramb. -Do not cross or 
go upwards. The dirt off the paper and the- crumbs will fall 
together. Observe, you must not wipe above half a yard at a 
jstroke and after doing all the upper part go round again, 
beginning a little above where you left off; if you do not do 
it extremely lightly, you will make the dust adhere to the 
paper. It will look like new if properlv done. 



The Southern Cookbook 



J 35 



To Clean Paint 

Never use a cloth, but take off the dust with a little long 
haired brush, after blowing off the loose parts with the bellows- 
Wit h care wash the paint. When wainscots require scouring, it 
should be done from top downwards, and the suds be pre- 
vented from running on the unclean part as much as possible 
or marks. will be made which will appear after the whole be 
finished. One person should dry with old linen as fast as the 
other has scoured off the dirt and washed the soda off. 

To Clean Looking. glasses 

Remove the fly stains, and other soils, by a damp rag, then 
polish with woollen cloth and powder blue. 

To Preserve Gilding and Clean it 

It is not possible to prevent flies from staining the gild- 
ing without covering it, before which blow off the dust, and 
pass a feather or clean brush over it, then with strips of pa- 
per cover the frames of your glasses, and do not remove it 
till the flies are gone. 

Linen takes off the gilding, and deadens its brightness, 
it should therefore never be used for wiping it. 

Some means should be used to destroy the flies, as they 
injure furniture of every kind, and the paper likewise. Bot- 
tles hung about with sugar and vinegar, or beer, will attract 
them, or fly-water put in the bottom of a saucer. 

To Clean Plate 

Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn powder in a quart of 
water. While on the fire put into it as much plate as the ves- 
sel will hold, let it boil a little, then take it out, drain it over 
the saucepan and dry before the fire. Put in more and serve 
the same, till you have done. 

Then put into the water some clean linen rags till all te 
soaked up. When dry, they will serve to clean the plate, and 
are the very best things to clean the brass locks and finger 
plates of doors. When the plates are quite dry, it must be 
rubbed bright with leather. 



The Southern Cookbook 



This is a very nice mode. 

Note — In many plate powders there is a mixture of quick- 
silver, which is very injurious and among other disadvantages, 
it makes silver so brittle, that from a fall it will break. 

To Give Fine Color to Mahogany- 
Let the tables be washed perfectly clean with vinegar, 
having first taken out any inkstains there may be with spiiits 
of salt, but it must be used with the greatest care, and only 
touch the part affected and be instantly washed off. 

Use the following liquid: into a pint of cold drawn linseed 
oil, put four pennies' worth of alconet root, and two pennies 
worth of rosepink, in an earthen vessel ; let it remain all night, 
then stirring well, rub some of it all over the tables with a 
linen rag ; when it has lain some time, rub it bright with lin- 
en cloths. Eating tables should be covered with mats, oil- 
cloth, or baize, to prevent staining, and be instantly rubbed 
when the dishes are taken off, while still warm. 

To Dust Carpets and Floors 

Sprinkle tea leaves on them, then sweep carefully. The 
former should not be swept frequently with a whisk brush as it 
wears them fast, but once a week, and the other times with 
the leaves and a hair brush. 

To Clean Carpets 

Take up the carpet, let it be well beaten, then laid down, 
and brushed on both sides with a hand brush. Turn it the 
right side upwards, and scour it with ox gall, soap and 
water, very clean, and dry it with linen cloths. 

To Take Stains out of Marble 

Mix unslacked lime in finest powder with the strongest 
soap-lye pretty thick, and instantly, with a painter's brush lay 
it on the whole of the marble. In two months' time wash it 
off perfectly clean, then have ready a fine thick lather of soft 
soap, boiled in soft water, dip a brush in it, and scour the 



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137 



marble with powder, not as common cleaning. This will be 
very good rubbing, and give a beautiful polish. Clear off the 
soap and fi nish with a smooth hard brush, till the end be effect- 
ed. 

To Clean Calico Furniture when Taken for the Summer 

Shake off the loose dust, then lightly brush with a small 
long-haired brush, after which wipe it closely with clean flan- 
nels, and rub it with dry bread. 

If properly done, the curtains will look nearly as well as 
at first. 

Fold in large parcels, and put carefully by. 

While the furniture remains up, it should be preserved 
trom the sun and air as much as possible, which injures deli- 
cate colors, and the dust may be blown off with bellows. 

To Preserve Furs and Woollens from Moths 

Let the former be occasionally combed while in use, and 
the latter be brushed and shaken. When not wanted, dry 
them first, let them be cool, then mix among them little ap- 
ples from the apothecary's in small muslin bags, sewing them 
in several folds of linen, carefully turned in at the edges. 



MEATS, ETC, 



Podovies, or Beef Patties 

Shred rare-done dressed beef, with a little fat; season with 
pepper, salt, and a little shallot or onion. Make a plain paste, 
roll it thin, and cut it in shape like an apple puff; fill it with 
the mince, pinch the edges, and fry them of a nice brown. The 
paste should be made with a small quantity or butter, egg, and 
milk. 

Beef Palates 

Simmer them in water several hours, till they will peel; 
then cut the palates in slices, or leave them whole, as you 
choose, and stew them in a rich gravy, till as tender as pos- 
sible. Before you serve, season with cayenne, salt, and 
catsup. Tf the gravy was drawn clear, add to the above some 
butter and flour. 

Beef Cakes for Side of Dressed Meat 

Pound some beef that is rare-done, with a little fat bacon 
or ham. Season with pepper, salt, and a little shallot or garlic; 
mix them well, and make into small cakes three inches long, 
and half as wide and thick; fry them a light brown, and serve 
them in a good thick gravy. 

Potted Beef 

Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with saltpetre, and 
let it lie one night; then salt with common salt, and cover it 
with water four days, in a small pan. Dry it with a cloth, and 
season with pepper; lay it into as small a pan as will hold it; 
cover it with coarse paste, and bake it five hours in a very 
cool oven. Put no liquor in. 

When cold, pick out the strings and fat; beat the meat 
very fine with a quarter of a pound of fine butter just warm, 
but not boiled, and as much of the gravy as will make it into a. 
paste. Put it into very small pots, and cover them with melted 
butter. 



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139 



Another Way 

Take beef that has been dressed, either boiled or roasted; 
beat in a mortar with some pepper, salt, a few cloves, grated 
nutmeg, a little fine butter just warm. 

This eats well, but the color is not fine, 

Hessian Soup and Ragout 

Clean the root of a tongue very nicely, and half an ox 
head, with salt and water, and soak them afterwards in plain 
water; then stew them in five or six quarts of water till toler- 
ably tender. Let the soup stand to be cold; take off the cake 
of fat, which will make good paste for hot meat pies or serve 
to baste. Put to the soup a pint of split peas, or a quart of 
whole, twelve carrots, six turnips, six potatoes, six large on- 
ions a bunch of sweet herbs, and two heads of celery. Sim- 
mer them without the meat, till the vegetables are done 
enough to pulp with the peas through a sieve, when the soup 
will be about the consistency of cream. Season it with pepper, 
salt, mace, pimento, a clove or two, and a little cayenne, all in 
the finest powder. If the peas are bad, the soup may not be 
thick enough; then boil in it a slice of roll, and put through 
the colander; or put a little rice flour, mixing it by degrees. 

The Ragout 

Cut the nicest part of the head in small thick pieces, the 
kernels, and part of the fat of the root of the tongue. Rub 
with these some of the same seasoning, as you put them into a 
quart of the liquor, kept out for that purpose before the vege- 
tables were added; flour well, and simmer them till nicely 
tender. Then put a little mushroom - and walnut catsup, a lit- 
tle soy, and a glass of port wine, a teaspoonful of made must- 
ard; and boil up together before served. 

If tor company, small eggs and forcemeat balls. 

This mode furnishes an excellent soup, and a ragout at 
small expense, and they are uncommon. The other part will 
warm for the family. 



HO 



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Stewed Ox-cheek, Plain 

Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before you would 
have it eaten. Put it into a stewpot that will cover close, 
with three quarts of water; simmer it after it has first boiled 
up and been well skimmed. In two hours put plenty of car- 
rots, leeks, two or three turnips, a bunch of sweet herbs, some 
whole pepper, and four Jamaicas. Skim frequently. When 
the meat is tender, take it out; let the soup get cold; remove 
the cake of fat, and serve it separate, or with the meat. 

It should be of a fine brown, which may be done by burnt 
sugar, or by frying some onions quite brown with flour, and 
added, simmering them with it. The latter improves the flav- 
or, boiled in, and strained off. 

To Dress an Ox-cheek Another Way 

Soak half a head three hours, and clean it with plenty of 
water. Take the meat off the bones; put it into a pan with a 
large onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, some bruised pimento, 
pepper, and salt. 

Lay the bones on the top; pour on two or thee quarts of 
water; cover the pan close with brown paper, or a dish that will 
fit close. Let it stand eight or ten hours in a slow oven, or 
simmer it bv the side of the fire, or on a hot hearth. When 
done tender, let it go cold, having moved the meat into a clean 
pan. Take the cake of fat off and warm the head in pieces in 
the soup. Put what vegetables you choose. 

Marrow Bones 

Cover the top with floured cloth; boil, and serve with dry 
toast. 

To Dress the Inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef 

Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, in pieces as thick as 
your finger, and two inches long. Dredge with flour, and fry 
in butter, of a nice brown. Drain the butter from the meat, 
and toss up in a rich gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, an- 
chovy, and shallot. On no account let it boil. Before you 
serve, add two spoonfuls of vinegar. 

Garnish with crimped parsley. 



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141 



Fricassee of Cold Roast Beef 

Cut the beef into very thin slices : shred a handful of 
parsley very small : cut an onion in quarters, and put all 
together into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, and some 
strong broth. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer veiy 
gently a quarter of an hour ; then mix into it the yolks of two 
eggs, a glass of port wine, and a spoonful of vinegar: stir 
it quickly, and, rubbing the dish with shallot, turn the fricas- 
see into it. 

To Dress Cold Beef that Has not Been done Enough, Called 

Beef Olives 

Cut slices half an inch thick, and fcur square : lay 
on them a forcemeat of crumbs of bread, shallot, a little suet 
or fat, pepper, and salt. Roll them and fasten with a small 
skewer. Put them into a stewpan with some gravy made 
of the beef bones, or the gravy ot the meat, and a spoonful or 
two of water, and stew them till tender. , Fresh meat will do. 

To Dress the same ; Called Cecils 

Mince any kind of meat, crumbs of bread, a gocd deal of 
onion, some anchovies, lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, chopped 
parsley, and pepper, and a bit of butter warm, and mix these 
over a fire for a few minutes. When cool enough, make 
them up into balls of the size and shape of a turkey's egg, 
with an egg. Fry them, when sprinkled with fir.e crumbs, of 
a yellow brown, and serve with gravy. 

To Dress the same ; Called Sanders 

Mince small beef or mutton, onion, pepper, and salt ; add 
a little gravy: put in scallop-shells or saucers; make three 
parts full; then fill them up with potatoes, mashed with 
a little cream ; put a bit of butter on the top, and brown 
them in an oven, or before the fire. 

Minced Beef 

Shred fine the under-done part, with some of the fat- 
Put into a small stewpan, some onion, or shallot (a very little 
will do) a little water, pepper, and salt: boil till the onion is 



142 



The Southern Cookbook 



quite soft ; then put some of the gravy of the meat to it, and 
the mince. Do not let it boil. Having a small hot dish, with 
sippets of bread ready, pour the mince into it ; but first mix a 
large spoonful of vinegar with it : or, if the shallot vinegar, 
there will be no need of the onion, or raw shallot. 

Hashed Beef 

Do the same, only the meat is to be in slices ; and you 
may add a spoonful of walnut liquor or catsup. 

Observe, that it is owing to boiling hashes or minces, 
that thev are hard. All sorts of stews, or meat dressed 
second hand, should only be simmered ; and the latter only 
hot through. 

To Preserve Suet a Twelvemonth 

As soon as it comes in, choose the .firmest part, and pick 
free from skin and veins. In a very nice saucepan, set it at 
some distance from the fire, that it may melt without frying, 
or it will taste. 

When melted, pour it into a pan of cold water. When in 
a hard cake, wipe it very dry : fold it in fine paper, and then 
in a linen bag, and keep in a dry place. When used, scrape 
it fine ; and it will make a fine crust, either with or without 
butter. 

Round of Beef 

Should be carefully salted, and wet with the pickle for 
eight or ten days. The bone should be cut out first, and the 
beef skewered and filleted, to make it quite round. It may 
be stuffed with parsley, if approved; in which case, the holes 
to admit it must be made with a sharp-pointed knife, and the 
parsley coarsely cut and stuffed in tight. As scon as it boils, 
it should be skimmed, and afterwards kept boiling very 
gently. 

To Roast Tongue and Udder 

After cleaning the tongue well, salt it with common salt 
and saltpetre three days ; then boil it, and likewise a fine 
young udder, and some fat to it, till tolerably tender ; then 



The Southern Cookbook 143 

tie the thick part of one to the thin part of the other, and 
roast the tongue and udder together. 

Serve them with a good gravy, and currant-jelly sauce. 
A few cloves should be stuck in the udder. 

This is an excellent dish. 

To Pickle Tongue for Boiling 

Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. 
Sprinkle some salt, and let it drain from the slime till next 
day : then, for each tongue, mix a large spoonful of common 
salt, the same of coarse sugar, and about half as much 
of saltpetre ; rub it in well, and do so every clay. In a 
w 7 eek add another heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every 
day, a tongue will be ready in a fortnight, but, if only turned 
in the pickle daily, it will keep four or five weeks, without 
being too salt. 

If you dry tongues, write the date on a parchment and 
tie on. Smoke them, or plainly dry if you like best. 

When to be dressed, boil it extremely tender : allow five 
hours ; and if done sooner, it is easily kept hot. The longer 
kept after drying, the higher it will be; if hard, it may 
require soaking three or four hours. 

Another Way 

Clean as above. For two tongues, one ounce of salt- 
petre, and one ounce of sal-prunella. Rub them well. In 
two days, having well rubbed them, cover them with common 
salt. Turn them daily for three weeks ; then dry, rub in 
bran, and paper or smoke them. In ten days they will be fit 
to cut if not dried. 

Beef Heart 

Wash with care. Stuff as you do hare, and serve with 
rich gravy, and currant jelly sauce. 

Hash with the same, and port wine. 



144 



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Tripe 

Tripe may be served in a tureen, stewed with milk and 
onion till tender. Melted butter for sauce. 

Or, fried in small bits dipped in butter; or slew the thin 
part cut in bits, in gravy, and thicken with flour and butter, 
and add a little catsup: or fricasseed with white sauce. 

Bubble and Squeak 

Boil, chop, and fry, with a little butter, pepper, and salt, 
some cabbage, and la} - on it slices of rare-done beef, lightly 
fried 

Stewed Tongue 

In both the following recipes, the roots must be taken 
off the tongue before salted. 

Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt- for a week, 
turning it daily. Boil it tender enough to peel. When done, 
stew it in a moderately strong gravy. Season with soy, mush- 
room catsup, cayenne, pounded cloves, and salt, if necessary. 

Serve with truffles, morels, and mushrooms. 

An Excellent Mode of Doing Tongues to eat Cold 

Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown sugar, a 
little bay salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and pimento, in finest 
powder, for fourteen days: then remove the pickle, put it in a 
small pan, and lay some butter on it; cover with a brown crust, 
and bake slowly, till so tender that a straw will pierce it. 

The thin part of tongues, if hung up to become dry, grate 
as hung beef, and likewise make a fine addition to the flavor 
of omelets. 

Leg of Veal 

Let the fillet be cut large or small, as best suits the num- 
ber of your company. The bone being taken out, fill the space 
with a fine stuffing, and let it be skewered quite round, and 
send the large side uppermost. When half roasted, if not be- 
fore, put a paper over the fat, and observe to allow a sufficient 
time, and to put it a good distance from the fire, the meat being 
very solid. You may pot some of it. 



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145 



Knuckle 

As few people are fond of boiled veal, it may be well to 
leave the knuckle small, and to take off some cutlets or collops, 
before it is dressed; but as the knuckle will keep longer 
than the fillet, it is best not to cut off the slices till wanted. 
Break the bones, to make it take less room; and, washing it 
well, put it into a saucepan with three onions, a blade of mace 
01* two, and a few pepper-corns; cover with water, arid simmer 
it till thoroughly ready. In the mean time some macaroni 
should be boiled with it, if approved; or rice, or a little rice 
flour, to give it a small degree of thickness; but do not pot too 
much. Before served, add half a pint of milk and cream, and 
let it come up with or without the meat. 

Or, fry the knuckle, with sliced onion and butter, to a 
good brown, and have ready peas, lettuce, onion, cucumber or 
two, stewed in a small quantity of water an hour, then add to 
the veal, and stew till the meat be tender enough to eat, not 
to be over-done. Throw in pepper, salt, and a bit of shred mint, 
and serve all together. 

Cutlets Maintenon 

Cut slices about three quarters of an inch thick; beat them 
with a rolling pin, and wet them on both sides with egg: dip 
them into a seasoning of bread crumbs, parsley, thyme, knotted 
marjorum, pepper, '•salt, and a little nutmeg grated: then put 
them in papers folded over, and broil them; and have ready, 
in a boat, melted butter with a little mushroom catsup. 

Cutlets, another Way 

Prepare as above, and fry them. Lay them in a dish, and 
keep them hot. Dredge a little flour, and put a bit of butter 
into the pan; brown it; then pour a little boiling water into it, 
and boil quick. Season with pepper, salt, and catsup, and pour 
over them. 



(10) 



146 



The Southern Cookbook 



Another Way 

Prepare as before, and dress the cutlets in a Dutch oven. 
Pour over them melted butter and mushrooms. Or, pepper, 
salt, and broil, especially neck steaks. They are excellent 
without herbs. 

Collops Dressed Quick 

Cut them as thin as paper, with a very sharp knife, and 
in small bits. Throw the skin, and any odd bits of the veal 
into a little water, with a dust of pepper and salt: set them on 
the fire while you beat the collops, and dip them in a season- 
ing of herbs, bread, pepper, silt, and a scrape of nutmeg, hav- 
ing first wetted them with egg; then put a bit of butter into a 
frying-pan, and give the collops a very quick fry; for as they 
are thin, two minutes will do them on both sides. Put them 
into a hot dish before the fire, then strain and thicken the 
gravy. Give a boil in the frying-pan, and^pour over the collops. 
A little catsup is an improvement. 

Another Way 

Fry them in butter, only seasoned with salt and pepper: 
then simmer them in gravy, white or brown, with bits of bacon 
served with them. 

If white, add lemon-peel and mace, and some cream. 

Veal Collops 

Cut long, thin collops: beat them welL, and lay on them a 
bit of thin bacon the same size; and spread forcemeat on that 
seasoned high, with the addition of a little garlic and cayenne. 
Roll them; up, tight, about the size of two fingers, but not 
more than t>|Bjj|L three inches long. Put a very small skewer 
to fasten eacSKfn. Rub egg over them, and pour over them 
a rich brown gravy. 

Scollops of Cold Veal or Chicken 

Mince the meat extremely small, and set it over the fire, 
with a scrape of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and a little 
cream, for a few minutes; tnen put it into the scollop-shells and 
fill them with crumbs of bread, over which put some bits of 
butter, and brown them before the fire. 



t 



The Southern Cookbook 147 

Veal or chicken, as above prepared, served in a dish, and 
lightly covered with crumbs of bread fried (or they may be 
put on it little heaps), look and eat well. 

Scotch Collops 

Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over, and rather 
round : beat with a rolling pin : grate a little nutmeg over 
them ; dip in the yolk of an egg, and fry them in a little but- 
ter, of a fine brown : pour it from them, half a pint of gravy, 
a little bit of butter rubbed into a little flour, to which put a 
yolk of an egg, two large spoonfuls of cream, and a bit of 
salt. Do not boil the sauce, but stir it until of a fine thick- 
ness to serve with the collops. 

Kidney 

Chop veal kidney, and some of the fat, likewise a little 
leek or onion, pepper, and salt. Roll it up with an egg into 
balls, and fry them. 

Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal ; or you may do it 
as follows : 

Season a large slice of fillet, before dressed, with some 
mace, pepper-corns, and two or three cloves, and lay it close 
into a potting pan that will just hold it, and fill it up with 
water, and bake it three hours. Then pound it quite small in 
a mortar, and add salt to taste. Put a little gravy that was 
baked, to it in pounding, if to be eaten soon ; otherwise, only 
a little butter, just melted. 

When done, cover it over with butter. 

To Pot Veal or Chicken With Ham . 

Cut off the scrag to boil, and cover it with onion sauce. 
It should be boiled in milk and water. Parsley and butter 
may be served with it, instead of the former sauce ; or it may 
be stewed with whole rice, small onions, and pepper-corns, 
with a very little water ; or boiled and eaten with bacon and 
greens. 

Best end, roasted, broiled as steak, or made into pies. 



148 



The Southern Cookbook 



Breast of Veal 

Before roasted if large, the two ends may be taken off 
and fried or stewed, or the whole may be roasted. Butter 
should be poured over it. 

If any is left, cut the pieces in handsome sizes, and put- 
ting them into a stew pan, pour some broth over it ; or, if you 
have none, a little water will do. Add a bunch of herbs, a 
blade or two of mace, some pepper, and an anchovy. Stew 
till the meat is tender ; thicken with butter and flour, and add 
a little catsup ; or the whole breast may be stewed, after cut- 
ting off the two ends. 

The sweetbread is to be served up whole in the middle ; 
and if you have a few mushrooms, truffles, and morels, stew 
them with it, and serve. 

Boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion sauce, is an 
excellent dish, if not old, or too fat. 

Rolled Breast of Veal 

Bone it, and take off the thick skin and gristle, and beat 
the meat with a rolling pin. Season with herbs chopped fine, 
mixed with salt, pepper, and mace. Lay some thick slices of 
fine ham, or roll into it two or three calves' tongues of a fine 
red, and boiled first an hour or two and skinned. Bind it up 
tight in a cloth, and tape it. Set it over the fire to simmer in 
a small quantity of water until it is quite tender. Some hours 
will be necessary. 

Lay it on the dresser with a board and weight on it tiii 
quite cold, 

Pigs' or calves' feet, boiled and taken from the bones, 
may be put in or around it. The different colors, laid in lay- 
ers, look well when cut ; the yolks of eggs boiled may be put 
in with beet root, grated ham, and chopped parsley. 

Shoulder of Veal 

Cut off th«: knuckle of the shoulder for a stew or gravy. 
Roast the other part, with stuffing. You may lard it. Serve 
with melted butter. 



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149 



Blade bone, with a good deal of meat left on, eats ex- 
tremely well with mushroom or oyster sauce ; or mushroom 
catsup in butter. 

Different Ways of Dressing Calf's Head 
To Boil 

Clean it very nicely, and soak it in water, that it may look 
very white. Take out the tongue to salt, and the brains to 
make a little dish. Roil the head extremely tender; then 
stew it over with crumbs and chopped parsley, and brown 
them ; or if preferred, leave one side plain. 

Bacon and greens are to be served to eat with it. 

The brains must be boiled, and then mixed with melted 
butter, chopped scalded sage, pepper, and salt. 

If any is left of the head, it may be hashed next day, and 
a few slices of bacon just warmed and put around it. 

Cold calf's head eats well. 

Hashed Calf's Head 

When half boiled, cut off the meat in slices, half an inch 
thick, and two or three inches long. Brown some butter, 
flour, and sliced onion, and throw in the slices with some good 
gravy, truffles; and morels. Give it one boil, skim it well, and 
set it in a moderate heat to simmer till tender. 

Season with pepper, salt, and cayenne, at first : and ten 
minutes before serving, throw in some shred parsley, and a 
very small bit of tarragon, and knotted marjoram, cut as fine 
as possible. 

Just before you serve, add the squeeze of a lemon. Force- 
meat balls and bits of bacon rolled round. 

Mock Turtle 

Bespeak a calf's head with the skin on : cut in half, and 
clean it well ; then half boil it. Have all the meat taken off 
in square bits, and break the bones of the head ; boil them in 
some veal and beef broth, to add to the richness. Fry some 
shallot in butter : dredge in flour sufficient to thicken the 
gravy, which stir into the browning, and give it one < two 



The Soiithern Cookbook 



boils: skim carefully, then put in the head. Put in a pint of 
Madeira wine and simmer till the meat is quite tender. About 
ten minutes before you serve, put in some basil, tarragon, chives, 
parsley, cayenne pepper, and salt to taste, and two spoonfuls 
of mushroom catsup, and one of a soy. Squeeze the juice of 
a lemon into the tureen, and pour the soup upon it. Force- 
men t balls, and small eggs. 

A Cheaper Way 

^Prepare half a calf's head, without the skin, as above. 
When the meat is cut off, break the bones, and put into a 
saucepan, with some gravy made of beef and veal bones, and 
seasoned with fried onions, herbs, mace and pepper. Have 
ready two or three ox-palates, boiled so tender as to blanch, 
and cut in small pieces ; to which a cow heel, likewise cut in 
pieces, is a great improvement. Brown some butter, flour, 
and an onion, and pour the gravy to it ; then add the meats as 
above, and stew. Half a pint of sherry wine, an anchovy, 
two spoonfuls of walnut catsup, the same of mushrooms, 
some chopped herbs as before. Balls, etc. 

Forcemeat as for Turtle, at the Bush, Bristol 

A pound of fine fresh suet, an ounce of ready-dressed veal 
or chicken, chopped fine, crumbs of bread, a little shallot or 
onion, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, pennyroyal, parsley, 
and lemon ; thyme finely shred ; beat as many fresh eggs, 
yolks and whites separately, as will make the above ingredi- 
ents into a moist paste : roll into small balls, and boil tf em in 
fresh lard, putting them in just as it boils up. When of a 
light brown, take them out, and drain them before the fire. 
If the suet be moist or stale, a great many more eggs will be 
necessary. 

Balls made this way are remarkably light ; but being 

greasy, some people prefer them with less suet and eggs. 

A ither Forcemeat, for Balls or Patties 

Pound cold eal or chicken : take out the strings : add 
z fat bacon ; and, if you like, the least portion of scraped 



The Sou them i Cookbook 



ham : herbs as for the preceding : pepper, salt, and a little 
nutmeg, crumbs of bread, a little onion, and two eggs. 

Note — When forcemeat is to be eaten cold, as in pies, 
bacon is far better than suet, and the taste is always higher. 

Another Mock Turtle 

Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine cowheels, two 
onions, a few cloves, peppers, Jamaica peppers, mace, and 
sweet herbs : cover with water, and then, tying a thick paper 
over the pan, set it in an oven for three hours. When cold, 
take off the fat very nicely : cut the meat and feet into bits an 
inch and a half square : remove the bones and coarser parts ; 
then put the other on to warm, with walnut and mushroom 
catsup, a large spoonful of each, half a pint of sherry or Ma- 
deira wine, a little mushroom powder, and the jelly of the 
meat. When hot, if it wants any more seasoning, add it, and 
serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, the juice of a lemon, 
and a spoonful of soy. 

This is a very easy process, and the dish is excellent. 

Another Mock Turtle 

Stew a pound and a half of scrag of mutton, with three 
pints of water to a quart : then set the broth on, with a calf's 
foot and a cow heel : cover the stewpan tight, and simmer till 
you can cut off the meat from the bones in proper bits. Set 
it on again, with the broth, a quarter of a pint of Madeiia or 
sherry wine, a large onion, half a spoonful of cayenne pepper, 
a bit of lemon-peel, two anchovies, some sweet herbs, and 
eighteen oysters cut in pieces, and then chopped fine, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a little nutmeg, and the liquor of the 
oysters : cover tight, and simmer three quarter of an hour. 
Serve with forcemeat balls, and hard eggs in a tureen. 

Note — Cowheels, with veai or head are a great improve- 
ment ; and if not too much boiled, have a very fine flavor stew- 
ed for turtle ; and are more solid than the calf's feet. 



The Southern Cookbook 



Calf's Head Pie 

Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with two onions, 
a few isinglass shavings, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, 
and a few pepper-corns, in two quarts or less water. Keep the 
broth for the pie. Take off a bit of the meat for the balls, 
and let the other be eaten; but simmer the bone in the 
brothj.int.il it is very good. Half boil the head, and cut it 
in square bits : put a layer of ham at the bottom, then some 
head, first fat and then lean, with balls and hard eggs cut in 
half, and so on till the dish be full ; but be particularly care- 
ful not to place the pieces close or the pie will be too solid, 
and there will be no space for the jelly. The meat must first 
be pretty well seasoned with salt and pepper, and a scrape 
or two of nutmeg. Put a little water and a little gravy into 
the dish, and cover it with a tolerably thick crust : bake in a 
slow oven ; and when done, pour into it as much gravy as 
it can hold, and do not cut it till perfectly cold : in doing 
which, observe to use a very sharp knife, and first cut out a 
large bit, going down to the bottom of the dish : and when 
done thus, the different colors, and clear jelly, have a beauti- 
ful marbled appearance. 

A small pie may be made to eat hot ; which, with high 
seasoning, oysters, mushrooms, truffles, morels, etc. has a 
very good appearance. 

The cold pie will keep some days. Slices make a pretty 
side dish. 

The pickled tongues of former calves' beads may be cut 
in, to vary the color, instead of, or besides ham. 

Calf's Head Fricasseed 

Clean, and half boil, half a head. Cut the meat in small 
bits, and put in a tosser, with a little gravy made of the bones 
and some of the water it was boiled in, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
n, and a blade of mace. If you have a sweet bread, or 
young cockerel in the house, use the cockscombs, having first 
boile'" them tender and blanched. Season the gravy with a 



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153 



little pepper, nutmeg and salt : rub down some flour and but- 
ter, and give all a boil together ; then remove the herbs and 
onions, and add a little cup of cream, but do not boil it in. 
Serve with small bits of bacon rolled round, and balls. 

Veal Patties 

Mince some veal, that is not quite done, with a little 
parsley, lemon-peel, a scrape of nutmeg, and a little salt : add 
a little cream and gravy just to moisten the meat ; and if you 
have any ham, scrape a little bit and add to it. Do not warm 
it till the patties are baked ; and observe to put a bit of bread 
into each to prevent the paste from rising into the cake. 

Fricandeau 

Cut a large piece out of the prime part of a leg of veal 
about nine inches long, and half as broad and thick : Beat it 
with a rolling pin ; then lard it very thickly on one side and 
the edges. Put it in a small stewpan, with three pints of 
water, a pound of veal cut in small bits, and four or five ounces 
of lean ham, and an onion : simmer till the meat is tender ; 
then take it out ; cover to make moist, and boil the gravy till 
it is a fine brown, and much reduced : then put the larded 
meat back into the gravy and pour a little of it over with a 
spoon. When quite hot serve the meat and gravy around in 
the dish, with the following sauce in a boat. 

Sorrel Sauce 

Wash a quantity of sorrel, and boil it tender in the small- 
est quantity of water you can : strain and chop it : stew it 
with a little butter, pepper and salt ; and if you like it high, 
add a spoonful of gravy. 

Be careful to do it in a very well-tinned saucepan ; or if 
you have a silver one or a silver mug, it is far better ; as the 
sorrel is very sour, especially in spring. 

Veal Olives 

Cut long thin collops : beat them, and lay on them thin 
slices of fat bacon, and cover a layer of force. neat sea ned 
high, with the addition of shred shallot, and cayenne. 



154 



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them tight, about the size of two fingers, but not more than 
two or three inches long : fasten them around with a small 
skewer : rub egg over, and fry them a light brown. Serve 
with brown gravy. 

Calf's Liver 

Sliced : seasoned with pepper and salt, and nicely broiled. 
Rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve hot. 

Roasted 

Wash and wipe it : then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it 
with crumbs of bread, chopped anchovy, herbs, a good deal of 
fat bacon, onion, salt, pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg. 
Sew the liver up ; then lard cr wrap it In a veal caul, and 
roast it. 

Serve with a good brown gravy, and currant-jelly, 

Sweetbreads 

Half boil, and stew in a white gravy. Add cream, flour, 
butter, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper : or, in brown, season- 
ed : or, after par-boiling, cover with crumbs, herbs, seasoning, 
and brown in a Dutch oven. Serve with butter, and mush- 
room catsup, or gravy. 

Sweetbread Ragout 

Cut them about the size of a walnut : then fry a fine 
brown. Pour to them a good gravy, seasoned with salt, pep- 
per, allspice, mushrooms, or the catsup Strain, and thicken 
with butter, and a little flour. You may add truffles, and 
morels, and the mushrooms. 

Veal Sausages 

Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a hand- 
ful of c age, a little salt, pepper, and a few anchovies. Beat 
all in a mortar ; and when used, roll and fry, and serve with 

fried sippets. 

>padbury's veal and pork sausages, under the article of 



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155 



To Make Excellent Meat of a Hog's Head 

Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the ears, and 
sprinkle it with common salt for a day : then drain. Salt it 
well with common salt and saltpetre three days ; then lay 
salt and head into water (a small quantity) for two days. 
Wash it, and boil it till all the bones will come out : remove 
them, and chop the head as quick as possible ; having skinned 
the tongue, and taken the skin carefully off the head, to put 
under and over. Season with pepper, salt, a little mace or 
Jamaica. Put the skin into a small pan : press the cut head 
in, and put the other skin over : press it down. When cold, 
it will turn out and make a kind of brawn. If too fat you may 
put a few bits of lean pork to go through the same process. 
Add salt and vinegar, and boil some of the liquor for a pickle 
to keep it. 

To Scald a Sucking Pig 

The moment the pig is killed, put it into cold water for a 
few minutes ; then rub it over with a little rosin, beaten ex- 
tremely small, and put it into a pail of scalding water half a 
minute ; take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as 
quickly as possible. If any part does not come off, put it in 
again. When perfectly clean, wash it well with warm water, 
then in two or three cold waters, lest any flavor of the rosin 
should remain. Take off the four feet at the joint : make a 
slit down the belly, and take out the entrails : put the liver, 
heart, and lights to the feet ; wash the pig well in cold water, 
dry it thoroughly, and fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from 
the air. 

To Roast a Sucking Pig 

If you can get it when just killed, it is of great advantage. 
Let it be scalded, which those who sell usually do. Then put 
some sage, crumbs of bread, salt, and pepper in the bell)', and 
sew it up. Observe to skewer the legs back, or the under 
part will not crisp. 

Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry ; then hav 
some butter, in a dry cloth, and rub the pig with it ir 



1 5 6 



The Southern Cookbook 



part. Dredge as'much flour over as will possibly lay,and touch 
it no more till ready to serve ; then scrape off the flour with the 
greatest care, with a blunt knife : rub it well with the buttered 
cloth : take off the head while yet at the fire, and take out the 
brains, and mix them with the gravy that comes from the pig. 
Then take it up, and without withdrawing the spit, cut it 
down the back and belly : lay it in the dish, and chop the sage 
and bread quickly, as fine as you can. and mix a large quantitv 
of fine melted butter, which has very little flour. Put the 
sauce into the dish after the pig has been split down the back, 
and garnish with two ears, and the two jaws ; the upper part 
of the head being taken off down to the snout. 

In Devon, it is served whole if very small ; the head only 
being cut off. 

Potatoes 

Boil them, and the liver and heart, in a small quantity of 
water verv gently : then cut the meat fine, and simmer it 
with a little of the water and the feet split, till the latter be 
: uite tender. Thicken with a bit of butter, a little flour, 
a spoonful of cream, a little salt, and pepper : give a boil up, 
and pour over a few sippets of bread, and put the feet on the 
mince. 

Porker's Head, Roasted 

Choose a fine young head, clean it well, and put bread 
and sage as for pig : sew it up tight, and put it on a string or 
hanging jack. Roast it as a pig, and serve with the same 

sauce. 

Pig's Cheek for Boiling 

Cut off the snout, and clean the head: divide it, take out 
the eves and the brains, and sprinkling the head with salt, 
let it drain twentv-four hours. Salt it with common salt and 
saltpetre. Let it lay eight or ten days, if to be dressed with- 
out stewing \\ : «th peas ; bu-t less, if to be dressed with peas ; 
-nH o.'hiust b«- washed first, and then simmered till all is 



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157 



Collard Head 

Scour the head and ears nicely ; take off the hair and 
snout, and take out the eyes and the brain ; lay it in water 
one night ; then drain and salt it extremely well with common 
salt and saltpetre, and let it lay five days. Boil it enough to 
remove the bones, then lay it on a dresser, turning the thick 
end of one side of the head towards the thin end of the other, 
to make the roll of equal size, sprinkle it well with salt 
and white pepper, and roll it with the ears ; and if you 
approve, pat the pig's feet around the outside when boned ; 
or the thin parts of two cowheels. Bind it in a cloth and with 
a broad tape, and boil it till quite tender ; then put a good 
weight upon it, and do not remove the covering till cold. 

If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it longer, and 
let the proportion of saltpetre be greater, putting in some 
pieces of lean pork, and then cover it with cowheels, to look 
like the horn. 

This may be kept in or out of pickle of salt and water 
boiled with vinegar, and is a very convenient thing to have 
in the house. 

If likely to spoil, slice and fry it with or without butter. 

To Roast a Leg of Pork 

Choose a small leg of fine young pork, cut a slit in the 
knuckle with a sharp knife, and fill the space with sage and 
onion, chopped, and a little pepper and salt. When half done, 
score the skin in slices, but do not cut deeper than the outer 
rind. 

Apple sauce and potatoes should be served to eat with it. 

To Boil a Leg of Pork 

Salt it eight or ten days ; when to be dressed, weigh it ; 
let it lay half an hour in cold water to make it white ; allow 
a quarter of an hour for every pound, and half an hour over 
from the time it boils up : skim it as soon as it boils, and fre- 
quently after. Allow enough water. Save some of it to 
make pease soup. Some boil in a very nice cloth, ftuiifed, 
which gives a very delicate look. 

Serve pease pudding and turnips. 



IS8 



TJu Southern Cookbook 



Different Ways of Dressing Pig's Feet and Ears 

Clean them carefully, and soak them some hours : boil 
them tender then take them out, and with some of the water 
boil some vinegar and a little salt, and when cold put over 
them. When to be dressed, dry them, divide the feet in two, 
and slice the ears ; fry and serve them with butter, mustard, 
and vinegar. They mav be done in butter or only floured. 

Feet and Ears Fricasseed 

Put no vinegar in the pickle, if it is to be dressed with 
cream. Cut the feet and ears into neat bits, and boil them in 
a little milk ; then pour that from them, and simmer in a 
little veal broth, with a bit of onion, mace and lemon-peel. 
Before vou serve, add a little cream, flour, butter, and salt. 

Jelly of Feet and Ears 

Clean and prepare as in the foregoing recipe ; then boil a 
verv small quantity of water until every bone can be taken 
out ; throw in half a handful of chopped sage, the same of 
parslev, a seasoning of pepper, salt, and mace, in fine powder; 
simmer till the herbs are scalded, then pour the whole into a 
melon form. 

Pork Steaks 

Cut them from a loin of neck, of middling thickness : 
pepper and broil them, turning often. When nearly done, 
put the salt necessary, rub a bit of butter over, and serve the 
moment they are taken off the fire ; a few at a time. 

To Cure Hams. First Way 

Hang them a day or two ; then sprinkle with a little salt, 
and drain them another day. Pound an ounce and a half of 
saltpetre, the same salt, half an ounce of sal-prunel, and a 
pound of the coarsest sugar ; mix these well and rub into each 
-verv dav for four days, and turn it. If a small one, turn it 
x every day r n three weeks ; if a large one, a week longer ; but 
do not rub after four days. Before you dry it, drain and 
it h bran. Smoke in ten days. 



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159 



Another Way. Second Way 

Choose a leg of a hog that is fat and well fed ; hang as 
above. To it, if large, put in fine powder, one pound of bay 
salt, four ounces saltpetre, one pound of the coarsest sugar, 
and one handful of common salt, and rub it thoroughly. Lay 
the rind downwards, and cover the fleshy part with the salts. 
Baste it as often as you can with the pickle, the more the 
better. Keep it four weeks in the pickle, turning it daily. 
Drain and threw bran over it ; then hang it in a chimney 
where wood is burnt, and turn it sometimes for ten days. 

Another Way. Third Way 

Hang the ham and sprinkle with salt as above, then rub 
it daily with the following in fine powder : half a pound of 
salt, the same of bay salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and two 
ounces of black pepper, mixed with a pound and a half of 
treacle. Turn it twice a day in the pickle for three weeks. 
Lay it in a pail of water for one night, wipe it dry, and smoke 
it two or three weeks. 

Another way, that gives a High Flavor. Fourth way 

When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days; 
mix an ounce of saltpetre with one quarter of a pound of bay 
salt, ditto common salt, ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of 
strong beer; boil them together, and pour over immediately on 
the ham, turn it twice a day in the pickle for three weeks. 
An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento in finest powder, 
added to the 'above, will give still more flavor. Cover with 
bran when wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as 
you approve; the latter will make it harder, and more of the 
flavor of Westphalia. Sew hams in hessings, i. e. coarse wrap- 
per, if to be smoked where there is strong fire. 

A Method of Giving a Still Higher Flavor 

Sprinkle the ham with salt after it has hung two or three 
days; let drain; make a pickle of a quart of strong beer, half a 
pound of treacle, an ounce of coriander seeds, two ounces of 
juniper berries, an ounce of pepper, ditto pimento, an ounce 



i6o 



The Southern Cookbook 



of saltpetre, half an ounce of sal-prunel, . a handful of com- 
mon salt, and a head of shallot, all pounded or cut fine. Boil 
these together a new minutes, and pour over the ham; this 
quantity for one of ten pounds. Rub and turn it every day, 
for a fortnight; then sew it up in a thin linen bag, and smoke 
it three weeks. Observe to drain it from the pickle, and rub 
it in bran previous to drying. 

Hog's Cheeks, to dry 

The snout being cut off, the brains removed, and the 
head cleft, but not cut apart on the upper side, rub it well with 
the salt. Next day remove the brine, and sait it again; the 
following day cover the head with half an ounce of saltpetre, 
two ounces of bay salt, a little common, and four ounces of 
coarsest sugar. Let the head be often turned. In twelve days 
smoke for a week like bacon. 

To Dress Hams 

If long hung, put the ham into water, and either dig a 
hole in the the earth, or let it lie on damp stones, sprinkled 
with water to mellow, two or three days, covering it with a 
heavy tub, to keep vermin from it. Wash it well, and put it 
into a boiler with plenty of water. Let it simmer four, five, 
or six hours, according to size. When sufficiently done, if 
before the time of serving, cover it with a clean cloth doubled, 
and keep the dish hot over boiling water. Remove the skin, 
and strew raspings over the ham. Garnish with carrot. Pre- 
serve the skin as whole as possible, to keep over the ham when 
cold, which will prevent its drying. 

The Manner of Curing Wiltshire Bacon 

Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off 
for. twenty-four hours; then mix one pound and a half of coarse 
sugar, ditto of bay salt, not quite so much as half a pound of 
saltpetre, and a pound of common salt, and rub it well on the 
bacon, turning it every day for a month; then hang it to dry, 
and afterwards smoke it ten days. The above salts are for the 
whole hog. 



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161 



To Pickle Pork 

The quantities proportioned to the middlings of a pretty 
large hog; the hams and shoulders being cut off. 

Mix and pound fine four ounces of saltpetre, one ounce 
of sal-prunel, and a little common salt. Having sprinkled the 
pork with salt, and drained it twenty-hours, rub it with the 
above, and then pack the pieces tight in a small deep tub, fill- 
ing up the spaces with common salt. Place large pebbles on 
the pork, to prevent it swimming in the pickle which the salt 
will produce. 

Sausages 

Chop fat and lean pork; season with sage, pepper, and 
salt; and you may add two or three pimentos. Half fill hog's 
guts, that have been soaked and made extremely clean, or the 
meat may be kept in a very small pan, closely covered; and so 
rolled and dusted with a very little flour before they are fried. 

An Excellent Sausage to Eat Cold 

Season fat and lean pork with some salt, saltpetre, black 
and Jamaica pepper, all in finest powder, and well rubbed into 
the meat. The sixth day cut it small, and mix with it some 
shred shallot, or garlic, as fine as possible. Have ready an 
ox gut that has been scoured, salted and soaked well, and fill 
it with the above stuffing; tie up the ends, and hang it to 
smoke as you would hams; but first wrap it in a fold or two of 
old muslin. It must be high dried. Some eat it without 
boiling, others like it boiled first. The skin should be tied in 
-different places, making each link about eight or nine inches 
long. 

Spadbury's Oxford Sausages 

Chop a pound and a half of pork, and same of veal, cleared 
of the skin and sinews. Add three quarters of a pound of 
beef suet, mince and mix them. Steep the crumbs of a penny 
loaf in water, and with a little dried sage, pepper, and salt, 
mix with the meat. 
(ID 



162 



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Black Puddings 

The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put a quart 
of it or rather more, to a quart of old grits, to soak one night; 
and soak the crumbs of a quarter loaf in rather more than two 
quarts of new milk, made hot. In the mean time prepare the 
guts, by washing and scraping with salt and water, and chang- 
iug the water several times. Chop fine a little winter sav- 
ory and thyme, a great deal of pennyroyal, pepper, salt, a few 
cloves, allspice, ginger and nutmeg. Mix these with three 
pounds of beef suet, and six eggs well beaten and strained, 
and then beat the bread, grits, etc., all up with the seasoning. 
When all mixed, have ready some hog fat cut in large bits, 
and as you fill the skins put it in at proper distances. Tie 
them in links, having only half filled them, and boil them in a 
large kettle, pricking them as they swell, or they will burst. 
When boiled lay them between clean cloths till cold, and hang 
them up in the kitchen. When to be used, scald them a few 
minutes in water, wipe and put them in a Dutch oven. 

If there are not sufficient skins, put the stuffing in ba- 
sins, and boil, covered with floured cloths; and slice and fry. 

Black Puddings, Another Way 

Soak a quart of bruised grits in two quarts of hot milk, 
or less, if sufficient to swell them. Chop a good quantity of 
pennyroyal, some savory and thyme, salt, pepper, and Jamaica 
pepper, finely powdered. Mix the above with a quart of the 
blood, prepared as before ; then half fill the skins, after they 
have been cleaned most thoroughly, and put as much of the 
leaf, i. e. fat of the pig, as shall make it very rich. Boil as 
before directed. 

White Hog's Pudding 

W T hen the skins have been soaked and cleaned as before 
directed, rinse and soak them all night in rosewater, and put 
in them the following filling : mix half a pound of blanched 
almonds, cut into seven or eight bits, with one pound of grated 
bread, two pounds of marrow or suet, one pound of currants, 



The Southern Cookbook 



some beaten cinnamon, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, a quart of 
cream, yolks of six, and whites of two eggs, a little orange- 
flower water, a little fine Lisbon sugar, some lemon-peel, and 
citron sliced, and half fill the skins. Boil as before directed. 

Hog's Lard 

Should be carefully melted in a jar, put into a kettle of 
water, and boiled and run into bladders that have been ex- 
tremely well cleaned, the smaller they are the better the 
lard keeps ; as after the air reaches it, it becomes rank. Put 
in a sprig of rosemary when melted. 

This being a most useful article for frying fish, it shculd 
be prepared with care. Mixed with butter it makes fine crust. 

Pig's Harslet 

Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat and lean 
bits of pork ; beating the latter, with a rolling pin to make it 
tender. Season with pepper, salt, sage, and a little onion, 
shred fine. Put all when mixed into a cawl, and fasten it up 
tight with a needle and thread. Roast it on a hanging jack, 
or by a string; or serve in slices with parsley for a fry. 

Serve with sauce of port and water, and mustard just 
boiled up, and put into the dish. 

Loins and Neck of Pork Roast 

Shoulders and breasts put into pickle, salt the former as 
a leg. 

Rolled Neck 

Bone it. Put a forcemeat of chopped sage, a very few 
crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, and two or three pimentos 
over the inside.: then roll the meat as tight as you can, and 
roast it slowly, and at a good distance from the fire' at first. 

To make a Pickle for Hams, Tongues, or Beef, that will 
keep for years if Skimmed between each Parce. of them 

To two gallons of spring water, put two pounds of coarse 
sugar, two pounds of bay, and two and a half pounds of 
common salt, and half a pound of saltpetre, in a deep earthen 



1 64 



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glazed pan, that will hold four gallons, and has a cover that 
will fit close. Keep the beef or hams as long as they will 
bear, before you put them into the pickle, and sprinkle 
them with coarse sugar in a pan, from which they must 
drain. Rub the hams, etc., well with the pickle, and pack 
them in close, putting as much as the pan will hold, so that 
the pickle will cover them. The pickle is not to be boiled at 
first. A small ham may lay fourteen days, a large one, three 
weeks ; a tongue twelve days ; beef in proportion to its size. 
Thev will eat well out of the pickle without drying. When 
to be dried, let each piece be drained over the pan, and when 
it will drop no longer, take a clean sporge and dry it thor- 
oughly. Six or eight hours will smoke them ; and theie 
should be only a little sawdust and wet straw burnt to smoke 
them : but if put into a baker's chimney, sew them in coarse 
cloth, and hang them a week. 

Excellent Bacon 

When the hog is divided, if a laige one. the chine should 
be cut out. The bacon will be preserved from being rusty, 
if the spareribs are left in. Salt the bacon six days ; then 
drain it from the first pickle. Mix as much salt as you judge 
proper with eight ounces of bay salt, four ounces of saltpetre, 
and one pound of coarse sugar, to each hog, the hams being 
first cut off. Rub the salts well in, and turn it every day for 
a month. Drain, and smoke a few days ; or dry without, by 
hanging in the kitchen, not near the fire. 

Mutton, The Haunch 

Keep as long as it can be preserved sweet, by the differ- 
ent modes of keeping. Let it be washed with warm milk and 
water, if necessary ; but soak off the flavor from keeping. 
Put a coarse paste on strong paper, and fold the haunch in ; 
set it at a great distance from the fire, and allow proportion- 
able time for the paste, which do not remove till about thirty- 
five or forty minutes before serving ; then paste perpetually. 
You will have brought the haunch nearer to the fire before 
you take off the paste, and must froth it up as you would 
venison. 



The Southern Cookbook 



A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of loin of 
old mutton, simmered in a pint of water to half, and no 
seasoning but salt. Brown it with a little burnt sugar, and 
send it up in the meat ; for though long at the fire, the dis- 
tance and covering will prevent its being done dry. Serve 
with currant jelly sauce. 

Legs roasted, and onion or currant jelly sauce ; or, boiled, 
with caper sauce and vegetables. 

Necks are particularly useful, as so many dishes may be 
made of them ; but they are advantageous for the family. 
The bones should be cut short ; which the butcher will not do 
unless particularly desired. 

Note. When there is more fat to a neck or loin of mut- 
ton than is agreeable to eat with the lean, it makes an 
uncommonly good suet pudding, or crust for a meat pie, being 
cut very fine. 

The best end of the neck boiled, and served with 
turnips ; or toasted ; or in steaks, in pies, or haricot. 

The scrag stewed in broth, or with a small quantity of 
water, some small onions, a few pepper-corns and a little rice, 
and served together. 

Haricot 

Take off some of the fat, and cut the middle or best end 
of the neck into rather thin steaks. Put the fat into a frying- 
pan, and, flouring, fry them in it of a fine brown, but not 
enough for eating. Put them in a dish while you fry the car- 
rots, turnips, and onions ; the former in dice, the latter sliced; 
but they must only be warmed, not browned, or you need not 
fry them. Then lay the steaks at the bottom of the stewpan, 
the vegetables over, and pour as much boiling water on them 
as will just cover : give one boil, skim well, and then set the 
pan on the side of the fire to simmer gently till tender : in 
three or four hours skim, and add pepper and salt, and one 
spoonful of catsup. 



i66 The Southern Cookbook 



Mutton Pie 

Cut steaks from a loin or neck of mutton : beat them and 
remove some of the fat. Season with salt, pepper, and a lit- 
tle onion. Put a little water at the bottom of the dish, and a 
little paste on the edge ; then cover with a moderately thick 
paste. Or, raise small pies, and breaking each bone in two to 
shorten it, season and cover it over, pinching the edge. 
When they come out, pour a spoonful of gravy, made of a bit 
of mutton, into each. The mutton should have hung. 

Mutton and Potato Pie 

Season the steaks of a loin or neck ; lay them in a dish: 
have ready potatoes mashed very thick, with some milk, and 
a bit of butter and salt, and cover the meat as with a very 
thick crust, and to come on the surrounding edge. 

Mutton Pudding 

Season as above. Lay one layer of steaks at the bottom 
of the dish, and pour a batter of potatoes boiled and pressed 
through a colander, and mixed with milk and egg, over them: 
then putting the rest of the steaks and batter, bake it. 

Butter with flour, instead of potatoes; eats well, but re- 
quires more eggs, and is not so good. 

Mutton Sausages 

Take a pound of the rawest part of a leg of mutton, that 
has been either roasted or boiled : chop it extremely small : 
season with pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg. Add six ounces 
of beef suet, some sweet herbs, two anchovies, and a pint of 
oysters, all chopped very small ; a quarter of a pound of grated 
bread, some of the anchovy liquor, and all that came from the 
oysters : the yolks and whites of two eggs well-beaten. Put 
it all, when well-mixed, into a little pot, and use it by rolling it 
into balls or sausage shape, and fry them. If approved a lit- 
tle shallot may be added ; or garlic, which is a great improve- 
ment. 



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Mutton Steaks 

Should be cut from a loin or neck that has hung. If the 
latter, the bones should not be long. They should be broiled 
on a clear fire, and seasoned when half done, and frequently 
turned ; when taken into a very hot dish, rub a bit of butter 
on each, and serve hot the moment they are done. 

They may be covered with forcemeat. 

Mutton Collops 

Cut from that part of a well hung loin of mutton which is 
next the leg, some collops very thin. Take out the sinews, 
season them with salt, pepper and mace, and strew over them 
shred parsley, thyme, and two^r three shallots. Fry them in 
butter till half clone. Add half a pint of gravy, a little juice 
of lemon, and piece of butter rubbed in flour, and simmer the 
whole very gently five minutes. They should be served im- 
mediately, or they will be hard. 

Lamb Steaks 

Fry a beautiful brown. Throw over them when served, 
a good quantity of crumbs of bread fried, and chopped parsley: 
the receipt for doing which of a fine color, is given under the 
article of vegetables. 

Mutton and lamb steaks, seasoned and broiled in buttered 
papers, either with crumbs and herbs, or without, are a gen- 
teel dish, and eat well. 

Sauce for them, called Robart, under the list of sauces. 

Saddle or loin of mutton, roasted : the former .a fashiona- 
ble dish. 

Shoulder of mutton, roasted, and onion sauce. Bladebone 
broiled. 

Shoulder of Mutton Boiled With Oysters 

Hang it some days, then salt it well for two. Bone it 
and sprinkle it with pepper, and a bit of mace pounded. Lay 
some oysters over it, and roll the meat up tight with a fillet. 
Stew it in a small quantity of water, with an onion, and a few 
pepper-corns, till quite tender. 

Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters stewed 



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in it : thicken with flour and butter, and pour over the mut- 
ton when the tape is removed. The stewpan should be kept 
close covered. 

Breast of Mutton 

The superfluous fat being cut off, roast, and serve with 
stewed cucumbers : or, to eat cold, having covered it with 
chopped parsley : or half boiled, and then grilled before the 
fire, being covered with caper sauce : or boned, a good deal of 
the fat being taken off, and covered with bread, herbs, and 
seasoning ; then rolled and boiled, and served with chopped 
walnuts, or capers and butter. 

Rolled Loin of Mutton 

Hang the mutton, to be tender.* Bone it, and lay a sea- 
soning of pepper, pimento, mace, nutmeg, a few cloves, all in 
fine powder, over it. Next day prepare a stuffing as for a hare, 
beat the meat, and cover it with the stuffing, roll it tight, and 
fillet it. Half bake it in a slow oven : let it grow cold : flour 
the meat, and put it in likewise; stew till near ready, and add 
a glass of port wine, some catsup, an anchovy, and a little 
lemon pickle, half an hour before serving, which do in the 
gravy, and with jelly sauce. A few fresh mushrooms are a 
great improvement but not if to eat like hare, nor add the 
lemon pickle. 

Rumps, kidneys; livers, and hearts, well washed, season- 
ed, and broiled, and served with cold butter rubbed on 
them. 

Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb and Cucumber 

Quarter cucumbers, and lay them in a dish; sprinkle them 
with salt, and pour vineger over. Fry chops of a fine brown, 
and put them in a stewpan: put some sliced onions, pepper, 
and salt: pour hot water or weak broth on them: stew and skim 
well. 



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An Excellent Hotchpotch 

Stew peas, lettuce and onions, in a very little water, with 
a beef or ham bone. While doing, fry some mutton or lamb 
steaks, seasoned, of a nice brown. Three quarters of an hour 
before dinner put the steaks into a stewpan, and the vegetables 
over: stew them, and serve all together in a tureen. 

Another Hotchpotch 

Knuckle of veal, and scrag of mutton, stewed with vege- 
tables as above. 

Mutton Ham 

Choose a finegrained leg of wether mutton, of twelve or 
fourteen pounds weight. Let it be, cut ham-shape, and hang 
two days: then put into a stewpan half a pound of bay salt, 
the same of common salt, two ounces of saltpetre, half a 
pound of coarsest sugar, all in powder: mix and make it quite 
hot; then rub it well into the ham, let it be turned in the liquor 
daily. At the end of four days put two ounces more of com- 
mon salt: in twelve days take it out, dry, and hang it up in the 
wood-smoke a week. 

Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese Way 

Cat the chops, and half fry them, with sliced shallot and 
onion, chopped parsley and two bay leaves; seasoned with pep- 
per and salt. Then lay a forcemeat on a piece of white paper, 
put the chop on it, cover with forcemeat, and twist the paper 
up, leaving a hole for the end of the bone to go through. Boil 
-on a gentle fire. Serve with saute Robart; or, as the seasoning 
makes the cutlets high, a little gravy. 

Lamb 

Leg boiled in a cloth to look as white as possible; the loin 
fried in steak and served round, garnished with dried or 
fried parsley. Spinach to eat with it. Or dressed separately, 
or roasted. 



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Lamb's Head and Hinge 

That of a house lamb is best, but either, if soaked in cold 
water, will be white. Boil the head separately till very tender, 
and have ready the liver and lights cut small. After being 
three parts boiled, stew them in a little of the water in which 
they were boiled. Season and thicken with flour and butter, 
and serve the mince around the head. 

Fore -quarter of Lamb 

Roasted whole; or separately. If left to be cold, chopped 
parsley should be sprinkled over it. 



SOUPS 



Giblet Soup 

Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or duck giblets; 
then set them on to stew with a scrag of mutton, or a pound 
of gravy beef, or bone of knuckle of veal, an ox tail, or some 
shank bones of mutton; three onions, a blade of mace, ten pep- 
per-corns, two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two quarts 
of water. Simmer till the gizzards are quite tender, which 
must be cut in three or four parts; then put in a .little cream, 
a spoonful of flour rubbed smooth with it, and a spoonful of 
mushroom catsup; or two glasses of sherrv or Madeira wine 
instead of cream, and some cayenne. 

Turnip Soup 

Stew down a knuckle of veal: strain, and let the broth 
stand till next dav; take off the fat and sediment, and warm it, 
adding turnips cut in small dice: stew till they are tender: put 
a bit of pounded mace, white pepper, and salt. Before you 
serve, rub down half a spoonful of flour, with halt a pint of 
cream, and boil with the soup: pour it on a roll in the tureen; 
but it should have soaked a little first in the soup, which 
should be as thick as middling cream. 

Old Pea Soup 

Save the water of boiled pork or beef : if too salt, use 
only a part, and the other of plain water: or put some roast 
beef bones, or a ham or bacon bone to give relish : an anchovy 
or two. Set these on with some good split or whole peas, the 
smallest quantity of water at first the better : simmer till the 
peas will pulp through a colander ; then set that, and some 
more of the liquor, besides what boiled the peas, some car- 
rots, turnips, celery, and onion, or leek or two, to stew till all 
is tender. Celery will take less time, and may be put in an 
hour before dinner. When ready, put fried bread in dice, 
dried mint rubbed small, pepper, and, if wanted, salt, in the 
tureen, and pour the soup upon them. 



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Green Pea Soup 

In shelling, divide the old from the young, and put the 
former, with a bit of butter, and a little water in the stew- 
pan, and the old parts of lettuce, an onion or two, a little pep- 
per and salt. Simmer till the peas will pulp through a colan- 
der ; which when done, add to it some more water, and that 
which boiled the peas, the best parts of the lettuce and 
the young peas, a handful of spinach cut small, pepper, and 
salt to taste. Stew till the vegetables are quite tender ; and 
a few minutes before serving, throw in seme green mint, cut 
fine. Should the soup be too thin, a spoonful of rice flour, 
rubbed down with a bit of butter, and boiled with it, will give 
it consistence. 

Note. If soup or gravy is too weak, the cover of the 
saucepan should be taken off, and the steam let out, boiling it 
very quickly. 

When there is plenty of vegetables, green pea soup needs 
no meat': but, if approved, a pig's foot, or a small bit of any 
sort, may be boiled with the old peas and removed into the 
second process till the juices shall be obtained. Observe, 
three or four ounces of butter will supply richness to a soup 
without meat, or make it higher with it. 

Gravy Soup 

Wash a leg of beef, break the bone, and set it over the 
lire with five quarts of water, a large bunch of herbs, two 
onions, sliced and fried, but not burnt, a blade or two of mace, 
three cloves, twenty Jamaica peppers, and forty black. Sim- 
mer till the soup be as rich as you choose ; then strain off the 
meat, which will be fit for the servant's table. Next day 
take off the cake of fat, and that will warm with vegetables ; 
or make a pie-crust for the same. Have ready such vege- 
tables as you choose to serve, cut in dice, cairot, and turnip, 
sliced, and simmer till tender. Celeiy should be stewed in it 
likewise ; and before you serve, boil seme vermicelli leng 
enough to be tender, which it will be in fifteen minutes. 
Add a spoonful of soy, and one of mushroom catsup. Some 



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173 



people do not serve the vegetables, only boil for the flavor. 
A small roll should be made hot, and kept long enough in the 
saucepan to swell, and then be sent up in the tureen. 

A Rich White Soup 

Boil in a small quantity of water a knuckle of veal, and 
scrag of mutton, mace, white pepper, two or three onions, and 
sweet herbs, the day before you want the soup. Next day 
take off the fat, and put the jelly into a saucepan, with a 
quarter of a pound of sweet almonds blanched, and beaten to 
a paste in a mortar with a little water to prevent oiling, and 
put to it a piece of stale white bread, or crumb of a roll, abit 
of cold veal, or white of chicken. Beat these all to a paste 
with the almond paste, and boil it a few minutes with a pint 
of raw thick cream, a bit of fresh lemon-peel, and half a blade 
of mace pounded ; then add this thickening to the soup. Let 
it boil up, and strain it into the tureen ; if not salt enough, 
then put it in. If macaroni or vermicelli be served, they 
should be boiled in the sc/up, and the thickening be strained 
after being mixed with a part. A small rasped roll may be 
put in. 

Instead of the cream thickening, as above, ground rice 
and a little cream may be used. 

A Plainer White Soup 

Of a small knuckle of veal, two or three pints of soup 
may be made, with seasoning as before, and both seived to- 
gether, with the addition of a quarter of a pint of good milk. 

An Excellent Soup 

A scrag or knuckle of veal, slices of undressed gammon, 
onions, mace and a small quantity of water, simmered till very 
strong, and lower it with a good beef broth made the da)' be- 
fore, and stewed until the meat is gone to rags. Add cream, 
vermicelli, almonds as before, and a roll. 

Carrot Soup 

Put some beef bones, with four quarts of the liquor in 
which a leg of mutton or beef has been boiled, two large 
onions, one turnip, pepper and salt, into a saucepan, and stew 



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for three hours. Have ready six large carrots, cut thin after 
they are scraped ; strain the soup on them, and stew till soft 
enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse clolh ; then 
boil the pulp with the soup: which is to be as thick as pea 
soup. Use two wooden spoons to rub the carrots through. 
Make the soup the day before it is to be used. Add cayenne. 

Onion Soup * 

To the water that has boiled a leg or neck of mutton, put 
carrots, turnips, and, if you have one, a shank bone, and sim- 
mer till the juices are obtained. Strain it on six onions previ- 
ously sliced, and fried a light brown ; with which simmer it 
three hours. Skim it carefully, and serve it. Put into it a 
little roll of fried bread. 

Vegetable Soup 

Pare and slice five or six cucumbers, the inside of as 
many cos lettuces, a sprig or two of mint, two or three 
onions, some pepper and salt, a pint and a half of young peas, 
and a little parsley. Put these, with half a pound of fresh 
butter,into a saucepan to stew in their own liquor near a gen- 
tle fire half an hour ; then pour two quarts of boiling water 
to the vegetables, and stew them two hours : rub down a 
little flour into a teacup of water ; boil it with the rest, 
fifteen or twenty minutes, and serve it. 

Another Vegetable Soup 

Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, six carrots, 
and four turnips ; fry them in half a pound of butter ; pour on 
them four quarts of boiling water, and toast a crust of bread 
as brown and hard as possible, but do not burn it : put that, 
some celery, sweet herbs, white pepper and salt, to the above ; 
stew gently four hours, strain through a coarse cloth : have 
ready sliced carrot, celery, and a little turnip, and add to your 
liking ; and stew them tender in the soup. If approved, you 
may add an anchovy, and a spoonful of catsup. 



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175 



Spinach Soup 

Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions, 
a head of celery, two carrots, a little thyme and parsley. .Put 
all into a stewpot, with a bit of butter the size of a walnut, 
and a pint of broth, or the water in which meat has been boil- 
ed : stew till the vegetables are quite tender: work them 
through a coarse cloth or sieve with a spoon ; then with the 
pulp of the vegetables, and liquor, a quart of fresh water, pep- 
per and salt, boil all together. Have ready some suet dump- 
lings, the size 'of a walnut, and before you put the soup into 
the tureen, put them into it. The suet must not be shred 
too fine : and take care that it is perfectly fresh. 

Scotch Leek Soup 

Put the boiling of a leg of mutton into a stewpot, with a 
quantity of chopped leeks, and pepper and salt ; simmer them 
an hour, then mix some oat meal with a little cold water quite 
smooth, pour it into the soup, and setting it on a slow part of 
the fire, let it simmer gently ; but take care that it does not 
burn to the bottom. 

Hare Soup 

Take an old hare that is good for nothing else than soup, 
cut in pieces, and put it with a pound and a half of lean beef, 
two or three shank bones of mutton well cleaned, a slice of 
lean bacon or ham ; an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs : 
pour on it two quarts of boiling water : cover the jar, in which 
you put these, with bladder and paper, and set it in a kettle 
of water ; simmer till the hare is stewed to pieces, strain off 
the liquor, and give it one boil, with an anchovy cut in pieces, 
and add a spoonful of soy, and a little cayenne and salt. A 
few fine forcemeat balls, fried of a good brown should be 
served in a tureen. 

Scotch Mutton Broth 

Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour : cut off the 
scrag, and put into a stewpot with two quarts of water, as 
soon as it boils, skim it well and simmer it an hour and a half; 



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then take the best end of the mutton, cut it into pieces, two 

bones in each, and put as many as you think proper, having 

cut off some of the fat. Skim it the moment the fresh meat 

boils up. and every quarter of an hour. Have readv four or 

five carrots, the same of turnips, and three onions, all cut, but 

not small, and put in time enough to be quite tender; two 

large spoonfuls of Scotch barley, first wetted with cold water. 

The meat should stew three hours. Salt to taste, and serve 

all together. Twenty minutes before serving, put in some 

chopped parsley. 

It is an excellent winter dish. 

Soups under the articles of their respective Meats. 

Ox Rump Soup 

Two or three rumps of beef, will make it stronger than a 
much larger proportion of meat without ; and form a very 
nourishing soup. 

Make it like gravy soup, and give it what flavor or thick- 
ening you like. 

Soup a la Sap 

Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, one pound of beef 
sliced thin, one pint of grey peas, one onion, and three ounces 
of rice, in six pints of water to five : strain it through a colan- 
der, then pulp the peas to it, and turn it into a saucepan again 
with two heads of celery sliced : stew it tender, adding pepper 
and salt ; and when you serve, fried bread. 

Crawfish or Prawn Soup 

Boil six whitings, and a large eel : or the latter, and half 
a thornback, being well cleaned, with as much water as wiU 
cover them. Skim clean, and put in whole pepper, mace, 
giDgrer. parsley, an onion, a little thyme, and three cloves. 
Boil to a mash. Pick fifty crawfish, or a hundred prawns, 
pound the shells and a little roll, after having boiled them 
with a little water, vinegar, salt and herbs. Pour this liquor 
over the shells in a sieve, then pour the other soup, clear from 
the sediment ; chop a lobster, and add to it, with a quart of 
good beef gravv. Add the tails of the crawfish or the prawns, 
and some flour and butter ; and season as necessary. 



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177 



Portable Soup, a Very Useful Thing 

Boil one or two knuckles of veal, one or two shins of 
beef, and a pound or more of fine juicy beef, in as much water 
only as will cover them. When the bones are cracked, out of 
which take the marrow, put any sort of spice you like, and 
three large onions. When the meat is done to rags, strain it 
off, and put it in a very cold place. When cold, take off the 
cake of fat (which will make crust for servant's pies, ) put the 
soup in a double-bottom tin saucepan, set it on a pretty quick 
fire, but do not let it burn. It must boil fast, and uncovered, 
and be stirred constantly for eight hours. Put into a pan, 
and let it stand in a cold place a day : then pour into a round 
soup china dish, and set the dish into a stewpan of boiling 
water on a stove, and let it boil, and be occasionally stirred, 
till the soup becomes thick and ropy; then it is enough. 
Pour it into the little round part of the bottom of cups or 
basins to form cakes ; and when cold, turn them out on flan- 
nel to dry, and wrap them in it. Keep them in tin canisters. 
When to be used, melt in boiling water : add if you wish the 
flavor of herbs or anything else, boil it first, and having strain- 
ed the water, melt the soup in it. 

This is very convenient for a basin of soup or gravy in 
the country, or at sea, where fresh meat is not always at 
hand. 

Clear Gravy 

Slice beef thin : broil a part of it, over a very clear quick 
fire, just enough to give color to the gravy, but not to dress 
it ; put that, and the raw into a very nicely tinned stewpan, 
with two onions, a clove, or two Jamaica and black peppers, 
and a bunch of sweet herbs : cover it with hot water ; give it 
one boil, and skim it well two or three times : then cover it 
with hot water : give it one boil, and skim it well two or three 
times ; then cover it and simmer till quite strong. 

To Draw Gravy that Will Keep a Week 

Cut thin lean beef : put it in a frying-pan without any 
butter; set it on a fire covered, but take care it does not 

(12) 



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burn : let it stay till all the gravy that comes out of the meat 
be dried up into it again ; then put as much water as will cov- 
er the meat, and let that stew away. Then put to the meat 
a small quantity of water, herbs, onions, spice, a bit of lean 
ham ; simmer till it is rich, then keep in a cool place Re- 
move the fat only when going to be used. 

To Mash Parsnips 

Boil tender ; scrape them ; then mash into a stewpan, 
with a little cream, a good piece of butter, pepper, and salt. 

To Keep Green Peas 

Shell, and put them in a kettle of water when it boils ; 
give them two or three warms only, and pour them into a 
colander. When the water drains off, turn them on a dresser 
covered with a cloth ; pour them on another cloth to dry per- 
fectly ; then bottle them in wide-mouth bottles, leaving only 
room to pour clarified mutton suet upon them an inch thick, 
and for the cork ; rosin it down, and keep in a cellar, or in the 
earth, as ordered for gooseberries. Boil them, with a bit of 
butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a bit of mint, till tender, when 
to be used. 

Another Way, as Practised in the Emperor of Russia's Kitchen 

Shell, scald, and dry as above. Put them on tins or 
earthen dishes in a cool oven to harden, once or twice. Keep 
them in paper bags hung in the kitchen. When to be used, 
let them lie an hour in water ; then set them on with cold 
water, and a bit of butter, and boil till ready. Put a sprig of 
dried mint to boil with them. 

To Preserve French Beans, to eat in the Winter 

Pick them young, and throw into a little wooden keg a 
layer three inches deep ; then sprinkle with salt ; put another 
layer of beans, and do the same as high as you think proper, 
alternately with salt ; but do not be too liberal with the latter; 
lay a plate, or cover of the wood that will go into the keg, and 
put on it a heavy stone. A pickle will rise from the beans 



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179 



and salt. If too salt, the soaking arid boiling will not be 
sufficient to make them pleasant to the taste. When to be 
eaten, cut, soak, and boil as when fresh. 

Potatoes should be kept in the earth that adheres to 
them when dug ; and preserved from frost. 

Parsnips, carrots, and turnips the same, and put in layers 
of dry sand. 

Small close cabbages laid on a stone floor before the 
frost sets in will blanch and be very fine, after many weeks' 
keeping. 

To Boil Vegetables Green 

Be sure the water boils when you put them in ; when in ? 
make them boil very fast. Do not cover, but watch them ; 
and if the water has not slackened, you may be assured they 
are done when they are beginning to sink ; take them out 
immediately, or the color will change. 

Small Dishes for Supper, etc. 

Boil eggs hard, cut them in half, take out the yolks, set 
the whites on a dish, and fill with the following ingredients ; 
or put a saucer upside down on a plate, and place them in 
quarters around ; in either case as a salmagundi. Chopped 
veal, yolk of egg, beet-root, anchovy, apple, onion, ham and 
parsley. A very small bit of the white of the egg must be 
cut off, to make it stand on the dish as a cup. 

Stewed Old Peas 

Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers, other- 
wise only half an hour ; put them with water enough just to 
cover them, and a good bit of butter, or a piece of beef or 
pork. Stew in the most gentle way till the peas are soft, and 
the meat is tender. If not salt meat, add salt, and a little 
pepper, and serve around the meat. 

French Salad 

Cut three anchovies, a shallot, and some parsley small ; 
put them in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one of 



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oil, a little mustard, and salt; When well mixed, add by 
degrees some cold roast or boiled meat, in the very thinnest 
slices ; put in a few at a time, they being small ; not exceeding 
two or three inches long ; shake them in the seasoning, and 
then put more ; cover the bowl close ; and let the salad be 
prepared three hours before eaten. 

Garnish with parsley, and a few slices of the fat. 

Lobster Salad 

Make a small salad and put some of the red part of the 
lobster to it, cut, which forms a pretty contrast to the white 
and green of vegetables. 

Do not put too much oil, as shell fish take off the acidity 
of vinegar. 

Serve in a dish, not bowl. 

To Boil Potatoes 

Set them on the fire, unpared, in cold water ; let them 
half boil, then throw some salt in, and a pint of cold water, 
and let them boil again till near done. Pour off the water, 
and put a clean cloth over them, and then the saucepan cover, 
and set them by the fire to steam till ready. Many use 
steamers. 

To Broil Potatoes 

Parboil, then slice and boil them ; or parboil, and set 
them whole on the gridiron over a very slow fire ; and when 
thoroughly done, send up with their skins on. The latter is 
done in many Irish families. 

To Roast Potatoes 

Half boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them of a beau- 
tiful brown. 

To Fry Potatoes 

Slice raw potatoes after the skin is removed, and fry 
either m butter or thin batter. 



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181 



To Mash Potatoes 

Boil, peel, and break to paste the potatoes ; then, to two 
pounds, add a quarter of a pint of milk, and a little salt, with 
two or three ounces of butter, and stir all well over the fire. 
Serve thus, or brown the top, when placed on the dish in a 
form, with salamander ; or in scallops. 

Stewed Celery 

Wash, and strip off the outer leaves of six heads; halve, or 
leave them whole according to their size; cut them in four- 
inch lengths. Put them in a stewpan with a cup of broth, or 
weak white gravy. Stew till tender; then add two spoonfuls 
of cream, and a little flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, 
salt, and nutmeg, and simmer together. 

Cauliflower in White Sauce 

Half boil, then cut into handsome pieces, and lay into a 
stewpan, with a little broth, a bit of mace, a little salt, and a 
dust of white pepper. Simmer half an hour; then put a little 
cream, butter and flour; shake and simmer a few minutes, and 
serve. 

Spinach 

Should be very carefully picked and washed; then boil, 
and squeeze it dry. Put it in a pan with a bit of butter, salt, 
and pepper; stew it, and serve. 

French Way 

Clean as before; then put it into a stewpan without water, 
a spoonful of gravy, and a lump of butter, salt, and pepper, 
and simmer till ready. If too moist, squeeze the gravy from it. 

Stewed Red Cabbage 

Slice a small, or half a large red cabbage; wash it, and 
put into a saucepan, the pepper and salt, no water but what 
hangs about the former, and a piece of butter. Stew till 
quite tender; then when going to serve, put to it half a cup of 
vinegar, and stir it over the fire. 

Serve for cold meat, or with sausage on it. 



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Stewed Mushrooms 

Choose large buttons, or small flaps, before the fringe be 
turned black: pick each one separately, and observe there is 
not a bad one; rub the former with a flannel and salt, skin the 
latter, and take out the fringe. Throw them into a stewpan, 
with a little salt, apiece of butter, and a few peppers; set them 
on a slack part of the Are, and shake them sometime. When 
tender, add two large spoonfuls of cream, and a dust of flour. 

Stewed Sorrel for Fricandeau, and Roast Meat 

Wash the sorrel , and put it in a silver vessel, or stone jar, 
and no more water than hangs to the leaves. Simmer in the 
lowest way you can; and when done enough, put a bit of 
butter, and beat it well. 

Stewed Carrots 

Half boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into a stew- 
pan. Put to them half a teacup of any weak broth, some pep- 
per, and salt, and half a teacup of cream; simmer to be very 
tender, but not broke. Before serving, rub the least flour 
with a bit of butter, and warm up with it. If approved, chop- 
ped parsley may be added ten minutes before served. 

To Dry Mushrooms 

Wipe them clean and of the large take out the brown and 
peel off the skin. Lay them on paper to dry in a cool oven, 
arid keep them in paper bags in a dry place. When used sim- 
mer them in the gravv. and they will swell to near their form- 
er size. To simmer them in their own liquor till it dry up 
into them, shaking the pan, then drying on tin plates, is a 
good way, with spice or not, as above, before made into pow- 
der. 

Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place, or in paper. 

Sugar Vinegar 

To every gallon of water, put two pounds of the very 
coarsest sugar; boil and skim thoroughly : then put one quart 
of cold water to every gallon of hot. When cool, put into it a 



The Southern Cookbook 



toast spread with yeast. Stir it nine days; then barrel, and 
set it in a place where the sun will lie on it, with a bit of slate 
on the bunghole. 

When sufficiently sour, it may be bottled; or may be used 
from the cask, with a wooden spigot and faucet. 

Gooseberry Vinegar 

Boil spring water; and when cold, put to every three 
quarts a quart of bruised ripe gooseberries in a large tub. 
Let them remain sixty hours, stirring often; then strain 
through a hair bag, and to each gallon of liquor add a pound 
of the coarsest sugar. Put it into a barrel and a toast and 
yeast, cover the bunghole with a bit of slate, etc., as above. 
The greater quantity of sugar and fruit, the stronger the vine- 
gar. 

Wine Vinegar 

After making raisin wine, when the fruit has been strain- 
ed, lay it on a heap to heat; then to every hundred weight put 
fifteen gallons of water. Set the cask, and put the yeast, etc; 
as above. 

As vinegar is so necessary an article in a family, and one 
on which so great a profit is made, a barrel or two may always 
be kept preparing, according to what suited. If the raisins of 
wine were ready, that kind might be made; if a great plenty 
of gooseberries made them cheap, that sort; or if neither, 
then the sugar vinegar, so that the cask may not be left empty, 
and grow musty. 

Kitchen Pepper 

Mix in the finest powder, one ounce of ginger, of cinna- 
mon, black pepper, nutmeg, and Jamaica pepper, half an 
ounce of each; ten cloves, and six ounces of salt. Keep it in a 
bottle. It is an agreeable addition to any brown sauces or 
soups. 

Spice in powder, kept in small bottles, close stopped, goes 
much further then when used whole. It must be dried before 



184 



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pounded; and should be done in quantities that may be wanted 
in three or four months. Nutmeg need not be done; but the 
others should be kept in separate bottles, with a little label on 
each. 

Browning, to Color and Flavor made Dishes 

Beat to powder four ounces of double refined sugar; put 
it into a very nice iron frying-pan, with one ounce of fine fresh 
butter; mix it well over a clear fire, and when it begins to 
froth, hold it up higher. When of very fine dark brown, pour 
in a small quantity of a pint of port wine, and the whole by 
very small degrees, stirring all the time. Put to the above 
half an ounce of Jamaica, and the same of black pepper, six 
cloves of shallots peeled, three blades of mace bruised, three 
spoonfuls of mushroom, and the same of walnut catsup, some 
salt, and the finely pared rind of a lemon. Boil gently fifteen 
minutes; pour into a basin till cold; take off the scum, bottle 
for use. 

To make Sprats Taste like Anchovies 

Salt them well, and let the salt drain from them. In 
twenty-four hours wipe them dry, but do not wash them. Mix 
four ounces of common salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a quarter 
of a ounce of sal-prunel, and half a teaspoonful of cochineal, all 
in the finest powder. Sprinkle it among three quarts of the 
fish, and pack them in two stone jars. Keep in a cool place, 
fastened down with a bladder. 

These are pleasant on bread and butter; but have the best 
for sauce. 

To keep Anchovies when the Liquor Dries 

Pour on them beef brine 

To Keep Capers 

Add fresh vinegar, that has been scalded, and become 
cold, and tie them close, to keep out the air. 



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185 



To Make Mustard 

* 

Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by degrees, with 
boiling water, to a proper thickness, rubbing" it perfectly 
smooth; add a little salt, and keep it in a small jar, close cover- 
ed; and put only as much into the glass as will be used soon; 
which should be whipped daily around the edges. 

Another Way for Immediate Use 

Mix the mustard with new milk by degrees, to be quite 
smooth and add a little raw cream. It is much softer this way, 
is not bitter and will keep well. 

The patent mustard is by many preferred, and it is per- 
haps as cheap, being always ready. 

A teaspoonful of sugar to half a pint of mustard is a great 
improvement, and softens it. 



PICKLES 



India 

Lay a pound of white ginger in water one night: then 
scrape, and lay it in salt in a pan till the other ingredients 
shall be ready. 

Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlic three days; then 
put it in the sun to dry. Salt and dry long pepper in the 
same way. 

Quarter small white cabbages; salt three days: squeeze 
and set them in the sun to dry. 

Cauliflowers cut in their branches: take off the green 
from the radishes: cut celery in three inch lengths: ditto 
French beans whole, likewise the shoots of alder, which will 
look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers, choose of the least 
seedy sort; cut them in slices, or quarters, if not too large. 
All must be salted, drained, and dried in the sun, except the 
latter; over which you must pour boiling vinegar, and, in 
twelve hours, drain them, but no salt must be used. 

Put the spice, garlic, a quarter of a pound of mustard 
seed, and as much vinegar as you think enough for the quant, 
ity you are to pickle, into a large stone jar, and one ounce of 
turmeric to be ready against the vegetables shall be dried. 
When they are ready, observe the following directions: put 
some of them into a two-quart stone jar, and pour over them 
one quart of boiling vinegar: next day take out those vegetables, 
and when drained, put them into a large stock jar, and boiling 
the vinegar, pour it over some more of the vegetables: let them 
lay a night, and do as above. Thus proceed till you have 
cleaned each set from the dust which must inevitably fall on 
them by being so long in doing: then, to every gallon of vine- 
gar, put two ounces of flour of mustard, mixing by degrees, 
with a little of it boiling hot. The whole of the vinegar should 
have been previously scalded, but left to be cool before put to 
the spice. Stop the jar tight. 




The Southern Cookbook 



i8 7 



The pickle will not be ready for a year; but you may make 
a small jar for eating in a fortnight, by only giving them one 
scald in water, after salting and drying as above, but without 
the preparative vinegar, then pour the vinegar that has the 
spice and garlic, boiling hot, over. If at any time it be found 
that the vegetables have not swelled properly, boiling the 
pickle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump them. 



Cut the large young shoots of alder, which put out in the 
middle of May, (the middle stalks are most tender) peel off the 
outward peel, or skin, and lay them in salt and water, very 
strong, one night. Dry them piece by piece in a cloth. Have 
in readiness a pickle thus made and boiled: to a quart of vine- 
gar put an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of sliced ginger, a 
little mace and pimento, and pour boiling on the alder shoots, 
in a stone jar: stop close, and set by the fire two hours, turn- 
ing the jar often, to keep scalding hot. If not green when cold, 
strain off the liquor, and boil boiling hot again; keeping it as 
hot as before. Or, if you intend to make Indian pickle, the 
above shoots are a great improvement to it: in which case you 
need only pour boiling vinegar and mustard seed on them; and 
keep them till your jar of pickles shall be ready to receive 
them. 



This is particular sort for this purpose which the gardiners 
know. Cut a square small piece out of one side, and through 
that takeout the seeds, and mix with them mustard seeds and 
shred garlic; stuff the melons as full as the space will allow, 
and replace the square piece. Bind it up with a small new 
packthread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, to allow for 
wasting, with pepper, salt, ginger, and pour boiling hot over 
the mangoes four successive days; the last, put flour of mus- 
tard, and scraped horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils 
up. Stop close. Observe that there is plenty of vinegar. All 
pickles are spoiled if not well covered. Mangoes should be 
done soon after they are gathered. 



English Bamboo, to Pickle 



Melon Mangoes 



The Southern Cookbook 



Pickled Onions 

In the month of September, choose the small white round 
onions; take off the brown skin; have ready a very nice tin 
stewpan of boiling water; throw in as many onions as will 
cover the top. As soon as they look clear on the outside, 
take them up as quick as possible, with a slice, and lay them 
on a clean cloth, cover them close with another and scald some 
more, and so on. Let them lay to be cold, then put them in a 
jar, or glass wide-mouth bottle, and pour over them the best 
white vinegar, just hot, but not boiling. When cold, cover them. 

Cucumbers and Onions Sliced 

Cut them in slices, and sprinkle salt over them : next day 
drain them five or six hours, then, put them in a jar, and pour 
boiling vinegar over them, keeping in a warm place. The 
slices should be thick. Repeat the boiling vinegar, and stop 
instantly ; and so on till green. 

Pickled Sliced Cucumbers. Another Way 

Slice large unpared cucumbers, an inch thick ; slice 
onions, and put both into a broad pan : stew a good deal of 
salt among them. In twenty-four hours drain them, and lay 
them on a cloth to dry. Put them in small stone jars and 
pour in the strongest plain vinegar, boiling hot ; stop the jars 
close. Next day boil it again, and pour over, and thus thrice: 
the last time add whole white peppers, and a little ginger. 
Keep close covered. 

Young Cucumbers 

Choose nice young gherkins ; spread them on dishes : 
salt them, and let them lay a week : drain them, and, putting 
them in a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them. Set them 
near the fire covered with plenty of vine leaves. If they do 
not become a tolerably good green, pour the vinegar into 
another jar, set it over the hot hearth, and when it boils, pour 
it over them again, covering with fresh leaves ; and thus do 
until they are of as good a color as you wish ; but as it is now 
known, that the very fine green pickles are made so by using 



The Southern Cookbook 



brass or bell-metal vessels, which, when vinegar is put into 
them, becomes highly poisonous, few people like to eat them. 

Note — Acids dissolve the lead in the tinning of sauce- 
pans. Pickles should never be kept in glazed jars, but in stone 
or glass ; and vinegar, or any acids, should be boiled, by put- 
ting them in jars of stone, over a hot hearth, or in a kettle of 
waterstone, over a hot hearth, or in a kettle of water. 

To Pickle Walnuts 

When they will bear a pin to go into them, put on them 
a brine of salt and water boiled, and strong enough to bear an 
egg, being quite cold first. It must be well skimmed while 
boiling. Let them soak twelve days, then drain them, and 
pour over them in the jar a pickle of the best white wine vin- 
egar, with a good quantity of pimento, pepper, ginger, mace, 
cloves, mustard seed and horseradish all boiled together, but 
cold. To every hundred walnuts, put six spoonfuls of mus- 
tard seed, and two or three heads of garlic, or shallots ; but 
the latter is least strong. 

Thus done, they will be good several years, if kept close 
covered. The air will soften them. They will not be fit to 
eat under six months. 

The pickle will serve as good as catsup, when the walnuts 
are used. 

Nasturtiums for Capers 

Keep them a few days after they are gathered ; then pour 
boiling vinegar over them, and when cold, cover. 

They will not be fit to eat for some months ; but are then 
finely flavored, and by many preferred to capers. 

An Excellent way to Pickle Mushrooms to Preserve the Flavor 

Buttons must be rubbed with a bit of flannel and salt ; 
and from the larger, take out the red inside, for when they are 
black they wont do, being too old. Throw a little salt over, 
and put them in a stewpan, with some mace and pepper. As 
the liquor comes out, shake them well and keep them over a 



190 



The Southern Cookbook ' 



gentle fire till all of it be dried into them again ; then put as 
much vinegar into the pan as will cover them ; give it one 
warm, and turn all into a glass or stone jar. They will - keep 
two years, and are delicious. 

Red Cabbage 

Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle each layer with salt ; 
let it drain two days, then put into a jar, and pour boiling vin- 
egar enough to cover, and put a few slices of red beet root. 
Observe to choose the purple red cabbage. Those who like 
the flavor of spice, will boil it with the vinegar. Cauliflower, 
cut in branches, and thrown in after being salted, will look a 
beautiful red. 



MISCELLANEOUS 



Stewed Onions 

Peel six large onions, fry them gently of a fine brown, 
but do not blacken ; then put them into a small stewpan, with 
a little weak gravy, pepper, and salt ; cover and stew two 
hours gently. They should be lightly floured at first. 

Roast Onions 

Should be done with all the skins on. They eat well 
alone, with salt only, and cold butter ; or with roast potatoes, 
or with beet roots. 

To Stew Green Peas 

Put a quart of peas, a lettuce, an onion, both sliced, a bit 
of butter, pepper, salt, and no more water than hangs around 
the lettuce from washing. Stew them two hours very gently. 
When to be served, beat up an egg, and stir into them, or a 
bit of flour and butter. 

Some think a teaspoonful of white powdered sugar is an 
improvement. Gravy may be added ; but there will be less 
flavor of the peas. Chop a bit of mint, and stew in them. 

To Stew Cucumbers 

Slice them thick, or halve, and divide them in two 
lengths : stew some salt and pepper, and slice onions ; add a 
little broth, or a bit of butter. Simmer very slowly ; and be- 
fore serving, if no butter was in before, put some, and a little 
flour, unless it wants richness. 

Another Way 

Slice the onions, and cut the cucumbers large : flour and 
fry them in some butter : then put on some good broth or 
gravy, and stew till enough. Skim off the fat. 



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Orange Butter 

Boil six eggs hard : beat the yolks in the mortar with fine 
sugar, orange-flower water, four ounces of butter, and two 
ounces of almonds beaten to a paste. When all is mixed, rub 
it through a colander on a dish. 

Roll butter in different forms ; either like a pine, having 
made it in the shape of a cone, and marking it with a tea- 
spoon ; or rolling in a crimping form, or working it through a 
colander. Serve with scraped beef or anchovies, garnished 
with a wreath of curled parsley. 

Rusks buttered, and anchovies split and rolled. 

Grated hung beef on rusks buttered. 

Grated cheese on the same, or in plate. 

Radishes placed around a plate, and butter in the middle. 

French beans boiled of a beautiful green, and served with 
cream sauce. 

Jerusalem artichokes or cauliflowers in the same. 

Broccoli boiled, served on toast, to eat with poached 
eggs. 

Stewed vegetables. 

Eggs poached on toast or spinach. 

Eggs buttered on toast. 

Custards in cups or glasses, with toast in long sippets. 

Cold meat in slices on a dish, or as sandwiches. 

Ham. Tongue. Collared things. Hunter's beef. 

Oysters cold, scalloped, stewed or pickled. 

Potted meat, birds, fish, or cheese 

Pickled or baked fish. 

Common cake. Baked or stewed fruits. 

Pies of meat, fowl, or fruit. 

Potatoes roasted, boiled, scalloped, mashed, etc. 

Collared beef, veal, or pig's head. 

Lobsters. Crabs. Prawns. 

Sweetbreads. Small birds. 



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193 



Forcemeat for Patties, Balls or Stuffing 

Crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, fat bacon, (if it has 
been dressed it is better) suet, a bit of fresh butter, a little 
anchovy liquor, an egg, a bit of onion, a very little knotted 
marjoram, a little pepper, salt and nutmeg. 

This is a much admired mixture : but, according to the 
purpose it is for, any addition may be made to the flavor ; cold 
ham or gammon, different herbs, anchovies, oysters, cayenne. 

Note. To the above should have been added cold veal 
or chicken, which is a great improvement. Some like lemon, 
and lemon-thyme is a good substitute. Tarragon gives a 
French flavor, but a very small proportion is sufficient. 

Fried Patties 

Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters ; mix with a few 
crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a very small bit 
of lemon-peel ; add the liquor of the oysters : warm all in a 
toaster, but do not boil. Let it go cold. Have ready a good 
puff paste, roll thin, and cut it in round or square bits. Put 
some of the above between two of them , twist the edges to 
keep in the gravy, and fry them of a fine brown. 

This is a very good thing, and baked, is a fashionable 

dish. 

Oyster Patties 

Put a fine puff paste into small pattypans, and a bit of 
bread in each ; and against they are baked, have ready the 
following to fill with, taking out the bread. Take off the 
beards of the oysters ; cut the other parts in small bits ; put 
them in a small toaster, with a grate of nutmeg, the least 
white pepper, and salt, a morsel of lemon-peel, cut so small 
that you can scarcely see it, a little cream, and a little of the 
oyster liquor. Simmer for a few minutes, before you fill. 

Lobster Patties 

Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and the 
smallest bit of butter. 

Beef and veal patties, as likewise turkey and chicken, are 
under the several articles in the foregoing pages. 

(13) 



194 



The Southern Cookbook 



Sweet Patties 

Chop the meat of a boiled calf's foot, of which you 
use the liquor for jelly, two apples, one ounce of orange and 
lemon-peel candied, and some fresh peel and juice : mix with 
them half a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of 
brandy, and four ounces of currants washed and dried. 

Bake in small pattypans. 

Patties Resembling Mincepies 

Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange and 
lemon-peel candied, and fresh currants, a little wine, two or 
three cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar. Bake in puff 
paste as before. 

Mincepie 

Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, weigh two 
pounds ; four pounds of suet picked and chopped ; then add 
six pounds of currants, nicely cleaned and perfectly dry 
three pounds of chopped apples, the peel and juice of two 
lemons, a pint of sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce 
of cloves, the same of mace, and pimento, in finest powder ; 
press the whole into a deep pan when well mixed, and keep it 
covered in a dry cool place. 

Half the quantity is enough, and have lemon-peel ready, 
and put some of each in the pies when made. 

Mincemeat Pies, Without Meat 

Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and minced ; 
of fresh suet, and raisins stoned, each three pounds, likewise 
minced : to these add of mace and cinnamon a quarter of an 
ounce of each, and eight cloves in pounds of finest powdered 
sugar, three quarters of an ounce of salt, the rinds of four 
and juice of two lemons, half a pint of port wine, and the 
same of brandy. Mix well, and put into a deep pan. 

Have ready washed and dried four pounds of currants, 
and add as you make the pies, with candied fruit. 

-s 



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195 



Lemon Mincepies 

Squeeze a large lemon : boil the outside till tender enough 
to beat and mash : add to it three large apples chopped, four 
ounces of suet, half a pound of currants, and four ounces of 
sugar. Put the juice of the lemon and candied fruit, as for 
other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the pattypans as 
usual. 



OYSTERS 



Oyster*, to Stew 

Open them, and separate the liquor from them, then wash 
them from the grit : strain the liquor, and put with the oys- 
ters a bit of mace and lemon-pee], and a few white peppers. 
Simmer them very gently, and put some cream, and a little 
flour and butter. 

Serve with sippets 

Scalloped Oysters 

Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nutme s , 
and a bit of butter, in scallop shells or saucers, and bake them 
before the fire in a dutch oven. 

Oyster Patties, or Small Pies 

As you open the ovsters, separate them from the liquor, 
which strain : parboil them, after taking off the beards. Par- 
boil sweetbreads, and cutting them in slices, lay them and the 
ovsters in layers : season verv light!}' with salt, pepper, and 
mace. Then put half a tea cup of liquor, and the same of 
£'raw. Bake in a slow oven : and before vou serve, out a tea- 

O J 'IT 

cup of cream, a little more ovster liquor, and a cup of white 
gravy, all warmed, but not boiled. If for patties, the oysters 
should be cut in small dice, gentlv stewed, and seasoned as 
above, and put in a paste when ready for the table. 

To Pickle Oysters 

Wash four dozen of o\ >ters in their own liquor ; then 
strain, and in it simmer them till scalded enough; take them 
out and cover them. To the liquor put a few pepper-corns, a 
a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of salt, three of white wine, 
and four of vinegar : simmer fifteen minutes ; and, when cold, 
nour it on the ovsters, and keep them in a jar close covered. 



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197 



Fried Oysters, to Garnish Boiled Fish 

Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs ; season it a very 
little ; dip the oysters in it, and fry them a fine yellow brown. 
A little nutmeg should be put into the seasoning, and a few 
crumbs of bread into the flour. 

Another Way 

Open the number you intend to pickle; put them into 
a saucepan, with their own liquor, for ten minutes ; simmer 
them very gently ; then put them into a jar, one by one, that 
none of the grit may stick to them, and cover them, when 
cold, with the pickle thus made. Boil the liquor with a bit of 
mace, lemon peel, and black peppers : and to every hundred, 
put two spoonfuls of the best undistilled vinegar. 

They should be kept in small jars, and tied close with 
bladder, for the air will spoil them. 



198 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Abraham Lincoln Dinner, 1861. 



Soup 

Terrapin Brunoise 

Fish 

English Salmon a la Hollandaise 
Smelts fried, a l'Anglaise 

Relieves 

Tenderloin of Beef Sauce Perigord 

Turkey a la Richelieu 
Saddle of Venison with Currant Jelly 

Relishes 
French Mustard, Spanish Olives 

Horseradish, Assorted Pickles 
Sardines Apple Sauce Celery- 
Entrees 

Sweet Bread Larded, with Green Peas 



Venison Chops, Sauce Cherreiul 
Croquets of Chicken a la Royal 

Vol au Vent Financiere 

Saline of Partridges a la Chasseur 



Roasts 

English Capons Canvas Back Ducks 

Grouse Larded Quails Larded 

Chicken Salade Fried Oysters 

Pastry and Confectionery 

English Plum Pudding 
Charlottte Russeau Panneir 
Gelve vin de Champagne, garne d'Orange 
Blanc Mange a la Rose 

Maccaroons " w Fancy Kisses 

Biscuit Anglais an Gelee 

Gateau au Chocolate 
Cassette d'Amande Sugared Almonds 

Vanilla Ice Cream 



Dessert 

Almonds, Figs, Apples, Walnuts, Raisins, Dates, Filberts, 
Prunes Oranges 

Coffee 

No 1. 



The Southern Cookbook 



199 



MENU 

Little Neck Clams 



Celery Radishes Olives 

Cream of Lettuce 



Kennebec Salmon Cucumbers 
Potatoes 

Spring Chicken Fresh Aspargus 

Fruit Punch Salted Almonds Pecans 



Stewed Snapper 
Cammembert Brie Roquefort Cheese 



Ice Cream Water Ices 

Fancy Cakes Strawberries 

Cigars Coffee 



No 2. 



200 The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Blue Points 

Green Turtle Soup 

Kennebec Salmon, Sauce Holiandaise 

Pommes de Boer 
Sweetbreads French Peas 

Filet of Beef Mushroom Sauce 

Supreme Chicken 
Spinach Pommes de Duchesse 

Punch Oom Paul 

Terrapin 

Grouse Currant Jelly 

Virginia Ham 

Lettuce Salad 
Neufchatel Roquefort DeBrie 

Assorted Ices Fancy Cakes 

Coffee 

No 3. 



The Southern Cookbook 



201 



MENU 



Blue Points 



Bouillon 



Olives 



Salted Almonds 



Celery 



Lobster Cutlets 



Filet of Beef, Mushroom Sauce 



Chicken Supreme 



French Peas 



Duchesse Potatoes 



Ice Cream 



Spinach 
Roman Punch 

Terrapin 



Tomato and Lettuce Salad 
Virginia Ham 
Wafers and Cheese 



Fancy Cakes 



Coffee 



No. 4. 



202 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Green Turtle Soup 



Boiled Salmon Lobster Sauce 



Sweetbread Croquettes with Peas 



No. 5. 



Spring Chicken 
Potatoes Baked Tomatoes 



Roman Punch 



Cheese and Crackers 



Ice Cream and Fancy Cakes 
Coffee 



The Southern Cookbook 



203 



MENU 

Game on Toast Dressed Lettuce 

Blue Points 



Celery Salted Almonds Olives 



Clear Green Turtle 



Boiled Salmon Sauce Hollandaise 



Filet de Boeuf, Mushroom Sauce 
Potatoes Duchesse Lima Beans 

Spinach and Bacon 



Roman Punch 



Reed Birds on Toast 



Virginia Ham 



Lettuce Salad, French Dressing- 



Ices Fancy Cakes 

Almonds Bon-Bons 

Coffee 

No. 6. 



204 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Blue Points 

Radishes Olives 
Potage a la Reine 

Lobster Cutlets Sauce Cardinal 

Supreme of Spring Chickens T<rouffles 

Filet of Beef a la Jardiniere 
New Potatoes Asparagus 

Roman Punch 

Sweetbread Patties 

Snipe with Cress Lettuce Salad 

Cheese and Crackers 

Ices and Fancy Cakes 
Coffee 



No. 7. 



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205 



MENU 

Blue Points on Half Shell 



Soup 

Green Turtle, French Style 
Relishes 

Radishes Fresh Tomatoes 



Small Oyster Patties 

Boiled Delaware Shad, Butter Gravy 
Duchesse Potatoes 



Filet of Beef Larded with Mushrooms 
Parisian Potatoes 



Chichen Cutlets, Garnished with Fine Vegetables 
French Peas French String Beans 

Potato Croquettes Asparagus 

Stewed Terrapin, Dooner Style 
Roman Punch 

Red-Head Duck with Current Jelly 

English Snipe, with Water Cresses 
Celery Lettuce 
Chicken Salad Lobster Salad 

Brie Rouqefort American Cheese 

Assorted Fruit Charlotte Russe Ice Cream 
Strawberries French Coffee 



Cigars French Brandy Cigarettes 

No. 8. 



206 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Blue Points 
Soup 

Celery Olives Salted Almonds 

Bisque of Asparagus 



Roast Turkey 
Potatoes Peas 



Cranberry Jelly Roman Punch 



Tomato Salad 
Cheese and Crackers 



Mince Pie 
Ice Cream Fancy Cakes 

Rasp Rolls 

Coffee 



No. 9. 



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207 



MENU 

Little Neck Clams 

Bisque of Asparagus 
Baked Shad Sauce Hollandaise 

Chicken Supreme New Potatoes 
Asparagus Tips Spinach and Bacon 

Roman Punch 

Lettuce and Virginia Ham 
Rasped Rolls Crackers Cheese 

Olives Salted Almonds 

Vanilla Baskets and Strawberries 
Fancy Cakes 

Coffee 



No. 10 



208 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Oysters, Lynnhavens 

Celery Olives 
Puree of Crab 

Planked Shad 
New Potatoes Cucumbers 

Hot House Spring Chicken 
Fresh Mushrooms 
Lobster Cutlet Broiled Oysters 

Shoe and Leather Exchange Punch Salted Almonds 

Terrapin a la Wiener 
Salad American French Dressing 

Montrose Pudding 
Fancy Cakes Ices Frozen Fruits 

Glace Fruits Strawberries 

Coffee 



No. 12. 



\ - 

The Southern Cookbook 209 



MENU 

Little Neck Clams 



Cotelettes de Homard 
Salade de Crab 



Poulets de Printemps 

Pommes Nouvelles 

Asperges en Branche 



Fricessee de Terrapine 

Pommes Saratoga 

Croquettes de Volaille 



Petits Pois 
Salade de Pommes deTerre 
Cornichons Olives Tomatoes Laitue 



Glaces Variees Gateaux Assortis 

Fruit Glaces 
Framboises a la Creme 

Fruits Cafe 



No. 13. 



(14) 



210 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Little Neck Clams 

Consomme Pate D'ltalie 

Boiled Kennebec Salmon Sauce Hollandaise 

Cucumbers Parisienne Potatoes 

Sweetbread, with Peas 
Roast Fillet of Beef 
Sauce Italienne 
Spinach Pommes Duchess 

Asparagus 

Roman Punch 

Terrapin, Philadelphia Style 

Plover au Cresson 

Lettuce and Tomato Salad ' 
Mayonnaise 
Roquefort Fromage de Brie 

Individual Frozen Fruits 
Fancy Cakes 

Olives Bon-Bons Salted Almonds 

Coffee 

No. 14. 



The Southern Cookbook 



211 



MENU 

Absecom Oysters on Shell Little Neck Clams 



Soup 

Green Turtle Bisque of Pea 



Pretania 

Olives Sliced Tomatoes Cucumbers 



Boiled Salmon, Sauce Tonti 

Baked Sheepshead, Hollandaise Sauce 



Releves 

Roast Ribs of Beef 

Roast Ham, Champagne Sauce 
Broiled Chicken, Mushroom Sauce 

Roast Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce 



Vegetables 

New Potatoes Green Peas Green Corn 
String Beans Buttered Beets Stewed Tomatoes 



Pastry- 
Cherry Pie Cream Pie Charlotte Russe 
Boiled Fruit Pudding, Wine Dressing 



Dessert 

Peach Ice Cream Roman Punch 

Champagne Jelly Coffee Jelly 

Peaches Bananas Apricots Plums Cherries 
Nuts Raisins Assorted Cakes 



English and American Cheese Tea and Coffee 

Apollinaris Water Imported Ginger Ale 

* 

No. 15. 



212 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Little Neck Clams 

Olives Salted Almonds 

Bouillon 

Lobster a la Newburg 

Filet of Beef, Mushroom Sauce 
Roast Chicken 
New Peas Duchesse Potatoes 

Maraschino Punch 

Roasted Squab 
Parisienne Potatoes 
Tomato Salad 

Wafers Cheese 

Bomb Glace * Fancy Cakes 

Bon-Bons 

Coffee 



The Southern Cookbook 



213 



MENU 

Little Neck Clams 

Olives Celery 
Consomme 

Crab Croquettes 

Roast Squab 
New Peas Potatoes 

Roman Punch 

Broiled Oysters 

Chicken Salad 
Cheese Balls Crackers 

Ice Cream Fancy Cakes 

Coffee 



No. 17. 



2 14 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU • 

Oysters on Half Shell 



Olives Celery 
Green Turtle 
Broiled Kennebec Salmon Lobster Sauce 

Pommes Hollandaise 



Tenderloin of Beef Piemontaise 
French Peas 



Roman Punch 



Roasted Duckling, Stuffed 
Apple Sauce 



Lettuce 



Ices 
Demi Tasse 



Cheese 



No. 18. 



The Southern Cookbook 21 



MENU 

Cherrystone Clams 



Celery Olives 
Clear Green Turtle 



Lobster Cutlets and Peas 



Filet de Boeuf and Fresh Asparagus 
New Potatoes 



Good Fellow Punch 



Salted Almonds and Pecans 
Stewed Snapper a la Wiener 
Lettuce and Tomato Salad 



Roquefort Crackers 
Cammembert 



Ice Creams Water Ices 

Variety of Cakes Chocolate Meringues 

Bon-Bons Strawberries Coffee 

Apollinaris Cigars 



No. 19. 



2l6 



The Souther 71 Cookbook 



MENU 

Blue Points 

Consomme 
Celery 

Lobster Cutlets, Cucumber Sauce 



Filet of Beef 
Peas Potatoes 



Roman Punch 



Scotch-Irish Pioneer Porridge 
Roast Quail on Toast 

Salad Crackers and Cheese 



Ices 

Coffee Cigars and Cigarettes 



No. 20. 




The Southern Cookbook 



2*17 



MENU 

Lynn Haven Oysters 



Celery Olives 
Lobster Cutlets Petits Pois 



Filet 
Fresh Mushrooms 
Bermuda Potatoes Sweet Potatoes 



Punch 

Almonds Pecans 



Terrapin 

Asparagus Salad French Salad 

Ice Cream Fancy Cakes 



Glaces Coffee 
Apolliriaris 



No. 21 



2lS 



The Southern Cookbook 



MENU 

Raw Oysters 



Celery Olives 
Bisque of Tomato Soup 



Broiled Blue Fish, Hollandaise 
Roast Philadelphia Capon 
Creamed Potatoes Lima Beans 



Stuffed Tomatoes 
Broiled Oysters on Toast 



Crackers Cheese 



Ice Cream Fine Cakes 



Cigars Coffee 



No. 22. 



GENERAL RULES FOR TABLE SETTING 



1 The room must be in order, dean, free from dust, and. 
well aired. Temperature about 68° F. 

2 Linen should be immaculate and china and glass 
glistening. 

3 Place silence cloth (this should be of some soft, heavy 
material, felting, canton flannel, or a clean cotton blanket). 

Uses : deadens sound, protects top of table, improves 
appearance of cloth. 

4 Place table cloth with center fold exactly in the center 
of the table and the corners equally distant from the floor. 

All folds in the cloth should be straight with the edge cf 
the table. 

5 If tray cloth and carving cloth are used, place tray 
cloth in front of hostess ; carving cloth in front of host ; place 
both parallel with edge of table. 

6 On a doily in the center of the table place a plant, cut 
flowers or a dish of fruit. 

7 Arrange the " covers. " "A cover" includes the 
plate, napkins, glasses, and cutlery, which are set in place for 
each individual before the meal is served. 

8 At each cover arrange the following : 

Knives at right of plate, sharp edge toward plate, forks at 
left of plate, tines up ; spoons at right of knife, bowls up. 
Napkins, plates, knives, forks, and spoons are placed half an 
inch from the edge of the table. The silver is placed in the 
order of use, the first to be used farthest from the plate. 

Napkin at left of fork with open corner toward handle of 

fork. 

Tumbler, open end up, a little to the right and half an 
inch from end of knife. 

Butter plate, a little to the left and half an inch from end 
of fork. 

Salt and pepper cellars, if individual, between tumbler 
and butter plate, if not individual, place between each two 
covers or at opposite corners of the table. 



220 



The Southern Cookbook 



Finger bowl and fruit napkin above fruit plate or on fruit 
plate with doily between and napkin above the plate. 

Place china so decorations face the person sitting at the 

table. 

POSITION OF HOST AND HOSTESS 

The end of the table farthest from the living room door 
is the head of the table, the opposite end is the foot of the 
table. The hosts sits at the head of the table and the hostess 
at the foot. 

If coffee is to be served at the table, set out the required 
number of cups and saucers. Arrange them at the left of the 
hostess's cover. Place coffee spoons on the saucers at right 
of cup, with handle of spoon and handle of cup parallel. 

The cream pitcher and sugar bowl should be placed near 
and the coffee stand at the right of the cover. 

Place serving spoons at the right of the cover, beyond 
the server's own silver. If a serving spoon is required, place 
it at the right of the cover next to the dull edge of the serv- 
ing knife. 

Two minutes before the meal is announced place the 
butter, to one side, on the butter plates and fill the glasses 
three-quarters full of cold water. 

Place a plate of cold bread either on the table or side 
table. The water pitcher should be filled and placed on a 
plate on a doily and should be left on the side table. Set an 
extra supply of butter on the side table. 

The plate marks the center of each cover. Allow from 
25 to 30 inches for each cover at the table. 

Serve hot food on warm dishes and cold food on cold 
dishes. 

When the meal is ready the waitress should quietly 
announce it to the hostess. 

To announce breakfast the waitress should either sound 
the gong or say, "Breakfast is served." To announce 
luncheon say, " Luncheon is served. " To announce dinner 
say, 4< Dinner is served. " 



The Southern Cookbook 



221 



When host or hostess is ready to serve a course the wait- 
ress should 

1 Place dish containing food in front of server' s cover. 

2 Bring in each hand, from the side table, dish in which 
food is to be served and set down, the one in the right hand 
in front of the server close to the dish containing the food. 

3 When the dish is filled, take it up with the right hand 
and set down the second plate with the left hand. 

4 Put the filled dish on serving tray and place from the 
right, in front of the person for whom it is intended ; then 
take another dish from the side table and return to the server. 

5 Take up the prepared dish and set down the other. 
Continue until all have been served. 

6 Follow this method for any course to be served at the 
table. 

7 The waitress should stand to the left of the server, 
and when there is nothing to be passed she should stand to 
the left and a little to the back of the host. 

8 If a tray is used on which to pass food, it should be 
covered with a doily. A folded napkin may be placed between 
the hand and the dish, if a tray is not used. 

9 A waitress must be very careful not to put her fingers 
over the edge into the dish she is carrying. 

10 Place food from the right, pass food to the left, and 
take away dishes from the right. When passing a tray to the 
left for a guest to help himself, be sure to hold the tray low 
enough to be reached with ease. Place the spoon in such a 
position that a spoonful may be easily taken out. 

1 1 The hostess may be served first ; the host is usually 
served last. 

12 Waitress should keep tumblers three-fourths full of 
C3ld water. Remove them from the table before refilling. 
Always place the fingers at the base of the tumbler when lift- 
ing it. 

13 When clearing the table between courses: first re- 
move all food : second, remove soiled china, glass, and silver. 



222 



The Southern Cookbook 



Remove everything relating to one course before serving 
another. Be sure to remove salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, etc., 
before serving a dessert course. 

Plates should be removed, one at a time, from the right. 
If two are removed at once, take one io each hand. Never 

PILE THE DISHES. 

Use a folded napkin and plate to free the table from 
crumbs. To crumb a table stand at right of person seated and 
crumb with right hand. If crumbs remain on table at left of 
person seated, remove them with the left hand from the left 
side. 

14 At a formal meal all food is served from " the side ; " 
i. e., butler's pantry or kitchen. When served from the pantry 
waitress may bring two plates into dining-room at one time, 
using a large tray. Set this tray on the side table and serve 
from it, using small serving trays when passing the food. 

DINING-ROOM ETIQUETTE 

1 Upon entering the dining-room all should stand 
behind their chairs and remain standing until hostess sits. 

2 Sit down from the left : rise from the right. 

3 Sit well forward in the chair. Sit straight and do not 
lean back. 

4 Do not unfold napkin or begin to eat until hostess 
does so. 

5 Do not lean arms or elbows on the table. Do not 
twist feet around the legs of the chair. 

6 When not using the knife and fork place them side by 
side, across the plate, the fork next the sharp edge of the 
knife. 

7 Do not leave spoon in the cup ; place it in the saucer 
to the right of the cup parallel to the handle of the cup. 

8 Host and hostess should see that guests are kept sup- 
plied with food. When offering a second portion never ask 
a guest if he will " have more " or another piece." It is more 
polite to say : " Will you have some tea ? " or " May I serve 



The Souther?! Cookbook 



223 



you to potato ? " or " Let me help you to this piece of meat." 

9 Host and hostess should be careful not to eat so rap- 
idly that they finish before their guests. 

10 Guests should fold their napkins loosely and leave 
them at the left of the cover. Do not place them upon the 
table until the hostess has placed hers. 

She will not do this until everyone has finished eating. 
If a guest is to be present at more than one meal, he should 
fold his napkin in the original crease and place it at the left 
of his cover. 

11 Guests must not talk to the waitress. 

12 When hostess starts to rise, the host and guest may 
do so. 

13 Leave the chairs at the table. Do not set them back 
against the wall. 

14 The hostess with the guest at her right should leave 
the dining-room first. 



INDEX 

FOWLS, ETC. 

Capon, to bone .... \ . . . 7 

Chicken, croquettes 10 

" curry 13 

" fricassee . •" 11 

" salad . 7 

" pie .... .. 12 

" to pull 12 

Duck pie , . 15 

" to boil 14 

Fowls, roasted 15 

" boiled with rice 11 

" Davenport . . . . . 12 

" forcemeat for 13 

Giblet pie . 16 

" stewed * 16 

Goose, green, pie 15 

Goose, to roast 15 

Grouse 13 

Grouse or moor-game, to pot 14 

Pheasants and partridges 9 

Pigeon broiled 16 

Pigeon in jelly ' . . 17 

Pigeon pickled 16 

Pigeon pie 18 

Pigeon potted 17 

Pigeon roast ^ 17 

Pigeon, stewed 16 

Pie, parsley 18 

Turkey to boil 8 

" to bone 7 

" to roast 9 

" patties 9 

" pulled 9 

Widgeon, duck, teel, or moor-hen, to roast 14 

FISH 

Carp, boiled . . . . 30 

Cod, crimp 31 

" curry of 31 

(15) 



226 



The Southern Cookbook 



Cod, head and shoulders .... 
" sound, boiled ......... 

" sound, ragout 

Crab, hot 

Eel boiled 

Eel broth 

Eels colored ■. 

Eels, fried 

Eel pie . . . • 

Fish, observations on dressing . . 

Fish pie . 

Haddock 

Herrings baked, or sprats .... 

" broiled ......... 

fried ., . ■ 

" to smoke ........ 

" red, to dress 

Lamprey, to stew, as at Worcester 
Lobster, a la Newberg 

" buttered 

" curry of, or prawns . . . 

" pie .- 

" to pot 2 

" salad 

" stewed, as a very high relish . . 

Mackerel . . ; . ...... 

Mackerel, to pickle, called caveach 

Maids , 

Perch and tench ...... 

Pike, to bake 

Pike, haddock, etc, stuffing for 

Plaice, an excellent way of dressing a large 

Potato pastry ........ \ . . . . 

Salmon 

" to boil •. . 

a to broil 

" to dry 

" » to pickle . .... . . . . . . \ . , .. . .... . . . . . 

" to pot . . 

Shrimp pie 

Skate, crimp . . . . 

Smelts, to fry 

Sprats - 

Soles . 



The Southern Cookbook 227 

Soles, baked, stuffing" for 29 

u cod, or turbot pie, another stuffing 29 

" Portuguese way 29 

" stewed, and carp 29 

Sturgeon, an excellent imitation 21 

Sturgeon, to dress 21 

Terrapin, to dress jo 

Thornback, or skate 21 

Turbot, to boil 22 

HARES, RABBITS, ETC. 

Hares, rabbits, etc ._ 34 

Hare, broiled and hashed 35 

" 35 

" potted 35 

" soup 33 

" to jug an old 35 

Rabbits ' 36 

" potted 36 

" to taste like hare 36 

To prepare meat or fowls, for raised pies 34 

Potting birds: an economical way 10 

PUDDINGS, ETC. 

Pudding, almond 42 

small .' 54 

" amber, a very line 43 

" a George 48 

" apricot ,.. 51 

" bread and butter ' 42 

" baked apple 43 

" brown bread 46 

" boiled bread 46 

" boiled bread, richer 46 

" batter 40 

" batter, with meat «. 47 

" baked, almond 52 

" brandy 52 

" buttermilk 53 

" carrot . . 51 

" common plain 50 

" curd, boiled 53 

" curd or puffs , 53 

" custard V 50 



228 



The Southern Cookbook 



Pudding, dutch or souster 44 

" dutch rice ... / ..... 44 

gooseberry, baked 52 

" green bean . . . • \ 52 

" in haste . ............. ........ .... 45- 

" hunters . . . . ... ... . . . . . . . 50 

" lemon 43 

" light or German 44 

" little bread . ; . .- . . 45 

" millet 51 

" new college 45 

" observations on making 55 

" orange 42 — 43 

" oat meal . 44 

Pippin 54 

" plain rice 47 

small " 47 

" potato without meat 49 

" potato, plain 51 

" quick made 55 

" rice, baked 48 

" rice, rich 50 

" rice, with fruit 48 

" Russian seed, or ground rice 55 

" Sago 42 

Shelfford . . . \, . 

" steak or kidney 49 

" snowball 49 

" suet 48 

" Yorkshire . .• ... ..... 54 

Dumplings, apple, currant or damson . . . . _ 49 

" oxford 46 

" suet 49 

" yeast, or Suffolk 55 

Pie-crust, rice 49 

Puffs, excellent light 54 

SWEET DISHES 

Apple fool -. • . 66 

Blanc mange 60 

Cream, an excellent . . 60 

" a 63 

" almond ........ .... 64 

" burnt 65 



The SoutJurn Cookbook 



229 



Cream, brandy 64 

coffee 66 

" Imperial . 63 

" lemon 60 

" snow 63 

sack 58 

" white lemon . : . ' ; . . . 60 

yellow lemon, without cream 59 

Curds and cream ... 57 — 58 

Custard, cheap and excellent 63 

" lemon 57 

" rich 64 

Flummery, rice . . . " 57 

Dutch 61 

Floating" island 59 

Froth, to set on cream, custard or trifles 59 

Gooseberry fool 66 

Honeycomb, lemon 65 

Jelly, calfs feet 61—62 

Jelly, hartshorn '62 

Jelly, orange 62 

Junket, Devonshire 58 

Milk, rice and sago 65 

Orange fool 66 

Potatoes, lent 57 

Supper dish, a pretty S 64 

Syllabub, everlasting or solid 59 

" London 58 

" Somersetshire, a very fine 58 

" Staffordshire ... 58 

Trifle, an excellent 65 

PIES AND PASTRY 

Crust, for venison pastry 40 

" an excellent short-crust 39 

" raised, for custard and fruits 39 

" " for meat-pies, fowls, etc .■ 40 

Paste, light for tarts and cheese-cakes 39 

" a less rich . . 38 

Pastry, rice . 41 

Pastry, potato 41 

Puff, German 39 

Pie, egg mince 36 

Rice puff paste , . 38 



2^0 



The Southern Cookbook 



CAKES 

Cake, observations on making - 67 

" Benton tea .......... - . 72 

another sort . . 73 

another sort as biscuit 73 

" biscuit, a ........ ~. . 74 

" cheap seed 70 

" common bread 70 

w common 71 

" cracknels _ 75 

" cracknuts _ 74 

excellent and inexpensive 69 

flat, that will keep good long in the house 73 

gingerbread •-. . . 76 

gingerbread, good, without butter 77 

hard biscuit < 73 

little white ........ 72 

" macaroons . . . . 76 

" plain and very crisp biscuit 73 

f plum . >.- . . • . . . . . . . ^ .. . -. . . . -r ■ : _ 67 

% " another ....... ......... 68 

" " very good common 72 

" " little, to keep long 73 

" pound, a good . 71 

" queen ~ . ji 

'■ rice 75 

" saffron, to eat hot with potato butter 7S 

sponge 75 

" " without butter 75 

" shrewsbun* 72 

" tea 72 

" Turnbridge . 76 

" very fine 69 

" very good common 70 

'* water 74 

" wafers > .- . 76 

" Yorkshire 79 

Buns, good, plain eaten with or without toasting and butter ... 77 

Buns, richer 77 

French bread . . 79 

Muffins ...... . 77 

Rolls, Brentford . . 78 

" excellent. 78 

" French . . . -.1 . 78 



The Southern Cookbook 231 

Rusks . •;, 74 

Short-cakes, little 103 

SWEETMEATS, ETC. 

Apricots, to dry in half 84 

" to preserve in jelly . . ' ". 84 

" to preserve green ■ . S4 

" cheese. '-'.;* . • \-,i.{ r ;. .~. . 83 

" or peaches, to brandy ... 7 83 

Apple jelly, for any sort of sweetmeats 84 

Barberries for tartlets 88 

Barberry drops 88 

Biscuit of fruit 90 

Caramel cover for sweetmeats 91 

Cheese, damson - - 89 

Cherries, to dry, with sugar 81 

" to dry, without sugar 8i 

" to dry, the best way 86 

" in brandy 83 

Cherry, jam . . . , ..... 85 

Ginger drops 88 

Gooseberry hops 91 

Gooseberry jam, for tarts 87 

Gooseberry jam, white .... 87 

Grapes, to preserve in brandy 90 

Jam, raspberry 82 

" arrowroot ; . 99 

" currant, red black 82 

" raspberry, for ices or cream 82 

" tapioca 98 

Lemon drops 89 

Lemons or oranges, to preserve in jelly 92 

Marmalade, transparent 92 

Observations on sweetmeats 80 

Orange, to prepare to to put into orange pudding 83 

" marmalade . ... 86 

chips 93 

" cakes . . . . « . '.; . . > . ' . 93 

Peppermint drops . ' 89 

Plums, magum, as a sweetmeat . . . . . 90 

Quince marmalade 86 

Raspberry cakes 82 

Sago ..... ~ '. 99 

Strawberries, to preserve whole 85 

Sweetmeat for tarts, when fruit is plentiful . 8r 



232 The Southern Cookbook 

Sugar, to clarify 80 

Stains, for jellies, ices and cake: . . . 89 

DRINKS, ETC. 

A very agreeable drink 94 

A refreshing drink 95 — q6 

Ass's milk . 100 

Ass's milk, artificial - 100 

Apple water 94 

Barley water ; . . 93—94 

Buttermilk, with or without bread 100 

Buttermilk, sweet, Dr. Borneaves 100 

Buttermilk 104 

Caudle ................ . ~ . 95 

cold 95 

rice ~ • • 95—99 

" flour . . 99 

Chocolate 97 

Coffee 98 — 109 

Coffee milk 98 

Cream, to scald 104 

Egg wine - « 97 

Lemon water . 94 

Lemonade, to be made the day before wanted .- 109 

Milk porridge . „ 95 

Milk porridge, French . . 95 

Orangeade or lemonade 94 

Orgeat . 94 

Rice, milk, ground ... 98 

Sago milk 99 

Saloop - ior 

Toast and water ... 94 

Whey ... 96 

Whey, vinegar or lemon 96 

Whey, white wine k ~. , '. ... 96 

THE HOME BREWERY 

Alder wine . . . - • • • - • ? 12 

Alder wine, white, Frontinac 112 

Ale or beer, strong 107 

Ale, very fine Welsh, to brew ~. . . 107 

Beer, ale, wine and cider, to refine 108 

Beer, table, excellent 108 

Brandy, raspberry 114 

Cherry wine . 112 



The Southern Cookbook 



Ginger wine, excellent • 1 1 1 

Imperial . 

Punch, Norfolk 

Raspberry vinegar 

Raspberry wine 

Raspberry or currant wine ...... 

Ratafia 

Shrub, white currant 

Vender or milk punch 

Wine, a rich and pleasing 

Wine, raisin, with cider 

W T ine, raisin, without cider - v . 

FOR THE SICK 

A great restorative 

A pleasant draught ....... 

Beef tea 

Broth, a clear, that will keep long- 
Broth, quick made 

Broth, calfs feet 

Chicken, broth 

Chicken, panada 

Chicken, two ways of preparing . 

Jelly, shank 

Panada, made in five minutes . . 
Veal broth, very nourishing . . .. 

SAUCES, GRAVIES, ETC. 

Butter, to melt 

Catsup, cockle 

Catsup, mushroom • . . . 

Catsup, walnut, of the finest sort 

Eggs, for pies or turtle 

Eggs, buttered , 

Gravy, veal 

Gravy, a rich . . . . 

Jelly, to cover cold fish 

Pickle, lemon 

Powder, mushroom 

Sauce, Anchovy 

Sauce, Bechamel or white 

Sauce, bread 

Sauce, Benton, for hot or cold roast beef 

Sauce, cullis or brown 

Sauce, for white fowl 



118 



234 The Southern Cookbook 

Sauce, another for ducks 122 

Sauce, egg 124 

Sauce, for carp or boiled turkey . . 122 

Sauce, for fowl or partridge 122 

Sauce, fish, a la Craster . . . 7 ... . 126 

Sauce, fish, a very fine 126 

Sauce, a good, to hide bad color of fowls 124 

Sauce, fish without butter . 123 

Sauce, lemon 124 

Sauce, liver . . . ... . . ... . . ... . . ... . . . 124 

' Sauce, lobster . ... 123 

Sauce, onion , 125, 

Sauce, oyster ................ ......... 125 

Sauce, Robart, for rump or steak 122 

Sauce, shrimp 123 

Sauce, white, easily made 12 

Vinegar, for cold fowl or meat . 122 

Vinegar, camp . . 126 

Vinegar, shallot 127 

RESPECTING THE POOR 

Caudle for the sick ' 131 

Sago ............... ..... 131 

Soup, a baked 130 

Soup, for the weakly, an excellent • 131 

DIRECTIONS TO SERVANTS 

Boards, to give a beautiful appearance 132 

Carpets and floors, to dust 136 

Carpets and floors, to clean 136 

Calico furniture, to clean 137 

Floor cloths 132 

Floor cloths, to clean 133 

Furs and woolens, to preserve from moths 137 

Gilding, to preserve and clean 135 

Irons, to preserve from rust 133 

Looking-glasses, to clean 135 

Mahogany, to give fine color to 136 

Marble, to take stains out of ... . . . 136 

Mixture for polish . 133 

Paper-hangings, to clean . 134 

Paint, to clean . . 135 

Plate, to clean . ... r~. ....... . . • '.,''**.'• 135 

Rust, to take out of steel . . . ' . . . 134 



The Southern Cookbook 



235 





• 


>tri\ T At tn r* 1 q n r^o r*lf r^T otq n n vtli (*tr* 




**\tiirc inn nillc tr\ r* 1 q n. cfnnp 




'I in r*r^\ r f^T"c 1 tt H npirfov i^r^t*i"f i i*-T^/^1"C t /\ plain 




MEATS, ETC. 




Bacon, Wiltshire, manner of curing . ......... 


. . 160 




. . 164 


Beef, cakes for side of dressed meat -. . 


• • 138 


Beef, cold, that has not been done enough, to dress 


. . 141 


Beef, cold, that has not been done enough, to dress, Cecils 


. . 141 


Beef, cold, that has not been done enough, to dre:;s Sanders . 


. . 141 


Beef, heart 


• • 143 




. . 142 


Beef, palates ...... 


■ . 138 


Beef, potted 


• 13 s — 1 39 


Beef, sirloin of, to dress the inside of ..... 


. . 140 


Beef, minced . . 


. . 141 


Beef, round of - 


. ". 142 


Bubble and squeak 


. . 144 


Calfs head, different wavs of dressing 


■' • 149 


Calf's head, fricasseed 


r 52 


Calfs head, hashed 


• - 149 




V • 152 




• • 154 




. • 154 


Collard, head 


• • 157 


Collops, cold veal or chicken 


. . 146 


Collops, dressed quick 


. . 146 




. • 145 




. . *i 4 6 




. . 147 


Cutlets, another way 


■ M5— 1 4^ 


Forcement, as for turtle, at the Bush, Bristol 


.. . 150 


Forcement, for balls or patties 










162 


Hams, to cure . . . 


. 158-159 


Hams, a method of giving a higher flavor 


• • . 159 


Hams, to dress ' . 


160 


Haricot . . . . . . ... '..'«.. \' . . . . ... . 


. : 165 


Hogs cheeses, to dry 




Hotchpotch, an excellent 


. .. 169 


Kidney . . . . ', 





236 The Southern Cookbook 

Knftckle 145 

Lamb 169 

Lamb forequarter ... 170 

Lamb, head and hinge ,170 

Lamb, steaks . 167 

Lard, hogs' 1 162 

Mutton, breast of 168 

Mutton, collops ........ ... 167 

Mutton cutlets, Portuguese way 169 

Mutton, ham 169 

Mutton, rolled loin of . . . . . . 168 

Mutton, steaks of, or lamb and cucumber 168 

Mutton, the haunch 164 

Mutton pie 166 

Mutton and potato pie .... 166 

Mutton pudding 166 

Mutton sausages 166 

Mutton steak 167 

Mutton, shoulder of, boiled with oysters 167 

Marrow bones 140 

Mock turtle 1 49-1 50-1 51 

Meat of a hog's head, to make excellent 155 

Neck, rolled . . . 163 

Ox-cheek, stew, plain , . . .• 140 

Ox-cheek, to dress 140 

Pickle, for hams, tongue or beef 163 

Pig's cheek, for boiling 156 

Pig's feet and ears, different way of dressing 158 

Pig's feet and ears, fricasseed . 158 

Pig's feet and ears, jelly of . 158 

Podovies, or meat patties 138 

Pork, to roast a leg of 157 

Pork, to boil . . . 157 

Pork, to pickle . 161 

Pork steaks 158 

Pork, roast loins and neck . ... ... 163 

Porkers head, to roast 156 

Potatoes 156 

Puddings, black 162 

Puddings, white hogs' 162 

Ragout, the . \ . . . . ..... . . ..... . . . . . . . . - 139 

Sausages 161 

Sausage, veal ..... . 154 

Sausages, excellent to eat cold . 161 



The Southern Cookbook 237 

Sausages, Spadsbury's Oxford 161 

Soup and ragout, Hessian 139 

Sorrel sauce 153 

Sucking pig, to scald 15,5 

Sucking pig, to roast 155 

Sweetbreads ." 154 

Sweetbread ragout • . 154 

Suet to preserve a twelvemonth 142 

Tongue and udder, roast 142 

Tongue, to pickle for boiling 143 

Tongue, stewed . . 144 

Tongue, an excellent mode to eat cold 144 

Tripe 144 

Veal, leg of H4 

V eal, breast of . 1 48 

Veal, breast of, rolled . . . ..... 148 

Veal, or chicken, with ham, to pot 147 

Veal, shoulder of I4 8 

Veal, patties 153 

Veal, olives .......................... 153 

SOUPS 

A la sap 176 

An excellent , 173 

Carrot - 173 

Crawfish ~- y , 1 76 

Giblet $ 171 

Gravy 1 72 

Hare i75 

Onion 174 

Ox-rump . . . . .... ..' ■ 1 76 

Pea, old , 171 

Pea, green ^2 

Portable, very useful 177 

Scotch, leek .... ..... 175 

Scotch, mutton 175 

Spinach J75 

Turnip ,7! 

Vegetable .-. 174 

White, a rich 173 

White, a plainer J73 



238 



The Southern Cookbook 



PICKLES 



Cabbage, red . . , 19 o 

Cucumbers, pickled sliced . 188 

Cucumbers, young . 18S 

English bamboo, to pickle - J87 

India pickle ....... 186 

Melon mangoes . 187 

Mushrooms, to pickle to preserve the flavor 189 

Nasturtiums, for capers " 189 

Onions and cucumbers, sliced 188 

Onions, pickled 1S8 

Walnuts, to pickle 189 

VEGETABLES 

Beans, to preserve French, to eat in winter 178 

Cabbage, red, stewed 181 

Carrots, stewed, 182 

Cauliflower in white sauce 181 

Celery, stewed 181 

Cucumbers, to stew . . . . T 191 

Mushrooms, stewed 182 

Mushrooms, to dry 182 

Onions, roasted - . 191 

Onions, stewed 191 

Parsnips, to mash 178 

Peas, green, to keep 178 

Peas, green to stew 191 

Peas, stewed, old 179 

Potatoes, to boil - r ; . 180 

Potatoes, to broil 180 

Potatoes, to roast 180 

Potatoes, to fry . . . . . 180 

Potatoes, to mash 181 

Spinach, ... . . 181 

Spinach, French way 181 

Sorrel, stewed, for Fricandeau, and roast meat . . - 182 

Vegetables, to boil green 179 

OYSTERS 

Oysters, fried, to garnish boiled fish 197 

Oysters, to pickle 196 

Oysters, to stew 196 

Oysters, scalloped . ... 196 

Oyster patties, or small pies 196 



The Southern Cookbook 239 

MISCELLANEOUS 

Anchovies, to keep when the liquor dries 184 

Bacon, F raise 38 

Browning - , to color and flavor made dishes 1S4 

Butter, to clarify to 

Capers, to keep ...... 184 

Cheese, to pot . . . 102 

Cheese, to roast 102 

Cornish pics 32 

Cream cheese 105 

Cream cheese mush 105 — ic6 

Dairy, the 103 

Eggs, to poach 103 

Forcemeat for patties, balls or stuffing 193 

Gravy, clear 177 

Gravy that will keep a week, to draw 177 

Kitchen pepper _ 1S3 

Lemon mince pies 195 

Mawskin, to cure for rennet . 104 

Menus i 198 — 218 

Mince pie 194 

Mincemeat pies, without meat 194 

Mustard, to make 185 

Omelet ' 37 

Orange butter 192 

Patties, fried 193 

Patties, lobster _ . . . . 193 

Patties, oyster v 193 

Patties resembling mince pies 194 

Patties, sweet ; N 194 

Potato pie 32 

Ramekins 38 

Rice, buttered 37 

Rice boiled to eat wtth curry or roast meat 37 

Rice, savory 37 

Salads, French 179 

Salads, lobster i$ Q 

Small dishes for supper, etv. 179 

Sprats, to make taste like anchovies 184 

Table setting, general rules . . 219 

Vinegar, gooseberry I( S3 

Vinegar, sugar . . ^2 

Vinegar, wine 183 

When the stomach will not receive meat ior 

Yeast, to make IO r — 102 

Yeast, to preserve 102 



OCT 28 1912 



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